F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Sourcing Engine Oil Australia

 
  #41  
Old 01-23-2019, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JIMLIGHTA View Post
The take-away is don't confuse the manufacturer's best interest with your best interest. Light weight oil might cause excessive wear.
Which is why I use and recommend 5W-20 in the hot Oz climate, 0W-20 simply doesn't make sense in Oz except maybe in the alpine regions and in southern Tassie.
 
  #42  
Old 01-23-2019, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR View Post
Which is why I use and recommend 5W-20 in the hot Oz climate, 0W-20 simply doesn't make sense in Oz except maybe in the alpine regions and in southern Tassie.
40% off penrite at supercheap

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...=en_AU&start=3
 
  #43  
Old 01-23-2019, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
Yep, I would be getting one or two bottles if I didn't already have four full 5 litre bottles of the Nulon 5W-20.
 
  #44  
Old 01-23-2019, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR View Post
Yep, I would be getting one or two bottles if I didn't already have four full 5 litre bottles of the Nulon 5W-20.
yep just bought 2 5L penrite 5w20 for use now being summer

will use my 0w20 for winter oil change

also need atf for my quick jack

good savings
 
  #45  
Old 01-24-2019, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR View Post
Which is why I use and recommend 5W-20 in the hot Oz climate, 0W-20 simply doesn't make sense in Oz except maybe in the alpine regions and in southern Tassie.
The 5W in 5W-20 is only the start-up weight. The 20 is the oil weight at operating temperature.

I use Redline 5W-25 by mixing 3 qts of 20 weight and 3 qts of 30 weight, but I am going to switch to pure 5W-30 at my next oil change.

Another critical thing is to change your oil frequently regardless of the advertised lifespan of the oil. Synthetic 10,000+ mile oil changes are designed to shorten engine life so manufacturers can sell more cars. It doesn't matter what kind of oil you put in, it gets soot soaked and builds up pulverized metal particles at the same time.

You are better off using cheap conventional oil and changing it every 1,500 miles then expensive oil every 10,000 miles. The filter can be changed at the recommended interval because oil filters to absolutely nothing to prevent wear, they only catch 20+ micron particles. 1 micron particles are what do harm, and the only way to remove them is to change the oil.
 

Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; 01-24-2019 at 02:36 AM.
  #46  
Old 01-24-2019, 02:50 AM
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Don't worry Jimbo, I change the oil and filter every 6 months which is around every 3,000 miles these days for me.
Cheap insurance.
 
  #47  
Old 01-25-2019, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR View Post
Which is why I use and recommend 5W-20 in the hot Oz climate, 0W-20 simply doesn't make sense in Oz except maybe in the alpine regions and in southern Tassie.
As JIMLIGHTA indicates, if you want better protection at normal operating temps you should go to a 0W-30 or 5W-30. The 5W-20 offers no higher viscosity at high temperatures than the 0W-20.
 

Last edited by Unhingd; 01-25-2019 at 09:26 AM.
  #48  
Old 01-25-2019, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd View Post
As JIMLIGHTA indicates, if you want better protection at normal operating temps you should go to a 0W-30 or 5W-30. The 5W-20 offers no higher viscosity at high temperatures than the 0W-20.
Yep. Another thing everyone should do is permenantly disable engine auto stop/start. Draining the oil at every stoplight then restarting is another way manufacturers embrace the green movement to wear-out cars faster.
 
  #49  
Old 01-29-2019, 06:10 PM
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Looking at diy'ing my brake bleed too as that's part of the 3 year service, seems easy enough with one of these

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/prod...pean-vehicles/

Jag recommend the castrol srf for the ceramics, but i'd just use the motul rbf600 like i do on all my other ccb cars - it's a quarter of the price
 
  #50  
Old 01-30-2019, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
Looking at diy'ing my brake bleed too as that's part of the 3 year service, seems easy enough with one of these

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/prod...pean-vehicles/

Jag recommend the castrol srf for the ceramics, but i'd just use the motul rbf600 like i do on all my other ccb cars - it's a quarter of the price
Unless bleeding the brakes on our cars is a different procedure than has been the norm for decades why would you not just employ the help of a friend to pump the brakes while you bled the system? Just curious, not being judgmental.
 
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Old 01-30-2019, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fujicoupe View Post
Unless bleeding the brakes on our cars is a different procedure than has been the norm for decades why would you not just employ the help of a friend to pump the brakes while you bled the system? Just curious, not being judgmental.
Some of us don't have any friends!

 
  #52  
Old 01-30-2019, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd View Post
Some of us don't have any friends!
I resemble that remark, but neighborhood kids are cheap.
 
  #53  
Old 01-30-2019, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fujicoupe View Post
I resemble that remark, but neighborhood kids are cheap.
lol
 
  #54  
Old 01-30-2019, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fujicoupe View Post
Unless bleeding the brakes on our cars is a different procedure than has been the norm for decades why would you not just employ the help of a friend to pump the brakes while you bled the system? Just curious, not being judgmental.
I was about to say the same thing, but then I realised that bleeding the system yourself is very labour intensive especially if you don't have a helper.
All four corners need to be jacked up and all four wheels removed and refitted (either one at a time or each end at a time, rear end first), then you may have to do it all over again to fully bleed the system of air after adding the new fluid, then there is the mucking about with the bleed nipples and the fluid reservoir.
Been there done that many times, yes it's no different/harder on a Jag than on other cars (although Dom has the CCBs which might complicate things somehow), but it is still very labour intensive and if an extraction pump can be bought for not too many $ then it makes sense for the "less nimble" (coff) or time short DIYer.
 
  #55  
Old 01-30-2019, 07:02 PM
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i have a quickjack, so getting the car up and bleeding isn't a big deal, will be good excuse to use it

using the motiv pressure bleeder it's pretty easy, but yes does take time (more so on ccb's as all 4 calipers have 2 bleeders each) - pushing the pedal is an old school way of doing it, and not needed anymore

for me it's just another excuse to spend some time unwinding in my aircon garage doing car stuff lol

i bought this to do oil change, been spending some time online watching the review/diy vids. i've always been that drain plug guy, but with more cars having top mount filters and integrated extraction tubes now, these make more sense

https://mityvac.com.au/product/mityv...vacuator-plus/
 

Last edited by domino_z; 01-30-2019 at 07:08 PM.
  #56  
Old 03-11-2019, 09:18 PM
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ended up doing this oil change the old fashioned way

the first mityvac i bought from aussie importer wasn't holding pressure, after pumping multiple times the oil just kept falling back into the engine

contacted the seller and they shipped me another one, very good service, but same story with the second unit
 
  #57  
Old 03-11-2019, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
ended up doing this oil change the old fashioned way

the first mityvac i bought from aussie importer wasn't holding pressure, after pumping multiple times the oil just kept falling back into the engine

contacted the seller and they shipped me another one, very good service, but same story with the second unit
Are you twisting the valve between the hose and tank as soon as the vac starts sucking air? Also place the tank on ground level as the siphon will work with the vacuum to speed the process.
 
  #58  
Old 03-11-2019, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
ended up doing this oil change the old fashioned way

the first mityvac i bought from aussie importer wasn't holding pressure, after pumping multiple times the oil just kept falling back into the engine

contacted the seller and they shipped me another one, very good service, but same story with the second unit
I bought a cheapish (I guess Chinese) oil extraction vacuum pump off Fleabay a few months ago but none of the three supplied tubes fitted tight in the car's oil extraction tube. Two of them were too big to go inside the tube but too small to go around the outside and the other one went inside the tube but way too loose to make a vacuum seal. Without a decent vacuum seal the pump cannot work. I MacGyvered up a solution though - a spare 8 mm plastic vacuum connector cap had lying around fitted perfectly over the top of the car's extraction tube, so I drilled a hole in the other end of it the right size so that one of the pump's tubes fitted nice and tight into it. The pump then worked OK but not brilliantly, long story short when I thought I had all the old oil out there was in fact some 3/4 of a litre left behind.
Point is, for one of these oil extraction pumps to work properly you need a nice tight seal between the pump tube and the car's oil extraction tube to create a vacuum and my guess is that none of the tubes that were supplied with your Mityvac were the right size to do this. Either buy some more tubing of the right size (8 mm internal diameter) or cobble up a connector like I did.

Edit - I just played around with the tubes and connectors that came with my el cheapo pump, and discovered that one of the connectors on one of the thinner tubes fits over the car's oil extraction tube "sort of" tight. Not real tight, just a little loose, but enough to make some sort of a seal. But as long as I kept it pressed down while pumping the pump worked a charm although I didn't test right to the end, I only pumped out some 200 ml of oil. If I didn't keep it pressed down the pump didn't work, maybe this was your problem Dom?
 

Last edited by OzXFR; 03-11-2019 at 10:51 PM.
  #59  
Old 03-12-2019, 12:40 AM
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i tried all the tricks i saw on youtube, it just wasn't working

tbh i cannot see how the container can hold vacuum as it's not properly sealed - the drain plug isn't air tight, and the release valve was loose on both

when i push down on the pump i could hear air escaping, and even feel it around the valve that you use to select suck/blow, but this was same in all the videos i watched too

the thicker supplied hose fits perfectly on the oe extraction tube, that wasn't the issue.

i even tried sucking water out of a bucket with the hose submerged and it still didn't work

so cliffs: i have no idea

this is a great video to show how the mityvac is meant to work, but just didn't for me......twice lol

 

Last edited by domino_z; 03-12-2019 at 12:43 AM.
  #60  
Old 03-12-2019, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
Looking at diy'ing my brake bleed too as that's part of the 3 year service, seems easy enough with one of these

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/prod...pean-vehicles/

Jag recommend the castrol srf for the ceramics, but i'd just use the motul rbf600 like i do on all my other ccb cars - it's a quarter of the price
I have the Motive Power Bleeder, It works great. I used to use ATE Superblue fluid every other change so you can see the difference in color and know when you have all the gold colored ATE out of the line. I have not changed the fluid on the F-type yet.
 

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