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Thanks. That's a more complete diagram than the one up top. Number 11 is the bit that bolts to the left cylinder head. Replacing that with a blanking plate or similar and removing everything else is what I'm thinking.
An alternate means to disable the system would be to remove hose #6 and cap the port on #7 where it connects, assuming that the neutral state of the symposer is off. If it's like the valves in the muffler, the neutral state might be "loud" in which case, that would make it on all the time. That would be what I'd call a "negative outcome."
Sure thing.
The only pieces left on mine now are #5 and part of #11. And those are just both plugged. The rest is taken out and scraped
Firewall plug left Firewall plug - plugged Manifold tube cut and plugged Symposer Removed
Mod done and it's absolutely brilliant. Made a big difference in my car. I took some glass wool insulation, wrapped it in aluminium foil and plugged the pipe with that.
I always thought the car was borderline annoyingly loud in the cabin under heavy load but strangely enough not because of the fantastic exhaust noise, but because a kind of howling mid range drone, sounding kind of like a 4 cylinder at full chat. That was all the damn symposer. The noise level is much better now and I can hear the exhaust and upshift farps better than before because they were drowned out by the odd drone before.
I remember from my XF days that the XFRs with the AJ133 had this symposer and there I guess it made some sense because the XF cabin is so much more sound insulated than the F-types. Completely forgot about it and couldn't imagine that it would be fitted to the F-Type. This thing smells like a kind of pointless carry over because I really can't see how it could be considered to add any value in the F-Type. At least not in the V6 and V8 cars, although it might make sense in the P300.
I looked up the properties of Ensolite material.
Description: ENSOLITE IV2 closed cell sponge is a blend of PVC/Nitrile/Neoprene polymers to provide optimum characteristics for gasketing or sealing applications. IV2 is a long accepted material for indoor and outdoor uses requiring a temperature range of -40°F to +200° F.
IV2 is rated as 2B2 under ASTM D1056-07. This is a good rating for oil resistance in ASTM D1056 and allows IV2 to be used where other materials might swell and upset functionality. IV2 is listed as meeting the UL94 V-0, V-1 and HF-1 flammability ratings and the FMVSS-302 rating. These ratings and good chemical resistance allow IV2 ENSOLITE to be used in many industrial, OEM, transportation and automotive applications. It is also listed to UL 50E.
ENSOLITE IV2 closed cell PVC/Nitrile/Neoprene sponge is a soft/medium density material. Other grades are IV1 (soft density), and IV3 (medium density).
Looks like good stuff for an automotive application. A roll of it is not expensive and there would be plenty left over.
McMaster Carr also offers high temperature, silicone rubber tapered plugs that might be a good solution.
I'm going to use the insulation from the engine cover which should be fine as its designed to rest on top of the motor under the plastic cover. I only use the engine cover when away for extended period of time with rain in forecast. I removed the insulation from the CF engine cover also.
FrankUpdate. Used the engine cover insulation, cut to size stuffed into hole, put back together all of maybe 5 minutes. DONE. Now I only hear engine and exhaust harmony.
Last edited by frank barone; 08-14-2021 at 04:46 PM.
How about a piece of Dynamat cut and rolled up and stuffed into the tube as Lizzardo did with the Ensolite material in his original post ?
The Dynamat Xtreme variant is supposed to have excellent heat resistance so shouldn't have any problems with the engine heat.
Last edited by Dwight Frye; 08-15-2021 at 08:20 AM.
The only pieces left on mine now are #5 and part of #11. And those are just both plugged. The rest is taken out and scraped
Firewall plug left Firewall plug - plugged Manifold tube cut and plugged Symposer Removed
where are you getting your boost reference for the water meth guage from?
I was thinking of tapping it in the symposer, but is there any boost to read there?
where are you getting your boost reference for the water meth guage from?
I was thinking of tapping it in the symposer, but is there any boost to read there?
You cannot use the Symposer as a boost reference. And I do not have a WMI gauge. I have a WMI system installed and I spent time creating an entire DIY, so you can review that HERE. I use an AEM variable controller to manage the spray and it uses a voltage reference (0-5V). Multiple sources to do that. If you want to connect a boost gauge, probably need to tap the SC lid, or tap an appropriate vacuum line.
A bit of an old thread but thought this might be useful?
I have found the factory blanking plug that replaces Therock88's item #11 on his great model posted above.
It's a bit expensive for me at about $45-$60 and I will probably just make a flat blocking plate or follow the above suggestions and stuff something in the hole.
Note this is a LR only part. LR025788
A bit of an old thread but thought this might be useful?
I have found the factory blanking plug that replaces Therock88's item #11 on his great model posted above.
It's a bit expensive for me at about $45-$60 and I will probably just make a flat blocking plate or follow the above suggestions and stuff something in the hole.
Note this is a LR only part. LR025788
You cannot use the Symposer as a boost reference. And I do not have a WMI gauge. I have a WMI system installed and I spent time creating an entire DIY, so you can review that HERE. I use an AEM variable controller to manage the spray and it uses a voltage reference (0-5V). Multiple sources to do that. If you want to connect a boost gauge, probably need to tap the SC lid, or tap an appropriate vacuum line.
DC
Already tapped the SC for boost reference and 4 meth nozzles lol. Working great. I used a snowperformance controller, pump, and solenoid. The distributers and nozzles i used are pro meth.
Already tapped the SC for boost reference and 4 meth nozzles lol. Working great. I used a snowperformance controller, pump, and solenoid. The distributers and nozzles i used are pro meth.
No this is wrong and has been posted multiple times. The Ford Focus Symposer block off plate will NOT fit the Jaguar symposer. It's close but you will need to hog the holes out on the Focus one. Not a great solution and you might as well just make your own.
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Reporting back after plugging the hose yesterday. It's like having become used to a collection of sounds for so long that you don't really hear them after a while, but then having one vanish. You're not sure what changed, but it's noticeably quieter, less "auditorially stressing". In our 2015 Type R coupe at steady speed (around 60 mph), tire noise is the loudest, followed by a mixture of engine, exhaust, and the symposer, followed by other traffic sounds. It's hard to describe what's missing, but it's noticeable by its absence. Next time my wife gets a ride I'll ask her if she hears anything different, as I haven't said what I've done yet.
Impeccable timing... I'm actually in the process of finalizing a block-off plate for the symposer delete. @clubairth1, you're absolutely correct that the "Sound Symposer Delete for the Ford Focus ST" will absolutely NOT fit correctly on our cars (at least not on my '11 XFR). I think the pix have already been posted to attest to that on another thread, but I can post more, if needed (complete waste of time, though - just trust me... it doesn't line up correctly).
I was considering using 1/8" stainless steel to fab my block-off plate, but ended up going with 8mm aluminum because it was easier to cut, shape, and drill (the whole dissimilar metals' corrosion thing is a moot point, as the aluminum charge cooler housing and my block-off plate won't ever come into contact with each other, per the silicone sheet I'll use). I'm deciding between 1/16" and 1/8" high-heat (isn't it all?) silicone to go between the aluminum block-off plate I just fabbed and the charge air cooler.
I used a 3/4" reinforced silicone coolant cap for the open hose at the firewall to the symposer speaker in the cabin (as usual, overkill is what I do best).
I'll likely decide on the silicone sheet thickness to go under the block-off plate tonight, and then cut and install it tomorrow.
In the meantime, I'm happy to answer questions (as time permits), but here're some pix for S&G...
Also, one could easily use a very thin type of metal on top of a silicone seal, which would take a helluva' lot less time fabricating, if one chose to use the OEM symposer hose connection on top of it (which I easily removed from the OEM symposer hose). I had a bunch of scrap metal laying around and I like building stuff, so I didn't go that route, but here's the part to which I'm referring...
Also, the OEM screws are M6 x 1.00 x 30mm. I'll use 25mm screws, as my solution isn't as thick as the OEM hose connection.
You know after I found what Jaguar did to make the factory blank off plate I thought the same thing? The factory part comes off the symposer so a thin metal gasket would be all that is needed? In fact it looks like Jaguar did exactly that but instead of a metal plate just changed the plastic molding to include a blanking plug internally.
This is getting simpler all the time!
Nice idea!
What about using the factory piece and just putting a rubber cap on the nipple like you did on the fire wall?
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That was my initial idea, including potentially using a tapered silicone plug under the cap, but I didn't want to take any chances (was unsure of pressure, etc.), which is why I also didn't just use a metal sheet under the symposer hose mount. I'd bet that a thick enough silicone sheet under the OEM symposer hose mount, even without a metal sheet sandwiched between, would be sufficient, though. But, like I mentioned in the post above, I like fabricating things and had the materials already laying around from previous projects. Using just the OEM symposer hose mount on top of a thin silicone sheet without metal backing scares me because the OEM symposer hose mount has a huge hole in it, which seems like an opportunity for a pressure bulge.
If you use a silicone cap on the OEM symposer hose mount on the charge cooler (not the firewall), the appropriate I.D. is 7/8". I have one and it fit perfectly, although the one I had was a little too long. If I'd used it, I could've easily shortened it with a razor blade, though.
I ended up using 1/8" silicone sheet under my 8mm aluminum block-off plate.
08-09-2021, 11:55 AM
