Adding Oil Catch Can Install DIY. In case anyone wants to add one.

TheRock88 Oil Catch Can DIY

 

Adding General info on Coolants as a guide from info I obtained from the web.
DC

Why it’s Important to Have the Right Engine Coolant
In older cars, engine cooling systems were mostly brass, rubber parts and cast iron, so engine coolants were all pretty much the same. Today, automobile cooling systems have parts made from copper, silicon, nylon, steel, and magnesium and aluminum alloys. The type of coolant required by your vehicle can now vary by year, make, model, engine and even the country where the car was made. With so many factors in play, car owners need to know which type of engine coolant is right for their vehicle.

What are the Different Types of Engine Coolant
Many modern automobiles require enhanced engine coolants to properly maintain the vehicle’s cooling system and protect the engine from damage. Today, automotive service providers use three basic types of engine coolant:
• IAT – Inorganic Additive Technology
For decades, this distinctive green-colored coolant protected cooling systems, but it is rarely used as factory fill in modern cars. One reason is the fast depletion rate of its additives, which means it has to be changed more frequently, usually every two years or 24,000 miles.
• OAT – Organic Acid Technology - This is the Jaguar F-Type coolant (Silicate Free)
Commonly required for vehicles manufactured by General Motors, and some other automakers, OAT coolants are not compatible with other types. Usually orange, yellow, red or purple, OAT coolants are typically changed every five years or 50,000 miles.(This can also be Pink by the way)
• HOAT – Hybrid Organic Acid Technology
Providing the benefits of both IAT and OAT coolants, HOAT coolants are primarily orange and yellow and are common in Chrysler and Ford vehicles. OAT coolants are typically changed every five years or 50,000 miles, although some automakers specify intervals as long as 10 years or 150,000 miles.
• Hybrid and Electric Vehicle Cooling Systems
Most hybrid and electric vehicles have a separate cooling system for the battery pack. Only coolants that meet the automakers’ specifications should be used in these systems.
In addition to the basic coolant types described above, each automaker has unique requirements for engine coolants. The product used should always meet the applicable specifications. This information is available in your owner’s manual, and a good service technician will always make sure that the coolant used meets factory requirements.

Additional Things to Consider
Here are a few other points for engine coolant choice:

1. Coolant type cannot be accurately identified by color. Both OAT and HOAT are often orange or yellow, so they can be easily misidentified.
2. Automakers don’t adopt new coolants on a simple schedule. It’s entirely possible for two vehicles from the same manufacturer to use two completely different coolant types.
3. Just because a vehicle had one type of coolant when it left the factory doesn’t mean a different type of coolant wasn’t installed at some point in the life of the vehicle. When changing back to the factory recommended coolant, a complete cooling system flush should be performed first.

 

Morning DC,
Do you have a DIY on COOLANT change for our F Type V8?
Thank You

 

The fill on these is a lifetime fill and no change needed unless a repair is done etc.. Thus I have not had to change mine. I put a link below on my drive that does provide instructions on partial and full drain and fill. As well as the specs and torques from the manual I have access to.

Coolant Drain and Fill Instructions

DC

 

Adding a DIY for swapping out the Rear Diffuser from an F-Type R, with the SVR Diffuser:

Here is a link to a DIY on my drive with some additional pictures.

TheRock88 R to SVR Rear Diffuser DIY

DC

 

Outstanding information and illustrations, exactly what I needed... Thank you for your help and support.

Best,
Shawn

 

Morning DC,
How critical is it to have an OBDII monitoring device for the ATF temperature when doing the first refill and TQ refill on the ATF R & R and filter change? Is it possible to just warm up and follow your step by step on the DIY Transmission service? I have everything needed except the OBDII monitoring tool.

Thanks,
SY

 

Hi...You really need to get the temperature correct (within the range) when filling. It is very important as the level will expand or contract based on temps. If you do not get that part right, you can under or overfill the fluid and that is not a good situation. You will at the very least have slipping, and at worst damage your transmission (the ZF8HP0 lists for ~$18,000 so you do not want that!).

The simplest way you can check is to get the Torque App ($4.99 for full version on Google play) and any Bluetooth OBDII dongle ($5 - 20), and you can monitor that way. You can also use a laser thermometer and aim it at the casing or pan, but that is not very accurate....You could be ~10 degrees F or more off.

TQ refill? I assume you mean TC (Transfer Case?). No worries on temps for that one...Just drain and fill until it starts running out of fill plug hole.

Good luck.

DC

 

Thank you! These are much appreciated.

 

Adding Engine Mount Rand R Procedure to the list. (Note: This is for V8 AWD)

Engine Mounts R and R

 

What ever happened to simplicity !! I think I could change a motor mount in my 70 Chevy Nova in under 5 minutes !!!

 

DC, did you bust a mount or just expecting to with all the power upgrades?
That looks like a lot of work 😳

 

Think I broke mine. Too much torque for it.

 

Just read your post on the ordeal, that sucks man. Post up some pics when you get into it, best of luck.

 

Posted because of Stuart's issue and I got the info together. I recall some info somewhere about not removing all this stuff to change it....Going to see if I can find that as well...

DC

Edit: Found the other thread with a different approach... HERE

 

DC or anyone have a water pump DIY? After a day of driving, stopped for a water break at a watering hole. When I left, top down I got a face full of steam! Upon opening the bonnet, there was a large amount of water coming from the front of the motor. Couldn’t tell exactly where as the belt was throwing it everywhere. . Luckily it was close to the shop where It spent a good portion of last year getting a motor change. After letting it cool overnight, I went back, topped it up with distilled water and eased down the road to the shop. Hopefully it’s a hose clamp or other issue related to the motor change, not my expense. But in case, and what I suspect, I am gathering info on water pump replacement.

 

From info gathered throughout the forum chances are it’s not the water pump.

Nonetheless this may provide some insight https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-145505/page2/

 

It could be the faulty coolant pipes others have experienced, but either way, I have added a link below to my cloud drive, and uploaded the R and R procedures for most Cooling System Components.

DC
Cooling System Components R & R

 

thanks, I appreciate it. I’m hopeful on coolant lines, but most of those were replaced when they changed the motor.

 

I love it when things work out. the top of the lower hose came disconnected somehow??? Probably never fully connected.