This is indeed one of the definitions of power. The relevant one, however, is the one Ftype17 quoted - the product of torque and angular velocity. This is the power that car manufacturers (and everyone else) quotes - the power from the engine, not the overall system power, which would depend on weight, powertrain losses, traction, wind, etc. - a lot of uncontrolled variables. (A robust accounting would have to factor in energy transferred to the tires and road surface as heat, to the surrounding air as heat and turbulence, etc.)

 

Totally agree. Horsepower commonly quoted is shaft horsepower, which allows one to easily compare primary engines using rough approximations, like rpm as a proxy for actual speed. There are too many examples to mention where this kind of kludge results in a lighter slower car being rated as more powerful.

That's not really relevant to a topic like this, though, where we are really talking true power or time required to move mass x some distance y.

AWD is a good example of laying down more power in some tests. No one would argue that AWD changes shaft horsepower, same for adding electric motors or applying a flywheel spun up under braking, like some newer Le Mans cars. But these features do increase power if they decrease time to distance.

It's too Neanderthal an understanding of power to believe only adding shaft horsepower can make a car move faster.

 

The topic here was adjusting throttle sensitivity (with a so called Sprintbooster), and if that increased power or not, or made the car go faster or not - and where the majority (all minus one) says a big NO to that.

 

See what I mean.

 

NOOOOOH! Tell me this is not happening, AGAIN!

 

What? The OP noted the thing is astonishingly good. What's WRONG with that? Do I sense tuner employees?

 

I think your senses are a bit off....

 

Food fight, and I wasn't invited?

 

Of course he did, such devices tend to fool people into thinking their car is faster as before at 50% throttle the car was getting 50%, whereas with such a device he gets 100%, so many are easily fooled until they press the throttle past 50% and the car goes no faster as it was already at 100%

I like a linear pedal or as you would say laggy pedal, I don't need an on/off switch for a gas pedal or an over-sensitive pedal particular whilst trying to hold car stable mid corner at the limit. Then when I do need to race I can go WOT 100% throttle in sub 0.1s like any other able person and as such a sprint booster is not for me, it would not make my car faster and it would only shorten my pedal travel which I most definitely do not want.


P.S. I've had a sprint booster, as when I was young and wet behind the ears I fell for such snake oil, installed it and a few days later removed it, WASTE OF MONEY!

 

**** Off-topic ****

I would like to know how Ferrari have been able to upgrade their F1 engines in such a short period of time this season?

 

Thats the point. Faster to 100% is a faster car. If it saves a tenth, and I suspect it saves more given the stock dampening is pretty high according to VAP, that's an enormous advantage over stock power. Do you know how expensive it is to lose a tenth at this power level? Maybe he understands more than you do. I would like to know how a car can "feel" faster without actually being faster. Acceleration is the only thing you can feel.

 

There is no stock dampener and there is no tenth of a second to gain. The only "gain" is increased throttel sensitivity, which on a rather powerfull car is not nesessarely positiv. Some like some more sensitivity than standard, and some dont. On the F-type you can also chose sensitivity (dynamic mode increases sensitivity for the first half travel of the throttle, winter mode decreases it).

But the car won't be any faster/stronger/more powerfull.

Stop the BS and stop twisting what other people say. You are in best case trolling/scamming, or worst case a fraud.

 

This is becoming again an idiotic thread.

Here's once again what this gizmo is all about....

The accelerator pedal is connected to a potentiometer (a variable resistor). Let's say that it can rotate 190 degrees from end to end (0 to 100% pedal down).
The response is linear, for every degree there is an exact variation in resistance. This is how the pedal position sensor works. The ECU reads it and opens the throttle according to the programmed map.

This BS gizmo, gets in between the position sensor (potentiometer) and the connector. It reads the input from the sensor and it relays what it is programmed to do. It reads a map that will tell it that when it reads X ohms (lets say 10 degrees of pedal pressure) it will instead relay 20% to the ECU. It CANNOT ever feed more than 100% of what the sensor range is set for. Therefore, if you just FLOOR the pedal, you render this completely useless NO MATTER WHAT.

Please STOP this nonsense. This BS was around when GM wanted to keep emissions under control in certain big V8 and the ECU slowed down opening the throttle. This however was done at te ECU level. No matter what kind of BS gadget you put inline with the pedal position sensor, the resulting signal can only max out at 100% of the expected resistance. STOP PLEASE. Go peddle this nonsense elsewhere

 

Nah na na no. Pedals implement dampening software. That's what you're missing.

 

Now you are completely NUTS. Do you think the software works in the ECU or in the pedal position sensor? (the input you plan on manipulating).

Please STOP. And please tell all of us what College/University awarded you and Engineering degree so we can all avoid it for our kids. I am an Automotive engineer and I know that several that replied are also engineers, you make ZERO sense and you keep on proving that over and over. THERE IS NO SOFTWARE between the pedal position sensor and the ECU. Any dampening is done at the ECU if wanted.

You clearly like to confuse POWER rating as the RATE THAT THE WORK IS DONE (Torque X Angular seed) and POWER CONSUMED/POWER APPLIED.

The POWER delivered to the driving wheels is the ONLY power that matters in accelerating the vehicle. That power needs to impart speed while counteracting friction, aerodynamic resistance, tire roll resistance, inertial forces to the TOTAL MASS of the vehicle. More power is the ONLY way to make it faster with all other variables remaining equal.

After this reply I am done because Einstein here confuses Force, Power rating and Power Consumed.

 

Only misinformed or delusional people have "agreed" that it comes from the pedal.

 

No, they absolutely, positively 100% DO NOT. This has been proven.

 

No they don't!
No software in the pedal.
And your definitely missing something.

Seems you can't be educated or guided, so go ahead buy a sprint booster and pulley for your V8S, you will be extremely happy, car will feel much faster as you fall into the class of been easily fooled, why because you are a fool if you truly believe all the trash coming out your mouth.

 

I think this is the highest rated product Ive ever seen on Amazon....
I'm not the OP. The OP said it made his/her jag astonishingly faster. Cope. Deep breath. It'll all be OK.

 

Fools are easily fooled and parted with their money.

Sprint booster, Pedal Max, Pedal Commander, absolutely a total waste of money, zero improvement in performance, all it changes is pedal sensitivity, no less, no more.

Anyone who says otherwise, is miss-educated, dumb, sales guy, troll.

You want to go faster, get a tune!