After keeping my car for 29 of the last 32 days, my local dealer decided I needed plugs and fuel injectors to correct a a misfire condition on 6 of 8 cylinders. Their price is $6200 . I decided to decline that and do the work myself. I see the DIY thread, and the plug change DIY thread. I was wondering if anyone else has changed their own injectors and what additional tips/advice/ encouragement you can add. The modest shade tree mechanic degree of difficulty in your opinion. I bought the parts and plan on this Saturday/Sunday for the big day(s). I pretty much asked every mechanic I know, no one wants to touch a Jaguar, much less an Ftype. Also, I will have to tow the car from the dealer which I really don’t want to do. Anyone have their Ftype towed? If so, any damage?

 

It shouln't be towed as you could damage the autobox. Flat bed truck is the way to go.

 

It will be a Roll back flat bed. , I’m concerned about damage to the front when pulling it onto the roll back. The car starts , so they should be able to drive it up, but again I’m concerned about the angle. The reason for the float is fuel leaking into the oil from the injector, otherwise I would drive it home.

 

The trucks we have in the UK seem to have a gentle extending ramp so the front of the car should be okay. Not sure exactly what a roll back flat bed looks like to be able to reassure or dissuade you.

 

Honestly a stock height F Type should be fine with a flatbed. Most tow truck drivers carry 2x4s too.

 

Have fun trying to do the injectors. They can be a pain and a slide hammer has been the only way ive got some of the harder ones out. After theyre out its easy. The difficulty is pulling. Also need a special tool to form the seals at the bottom of the injectors so they fit and seal correctly.

 

Liqui Moly makes a spray that you can use to presoak the injector holes (overnight). I also take the spark plugs out first and give a few foggings of it in the combustion chamber (heat bend a U in the straw). Never had any issue pulling the injectors. Alternatively, a mix of Acetone and transmission fluid is very helpful.

 

well I got the car home, it scraped a little loading, but was fine coming off. We unloaded on a slight decline. I have a slide hammer, and every tool /item listed in the DIY thread. I bought the injectors new, it looks like all the seals are already on the the new injectors. I still need to buy a seal kit and tool? I thought that was only if you were cleaning and reusing the injectors! Good tip on the liquiMoly , I will definitely buy some before I start. the other thing, clearance around the engine. I wear size XL gloves and have big meaty construction hands. It looks tight around , but I haven’t removed the heat shielding!
It was a little strange at the dealership, they almost refused to give me the smart key until the tow truck arrived.

I actually don’t understand how the dealer did a thorough investigation and told me nothing was wrong with it, returned my Car , a day later it needed all new injectors and spark plugs and whatever else after this.

 

I would be suspicious also but unless you take it to another mechanic for a second opinion or hookup and read the codes yourself, your will be doing a lot of work based on that diagnosis..
Best of luck.

 

Well, if you shut your eyes you can truthfully say "I can see nothing wrong with it". Sounds like they didn't bother to do a professional job.

 

Even an H&R lowered car does not scrape going onto a rollback flatbed that is properly deployed.

 

I pulled the pugs, and the plug in cylinder four looked like this

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any ideas how this happened? Piston? Should I be really concerned for cylinder ? This might explain why it showed no misfires on the code reader and all other cylinders did! Any suggestions would be great !

 

A few things come to mind:
1-Somebody dropped the plug before installation and the impact bent the electrode.
2- Somebody installed the wrong spark plug that is too long and the electrode is contacting the piston. I have never seen an F-Type plug but the one in the picture looks really long.
3 - Something is in the cylinder bouncing around and hitting the electrode. Get a borescope and take a look inside the cylinder.

 

That reason can be eliminated by comparing against the other plugs that have been removed.

 

The plug is the correct one (ILKAR7C10) for your application (V8). In a few very rare events, on engines that ran extremely lean, I have seen this as well. If the ground terminal gets too hot, it deforms. That is NOT to say that this is the issue, but I strongly suggest that you pick up an inspection camera (cheap one at Harbor Freight will do) and carefully examine the head of the piston from the spark plug hole. It could have been dropped when it was first installed and then poorly re-gapped (if that).

 

This is what the head on the F-Type looks like. As you can see, the angle and position of the spark plug makes it white difficult for the piston to slam in the grounding prong (hole on the left)

 

It can sometimes take one hundred or more hits with the slide hammer tool 310-197 to remove a stuck injector. Be patient and avoid having the tool at an angle.

Prior to fitting the new injectors, the seals should be checked for correct sizing using tool 310-199.

Be sure to thoroughly clean the injector bores with round brass brushes and remove any debris left behind. Do not use any lubricant on the Teflon injector seal during installation.

Make certain to align the fuel rail with the injectors to avoid having the injectors tightened at an angle as the Teflon seal will fail.

 

I finished , buttoned up. Took about 8 hours to do both sides, with the passenger side taking only about 2 1/2 hours. ( obviously learned from driver side. ) started the car, still idling a little rough, check engine light went off but Still have a cylinder 7 and cylinder 8 misfire on the code reader. No 1367 or 1368 code for ignition coils , But I’m think of changing ignition coils on 7 &8 anyway, to see if that helps. Anyone else have a suggestion?.

 

Just a WAG but maybe bad connectors or faulty harness feeding the coils on those coils ?