Very good information

 

Been looking into this myself since what happened to my V6 engine that's being replaced next week with a new from JLR. Spoke to so many people in the aftermarket repair, Jag specialists, and nobody could recall a case of a spun bearing in a petrol AJ126 with so few miles (34K) and full history. I know it's a very rare case but I can't help but think if the 0W20 oil has played a part in the premature failure 😔

 

The oil fill cap on our early 2014 says "5W-20" so that is what I use. (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum that meets the specs)

I watched both of those videos previously, good information.

 

I personally doubt it. It’s not like there are mass failures with any of these engines.

Wow, sorry to hear about your troubles. What a pain.

 

All BS, oil had nothing to do with GM failures. They had tolerance issues, design issues, please stop promoting this stuff, changing oil weight was only to help with loose tolerances, as thicker oil allows more tolerance, hence why old cars had much heavier weights, high HP engines have very tight tolerances, go put 40w in your jag engine and see how long it lasts.

 

Bearing clearances haven't changed, yet viscosity went thinner and anti-wear additives increased. The reason is CAFE, not special tight engines.

 

I think keeping within expected viscosity window is safe so I suspect a 0w30 or even 0w40 is probably safe. I run 0w20 currently, but if I "tracked" my car I'd likely go heavier on the right to the 30 or 40....

Does anyone run 0w-30 or 0w-40?

 

I’ve been asking if anyone actually runs 0w-30 and nobody yet has answered on the X150 forum in a different discussion. What would be good is oil analysis on 0w20 and 0w30 🤪💯

 

I'm waiting on lab results to come back on some virgin and used samples of top tec 6600. Then I'll look at alternatives in 0w40 flavor like Castrol Edge.

 

It's not just the bearing that use oil, camshaft chain tensioners are normally hydraulic, with a thicker oil this might put extra tension on the chain and cause premature wear. Also your tappets are hydraulic and it can pump them up excessively and cause them not to close.
I worked on an engine not a jag, the guy said I've just done a service and I will not start now, many hours of fault finding I done a compression test zero compression, he had used a thick oil because the car had done 100k and thought it would run better. Put the right oil in and hay presto running again, so it's not just about bearing life.

 

until someone risks the biscuit with oil analysis, I'm going to stick to 0w-20. What I'm not going to do is go 1 year and/or 10k miles. The one-year thing isn't happening because I drive too much. So, it's every 3000 miles with Pennzoil Ultra platinum or maybe Amsoil sig series.

 

I know that this is not Jaguar engine related, but I have eight vehicles for my business which we maintain ourselves. The gas engine vehicles have three different oil recommendations which we use 5w30 Castrol in them all and never had an issue. Some of these engines have 175000 miles with no issues. We change oil every 5 000 to 6000 miles. We buy our oil in 55 gallon drums and we use Baldwin filters on all the vehicles including the diesel engines which we use Rotella 15w40 oil. We have been doing this for over 30 years without a problem, most of these engines run all day, everyday. So the hours on the engines are far more than the milage would suggest. Draw your own conclusions.

 

I have oil analyses from Day 1, with only one missing. My longest interval was 8430 miles, and the analysis was good. From the report:

"Here's another excellent report for your Jag's growing collection. This is the longest oil run you
sampled thus far, so it's good to see metals are holding steady. That means internal parts didn't struggle to
keep up. You're interested in extending the oil change interval from here, and there is no reason to hold
back. TBN is plenty strong at 4.4, so there was no shortage of active additive remaining. Air and oil filtration
worked well yet again, keeping silicon (dirt) and insolubles (oxidized solids) low. Try ~10,500 miles next
time. Nice work."

Even back in the Old Days before synthetic I never recommended to my customers a 3000 mile interval.

 

Trying to get a baseline established. Silicone elevation is likely due to the supercharger disassembly, new RTV, and anything else from having all that apart for an extended period. I'll re-sample to make sure that's trendy down.

 

Trending down.

 

Questions....

1. Who is this presenter and what are his creds?

2. How similar are the failed GM engines to others?

Comments...

1. Like any other POV here (What is the best oil) many viewpoints. Good to read them and decide for yourself. Too many variables complicate the decision making process... how do you drive? what is your climate? what kind of gas do you use? mileage on engine?

2. Good to make use of an oil analysis service. I have them for my 2017 V-6, running Liqui-moly 0w20. I put maybe 3-4,000 miles on a year. Lab reports tell me that I have no contaminant issues and I could 'extend' my interval. I change it annually, so not interested in pushing the changes out.

3. On my 'antique' 4.2 L 69 E type engine, I moved from 10w30 to 20w50 a couple of years after full rebuild. He doesn't get driven in our Wisconsin winter, so the possible protection may help it in summer driving months.