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Sourcing Engine Oil Australia

 
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:26 AM
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Hi guysWhat is everyone in Aus doing to source the 0w20 Castrol Edge Professional

The dealer won't sell it, it's not available retail, and you can't import oil from o/s afaik

Surely i'm missing something, as this oil is used across most of the JLR products, and i doubt every one is going to the dealer for engine oil changes
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:54 AM
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Have you noticed that the Owners Handbook says 0W-20 but the engine oil cap says 5W-20?



In other threads here, it has been mentioned that the JLR 51.522 specification has been superseded by Ford spec WSS-M2C947A or M2C945A. One of those specs is for 0W-20 oil, the other is for 5W-20.

Can you find an oil that meets those numbers? I did (in the USA).
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:00 PM
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My MY18 manual says to use 5W-20 if 0W-20 isn't available.
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:08 PM
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Dom,
I have used Penrite 5W-20 and Nulon 5W-20 full synthetic in both my XFR and F-Type for several years now without a single problem. They both meet the JLR spec for the 5.0 and 3.0 supercharged petrol engines.
By sheer coincidence I'm changing the oil on the F-Type tomorrow using the Nulon 5W-20, this one: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...re/348774.html
As I have explained elsewhere 0W-20 is really more suitable for cold climates, much colder than where I am in South Oz, and 5W-20 is plenty good enough if not preferable to 0W-20 in my case.
Yes, I get it from Supercheap Auto and I wait until it is going on sale when I can usually get it for 30% off, and right now I have five x five litre bottles sitting in the shed, enough for the next three oil changes. I change the oil and filter every six months as 95% of my driving is very short trips.
For our 'murican friends, Supercheap Auto is the largest chain of auto parts stores in Oz and it caters mainly for the low end of the market, but it still has gear suitable for the F-Type.
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:36 PM
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Thanks guys

my oil cap says 0w20 as per owners manual - late December 2015 build R

i saw liqui moly now do a JLR spec oil in 0w20, but itíll be a while before this hits shelves, and then makes it way down to us in Aus

Iíll check out those 5w20 suggestions, thanks mate

if I search Castrol local page there is a phone number under engine oil, so I might give them a call now

my car is out of warranty, so im finally out of the dealer service web and can do my own maintenance
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:43 PM
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ok i rang castrol, it can be purchased through a castrol distributor in 20L drum

part number is #3417791

there is no other castrol oil recommended for this motor
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:58 PM
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Dom, now that the car is out of warranty and you intend to DIY the simple stuff like oil changes it makes no economic sense to buy the Castrol brew (unless you can get it for under $10 per litre which I doubt), just go with the Nulon 5W-20 I posted up and save yourself a heap of money and hassle.
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR View Post
Dom, now that the car is out of warranty and you intend to DIY the simple stuff like oil changes it makes no economic sense to buy the Castrol brew (unless you can get it for under $10 per litre which I doubt), just go with the Nulon 5W-20 I posted up and save yourself a heap of money and hassle.
I use 3qts Redline 5W-20 and 3 quarts Redline 5W-30, for an overall viscousity of 5W-25. As soon as I started the engine on Redline, it ran smoother and sounds better. Similar to my other cars. I buy Redline in 12qt boxes from Amazon. I don't recommend using cheap manufacturer oils for the masses as they are not good lubricants. Pinch them with your fingers and feel the difference. Cheap oils like Castrol, Penzoil Platinum, and Mobil 1 feel suprisingly gritty, Redline feels like butter.
 

Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; 01-13-2019 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR View Post
Dom, now that the car is out of warranty and you intend to DIY the simple stuff like oil changes it makes no economic sense to buy the Castrol brew (unless you can get it for under $10 per litre which I doubt), just go with the Nulon 5W-20 I posted up and save yourself a heap of money and hassle.
yeh even in 20L drum, it's an odd size, as the car uses 7-7.3L, i'll only be able to do 2 changes and have left over

plus i cbf storing a 20L drum of oil

where are you buying the filter/gasket/drain plug from

i have one kit i bought ages ago from an o/s vendor as i had some store credit
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:46 PM
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this is the Liqui Moly 0w20 specifically for JLR

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/press/...over-2649.html
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
yeh even in 20L drum, it's an odd size, as the car uses 7-7.3L, i'll only be able to do 2 changes and have left over

plus i cbf storing a 20L drum of oil

where are you buying the filter/gasket/drain plug from

i have one kit i bought ages ago from an o/s vendor as i had some store credit
Dom,
I usually buy the oil filter from Rock Auto (in the US), they have a big range of them remembering that the exact same oil filter fits every single AJ126 and AJ133 ever made, so no need to get the "F-Type" version, pretty much any US XF or XJ or XK one will also be OK.
I just get whichever one of the "quality" brands is going cheapest at the time (I haven't risked one of their budget versions), such as Wix, Mann, and Mahle.
But the last one I got (going in tomorrow) I found by chance on Fleabay and it was the whole kit and caboodle, genuine JLR, for less than the normal price of the filter only. By whole kit and caboodle I mean the filter (with sealing ring), the cannister and the base that the cannister screws into. That way I will have a spare cannister and base if ever I should need one.
As for the sump/drain plug I just re-use the OEM one, there is no need to renew that plug despite what the manual says.
It has a built in rubber gasket that doesn't deteriorate, unlike some old fashioned sump plugs that use copper crush washers that must be replaced, so just check that the gasket is OK and hasn't been pinched by some ham fisted grease monkey at the dealership.
 

Last edited by OzXFR; 01-13-2019 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:22 PM
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edit - seems image attachment doesn't work on this forum

i have oil drain bolt, filter, sealing ring and oil cap remover
 

Last edited by domino_z; 01-13-2019 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
edit - seems image attachment doesn't work on this forum

i have oil drain bolt, filter, sealing ring and oil cap remover
Sometimes you can't add an image to a quick reply, and have to "Go Advanced" to attach an image.

 
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd View Post
Sometimes you can't add an image to a quick reply, and have to "Go Advanced" to attach an image.
Or else just quote a post.
 
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Old 01-14-2019, 06:04 PM
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i received a service reminder from dealer

inquired as to cost and what's involved in this 3rd year service - brake fluid and engine oil change

$940

crazy

OzXFR any reason you chose to go nulon over penrite
 

Last edited by domino_z; 01-14-2019 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 01-14-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
i received a service reminder from dealer

inquired as to cost and what's involved in this 3rd year service - brake fluid and engine oil change

$940

crazy

OzXFR any reason you chose to go nulon over penrite
Dom,
Yep, $900 is a joke and yes the brake fluid is due to be changed after three years.
You can DIY all of that for $140 tops:
- around $75 for the oil
- around $40 for the oil filter
- around $20 for two 500 ml bottles of Super DOT4 brake fluid (I use Nulon).
Changing the brake fluid is no big deal, the brakes on the F-Type are simple garden variety floating caliper brakes just like you find on econoboxes, just a bit bigger.
You can gravity bleed the brakes or you can pump the old fluid out using the brake pedal.
If you're not confident doing it yourself then any brake shop can do it in a jiffy for not a lot of $, maybe $100 max. It would also look better in the service records as opposed to DIY, same with the oil & filter change, just buy the oil and filter yourself and take them to a decent workshop to get it done.
I changed to Nulon engine oil for a number of reasons - the Penrite 5W-20 became a bit harder to find, Penrite changed their base stock a few years ago to an inferior type and started to get some poor reviews, Nulon is high grade, gets good reviews, is readily available, is reasonably cheap, and is an Aussie brand. What's not to like!
 
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Old 01-14-2019, 06:52 PM
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i have the ceramics, but yeh i'll just get my local workshop i use to do it and stamp the book

the nulon you're using, i looked online and couldn't find where it said it met the JLR spec
 
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
i have the ceramics, but yeh i'll just get my local workshop i use to do it and stamp the book

the nulon you're using, i looked online and couldn't find where it said it met the JLR spec
Whoops, I forgot you had ceramics!
The back of the bottle of Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-20 says (among other things) "Meets and exceeds the following specifications for vehicle manufacturers: Ford WSS M2C 945A".
The Workshop Manual says:
"Engine Oil - Vehicles built up to 2015: SAE 5W20 WSS-M2C925-A or SAE 0W20 STJLR.51.5122
Engine Oil - Vehicles built from 2015: SAE 0W20 STJLR.51.5122"
945A is the replacement for 925A which was discontinued a few years ago and STJLR.51.5122 is just JLR stuffing around with a new name for the same oil as 945A, a transparent ploy to get you to pay for the special Castrol Unobtainium brew from the dealership at around three times the price of other perfectly suitable oils such as Nulon coz AFAIK nothing else specifically meets STJLR.51.5122.
I'm sticking with the Nulon, I have been using it for two years now in the F-Type with zero engine problems and surely if it was no good (and especially with my tuned V6) some sort of problem would have shown up by now.
After all that, I just finished the oil & filter change plus two new air filters on the F-Type, took me five hours (I am very slow and meticulous), and I'm pooped!

Edit - from a quick search it seems there are quite a few oils besides the Castrol brew that meet the STJLR.51.5122 spec, see here for example: https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/motor-oil/stjlr-51-5122
But they are all 0W-20 and it seems that spec only applies to 0W-20 oils.

Edit 2 - based on the import price quoted by Dom for the Castrol brew try 5 or 6 times the price (of the Nulon). A complete and utter rip off.
 

Last edited by OzXFR; 01-15-2019 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:36 PM
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ok i follow the logic, and i agree this 'spec' is all bs, especially out of the warranty period

it's not unlike manufacturer spec tyres these days, with dealers trying to lock you into buying tyres through them instead of going to market

nulon 5w20 it is then, thanks for the help mate
 
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
ok i follow the logic, and i agree this 'spec' is all bs, especially out of the warranty period

it's not unlike manufacturer spec tyres these days, with dealers trying to lock you into buying tyres through them instead of going to market

nulon 5w20 it is then, thanks for the help mate
Also, check out the Nulon web site where it shows that the 5W-20 meets Ford WSS-M2C-945A:

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/fu...ing-engine-oil

(click on Specifications)
 

Last edited by OzXFR; 01-14-2019 at 08:42 PM.

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