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wow amazing...so the question is can this damage something... i had that on porsche cayman and no problems at all only 1 time the switch go broke but the sprint booster no
so i want buy it for reduce the lag throttle but a little bit scared
wow amazing...so the question is can this damage something... i had that on porsche cayman and no problems at all only 1 time the switch go broke but the sprint booster no
so i want buy it for reduce the lag throttle but a little bit scared
on maserati forum i read horror stories
If you have the VAP tune, you really don't need that. The tune has already made the throttle response far more aggressive. There is another thread on this forum regarding this issue that got quite confrontational.
I had booster on our '14 Maserati Ghibli, base with bad turbo lag in normal setting. Worked great and had on it for 28 months on sport setting. Never mentioned by dealer, you can turn it off. No noticable problems. Didn't put on our '17 S Ghibli as more powerful engine seems not to need it.
They won't void your warranty, as they don't impact performance of the vehicle or impact the ECU tune in anyway whatsoever.
All they do is amplify the throttle signal, so before when you press the throttle and you got say 20% output, now with the sprint boost or pedal commander when pressing 20% you will get 40% or 60% depending on the setting you put sprint booster on. That is all it does.
Your 0-60, 0-100, 1/4 mile and BHP of the vehicle remain un-changed.
The people who think they do improve performance are either dumb, easily miss-guided, believe the snake oil manufacturer claims. All such devices do is reduce your active amount of pedal travel, so 100% throttle is reached with less throttle input.
Those who cannot press the pedal 100%, move the seat forward.
Presumably, OEM throttle lag is there for a reason. Similary, eliminating it could create problems. I doubt it will hurt anything, and many report spectacular gains in responsiveness which translates to speed to power for a faster car all around. If slower responsiveness didn't equal a slower car, there would be no reason to exit snow mode. I guess thats why such a simple part fetches $300.
Presumably, OEM throttle lag is there for a reason. Similary, eliminating it could create problems. I doubt it will hurt anything, and many report spectacular gains in responsiveness which translates to speed to power for a faster car all around. If slower responsiveness didn't equal a slower car, there would be no reason to exit snow mode. I guess thats why such a simple part fetches $300.
The car is not slower in snow mode, just the throttle mapping is changed, traction control settings and the AWD split (if AWD model).
People need to learn and understand that changing the throttle mapping or the throttle pedal window does not make the car faster or slower, it just merely depends on what kind of pedal sensitivity the owner prefers.
WOT is WOT whether its in snow mode, full beans dynamic or full beans dynammic with a pedal booster set to max. Performance figures will remain the same across all three.
The car is not slower in snow mode, just the throttle mapping is changed, traction control settings and the AWD split (if AWD model).
People need to learn and understand that changing the throttle mapping or the throttle pedal window does not make the car faster or slower, it just merely depends on what kind of pedal sensitivity the owner prefers.
WOT is WOT whether its in snow mode, full beans dynamic or full beans dynammic with a pedal booster set to max. Performance figures will remain the same across all three.
Faster to throttle is a faster car, by definition. Your point is well taken though, that reducing lag doesn't increase engine power.
Well, we should be careful, technically, it does slightly increase engine power since power is work and work considers time from start to finish. But that time decrease won't show up on a dyno run since the dyno's timer starts only after the throttle opens and this things time reduction hapoens pre-throttle open. That's really the point of it, right?
It would not affect torque, which is your point, and throttle response certainly doesn't affect torque, or, the amount of motive force. It doesn't say it does increase power or torque so I think customers understand that.
Faster to throttle is a faster car, by definition. Your point is well taken though, that reducing lag doesn't increase engine power.
Well, we should be careful, technically, it does slightly increase engine power since power is work and work considers time from start to finish. But that time decrease won't show up on a dyno run since the dyno's timer starts only after the throttle opens and this things time reduction hapoens pre-throttle open. That's really the point of it, right?
It would not affect torque, which is your point, and throttle response certainly doesn't affect torque, or, the amount of motive force. It doesn't say it does increase power or torque so I think customers understand that.
I have about 100 quarter mile runs on my SVR and my fastest time of 11.28's was in snow mode, people need to understand throttle response, throttle mapping and throttle amplification devices have no impact on performance or horsepower.
I've ran my car in every combination and typically the fastest results come from snow/wet mode, gearbox in S but manual mode selected to ensure it sets of in 1st gear with TC full off.
But typically all the modes, combinations are within 0.2s, the biggest impact on performance is leaving the gearbox in auto D mode, but between snow, normal and dynamic there is hardly any difference, even in vmax mode, my best time is still from snow mode, S manual and TC off.
It should go without saying that a half second more throttle lag is a half second longer trap time.
So technically speaking, a sprintbooster adds more and more horsepower (but always adds zero torque) the shorter and shorter the trap time. You can calculate the horsepower difference by reducing the trap time by the amount of lag reduction. The shorter the trap, the more valuable.
For example, let's say a car has a sprint time of 3.1 seconds including 0.1 throttle lag. Simply removing the lag, at a use case of 3500 lbs RWD DC, is the equivalent of increasing horsepower from 564 to 589, or +25. Torque is obviously unchanged by time.
It's important to point out that horsepower is defined as work done per time. In the case of a car, that means the weight of the car moved a certain distance over a certain time. So features like AWD absolutely do add real horsepower. OEMs don't take HP credit for time to distance reducing features like AWD, since dynos have become industry standard at the wheels or crank even though neither measure an actual distance a car moves over a given time. Dynos make an assumption that RPM equals distance, which is obviously wrong in all cases. The only accurate way to measure a cars true horsepower is to time the car to some distance.
That's why a "less powerful" Nissan GT-R often beats a "more powerful" same weight car to certain distance. In fact, time to distance at a given weight is the very definition of hp. So the real reason it wins is that the GT-R has more horsepower than is measured with a poor approximation (Dyno).
Well, no. The HP numbers that the manufacturers quote is engine (brake) horsepower, i.e. how much the engine is putting out, presumably at the flywheel; has nothing to do with the drivetrain. The output of at dyno is obviously wheel horsepower, so some hand-waving factors are used to convert that back to engine horsepower.
There are a huge number of ways of defining horsepower...
It should go without saying that a half second more throttle lag is a half second longer trap time.
So technically speaking, a sprintbooster adds more and more horsepower (but always adds zero torque) the shorter and shorter the trap time. You can calculate the horsepower difference by reducing the trap time by the amount of lag reduction. The shorter the trap, the more valuable.
For example, let's say a car has a sprint time of 3.1 seconds including 0.1 throttle lag. Simply removing the lag, at a use case of 3500 lbs RWD DC, is the equivalent of increasing horsepower from 564 to 589, or +25. Torque is obviously unchanged by time.
It's important to point out that horsepower is defined as work done per time. In the case of a car, that means the weight of the car moved a certain distance over a certain time. So features like AWD absolutely do add real horsepower. OEMs don't take HP credit for time to distance reducing features like AWD, since dynos have become industry standard at the wheels or crank even though neither measure an actual distance a car moves over a given time. Dynos make an assumption that RPM equals distance, which is obviously wrong in all cases. The only accurate way to measure a cars true horsepower is to time the car to some distance.
That's why a "less powerful" Nissan GT-R often beats a "more powerful" same weight car to certain distance. In fact, time to distance at a given weight is the very definition of hp. So the real reason it wins is that the GT-R has more horsepower than is measured with a poor approximation (Dyno).
Your wrong again. Your either a troll or need some educating, either way I can't be bothered to waste my time, maybe someone else will try to educate you.
Again... Let me try and sell this now then... The new superduper Differential super fluid preheater that will result in the oil becoming much thinner and reducing drag in the differential... all for a amazing 0-60 gain of 0.3seconds. Simply remove the differential drain plug and insert this amazing heating element. My friend uses it on his Ford Tractor and it makes a world of difference.
Results may be subject to ambient temperature, lunar phase, humidity, distance from equator, time zone as well as car color. Includes FREE O-RING, some wiring may be necessary, professional installation is suggested.
sprintbooster
