I have had my 2016 F Type and have always wanted a spouler. I asked the Parts Mgr to order one for the SVR and was told i had to buy the whole car.....
The just before XMAS 2018, at the dealer holiday party I saw a 2019 on the lot that had a spoiler, and the Parts Mgr said "i'm sure it will fit, but in ordering parts they go by your cars vin, thinking they are just replacement. So since my car did not come with one, they would not ship it, plus it would probably be at least $5,000."

Well that is not a good enough answer for me, so I kept looking. Then by accident i found a listing by Sacramento Jaguar (I live in San Diego) where with a simple click and no vin number required I could buy what I wanted for $1,400 plus shipping of $65. This was because it is now an accessory in their catalog.

Without hesitation in one click I bought myself the spoiler I had wanted all that time, and being original Jaguar equipment, it was a late XMAS gift to myself that be the best ever received. (I always know what I want for XMAS, usually just cant afford it)

The spoiler comes ready to paint, with all parts to install on your car without any mods at all, and yes you guys, no mechanical knowledge required...LOL
It took me about an hour to put on first time and that was because i got two left pieces instead of a pair, so i had to grind off welded in bolts and replace with standard ones. (In the pics you will see, they are the ones that look rusty, and yes they looked like that when i pulled them out of my junk bolts bin)

The best part about this spoiler kit is, it also solves the problem of how to disable the lifting. That is done by removing the old wind deflector with the lifter motors still attached. First you must remove the old deflector, and to do this you push the button to raise the deflector and put it into cleaning mode.
Then you will see it is attached by about 12 bolts. You can buy the 6 point security bits for the ratchet at AutoZone. You get a set of 5 different sizes for $14.99. Dont think that bit is a Jaguar special tool.

After you undo all of the bolts, you lift the deflector high enough to undo an electrical connector for the lifting motor and remove 2 slide on tab grounds. And waah-laah, deflector and lifting mechanism off.

Electrical connector to undo.

Slide on ground tabs to remove on each side



In the kit. Jaguar provides you with a duplicate black plate, and 2 pieces to bolt to it. This provides the 2 holes on each side that using 2 bolts inserted from the inside of the deck lid will attach the spoiler to the car.

This is the replacement black plate attached to the car

This is the piece attached on each side with holes to attach spoiler. This is also what i had to fix because I didnt get a pair.

The spoiler is basically a cap cover that sits on top of that plate. I thought it would be just the raised spoiler piect with legs that would require holes to attach. No, Jaguar made this as one piece, so it replaces the entire lifting piece.



Next you set this ontop of place, carefully raise the hatch so you can get to inside of door. The using the 2 little access holes covered with a rubber piece, remove the covers, and install 2 bolts on each side that actually attach spoiler to hatch door...and your done.... oh, and they provide you with another set of emblems (flat cat as I call it, and Jaguar word) to put onto new spoiler.

Cant be any easier than that, and if you want to swap, its about 10 mins and 2 tools to do.

 

Here are the step by step instructions


















Notice my build project next it car. Thats why i wanted spoiler




PS. better pic of project car without cover



NOW I HAVE NEW LOVE IN MY LIFE. SUPRISED I (A GIRL) AM BUILDING THIS? POWERED BY CADDY NORTHSTAR.

 

I think the F-Type looks better with the fixed spoiler. Luckily, mine came out of the factory like it.

 

Well done Diane!
Just one small tip for others - when you first fit the new spoiler using the four bolts as shown in graphic # 12, don't do them up tight just yet.
Do them up little more than finger tight then lower the hatch all the way, check for fit and alignment of the new spoiler and wiggle/nudge it around as required, then when you are happy with the fit raise the hatch and do up the bolts firmly. This process may take a few raise and lowers of the hatch before you achieve an optimal fit.
Edit - Diane, check out your pic in this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post2059819
The spoiler is definitely sitting a tad right of centre, with a small gap on the RHS and a much bigger gap on the LHS.
Just loosen those four bolts a bit and nudge the spoiler a gnat's wotsit over to the left then retighten the bolts and Bob's your uncle!

 

You're building a replica Countach? Any plans or details you want to share about that project?

 

Sure later. My phone is not happy now. Ive tried 3 times to start a reply, and it lays down.

 

Diane, any specific reason you are going with a Northstar V8 as the donor motor? I have not heard great things about that motor family...

https://oppositelock.kinja.com/where...tar-1802196966

 

Great post, Diane! Complete, concise, useful, with plenty of pics and descriptions! Others should use this post as a model...

 

Well thank you FullChat. I tried to make it simple, but easy to understand. Sone people as the visual kind.

Diane

 

XXAARRAA, The choice of the northstar comes from the fact it is an light weight aluminum engine, but mainly because in California they require a Specially Constructed Vehicle has a transplanted power plant of both engine and trans together. The smog god (Bureau of Automotive supervisor in the area) was the person I took the Fiero to for smog after i bought it. It failed, and i told him i wasnt going to put a penny into a car i was going to strip down to the shell for the build project. His reply was, you want your pink slip dont you? You wont get it until it passes. He did have a point.

So i made the lucky choice and changed the catalytic converter, and took it back to him and it passed. We sat and talked for a while about the build and i mentioned that my mom had a jag xj12 and i heard the 12 cyl matched up with a porsche transaxle real well. He then very sternly said "engine and trans together". I said what? He then said, listen to me carefully, i dont want you coming back here afterwards and i have to tell you to start over and you,'re crying.... Engine and trans together.

So since it is a rear engine car, and the northstar is a front wheel drive setup, it work perfectly if just aits in the car backwards. I drove a 96 deville for a couple of years, so i could get used to its abilities. And yes, being aluminum, you just have to make sure it never has a reason to run hot or overheats. That results in head bolts getting stripped. The northstar provides lots of power, considering those deville's are tanks, and yet the still get around 25 mpg pushing that tank around. For this car, i will probably have to fill frame rails with weight to keep it on the road, at about 45 mpg.

My dad wanted tonuse this buick 215 (again aluminum 8 cyl) we have had in the garage ever since it was to go into the pinto i had in the late 70's. The 215 also was rear wheel drive, so it wouldnt work. The northstar bevsme the number 1 choice, but they were the most expensive option.

I found a junkyard in carlsbad that advertised a northstar - running with minor crash dsmage on front corner for $1600 and they would pull it. I went up wiith the cash and explained to the owner about my project, and told him i needed the engine, trans axles, steering column, instrument panel, gas tank, engine cradle, and every sensor, module and computer, including all the wiring harnesses on car. He didnt believe me and quoted me a price of $2300 complete. When i returned he tpld me i had to pull all but engine, trans and axles myself. He didnt have any idea i grew up in a junkyard. He then watched me pull everything on the hottest weekend in california history. I damn near stripped the car, all that was left were the seats, door panels, trunk lid snd hood. As i left on the finsl trip, he called me a "ringer". More of the story later.




Diane

 

Thank you Diane.

Few things for those following along at home:

Part number for the entire F type fixed rear spoiler kit is T2R19419LML. It is available from several sources online. Mine came to $1,315.60 shipped.

Full installation instructions available here: http://accessories-instructions.jagu...f?201991955210

Since some folks (myself included) might not have these sitting around in the toolbox, I will just point out that it is actually a 5 point T27 bit.

Spoiler is still away getting painted for somewhere between $400 and $500 so that is currently all I've got to add.

 

Hi I bought the brackets that fit in to mount the spoiler in from underneath but it won’t sit down flush! Is the tray that sits in and fixes down with the ts27 bit different from the active spoiler compared to the fixed spoiler?? Thanks

 

Yes. Metal tray is different between the motorized spoiler and the fixed spoiler. As shown in instructions, a few parts are scavenged from the motorized tray and reinstalled on the fixed tray.

Photos are how my install turned out.

 

The fixed spoiler finishes off the back of the car nicely (IMO). I'm so glad I found a used car that had one fitted.

 

thanks for the reply I really appreciate it. I have spoke to jaguar in the uk and the part has been discontinued over here would you know where I could get it from in the states?

thanks again hope you can help

 

I purchased the entire fixed spoiler kit, Jaguar # T2R19419LML. I don't know if the required mounting plate is available for purchase as an individual item.

 

Just curious, if you bought one with the spoiler wing delivered that way from the factory, can you remove it and go back to the traditional one that moves up and down?

 

You'd need the raising and lowering mechanism, and possibly a recode to let the car know what it's now got. But if you got the fixed spoiler from the factory (like I did!) why would you want to go back to the ugly deployable one?

 

I installed this and did not need to have any software updates done. The module simulates the deployable spoiler signals so it all "just works." I suspect that going the other way would be as simple, but you'd need all the bits.

EDIT: I think the instructions did note something about a software update but that was unnecessary in my case.

 

that s mine