Just confirmed this with my tuner, absolutely no codes. Engine just goes into limp mode!

Btw, I have also installed the upper pulley.

 

Ok..same set up, similar tune, similar symptoms, but I'm getting a code to point us to the answer. Is your limp mode a soft limp mode (temporary) or does it require some kind of ECU reset through the ODBII?

 

I think it was just a soft limp mode, will confirm it again with my tuner tomorrow though.

I do know that we did 2 dyno runs, with significantly different results, depending on how warm the engine was and the ambient temperature. You can actually see it on the picture I posted on the previous page, it shows both runs.

Which code did you get?

 

pm

 

Below, are the results of the most recent V6 engine tests using a 11.8% lower overdrive pulley and 2.5% upper reduction pulley. We have concluded that the results would have been more consistent over the entire engine speed range if the upper pulley had not been used since the SC performance begins to fall off between 6400rpm and redline (18000-19000 rpm SC speed). The reason I am posting again here is that it would be inappropriate to underscore Eurotoy's effort in this project on a forum sponsor's thread. The lower pulley supplied by Eurotoys was key in developing the additional power. Without doubt, a good tune was needed to capitalize on the additional boost, but a tune alone on a V6S is unlikely net any significant gains. Obviously a tune alone on a V6 base should be able to match or slightly better a V6S.

Great thanks, to Mike at Eurotoys for having the foresight to make the 11.8% pulley available. None of the other lower pulley providers have the right size.

OEM output: 365hp 313 lb-ft
Eurotoys pulley with tune: 453hp 370 lb-ft






OEM and Tuned data below:

 

Thanks Unhinged for all your hard work and testing for all of us. So you feel the best bang for our buck is to go with the Eurotoys 11.5% pulley or 11.8% and the tune?

Thank you

 

Yes: +18mm lower pulley (not the +10mm that others have), and a tune to take advantage.

 

Didn't want to continue this discussion in the VelocityAP thread.:

Unhingd also mentioned that our engine covers are trapping lots of heat. Jaguar already knows this, hence no engine covers on the SVR and Project 7.

Would it be a big risk to run our cars without the engine covers in case of rain, car washing, etc? Base owners get the mesh vents as standard so think we'll need to move to closed ones if so.

 

Everything under that cover is, at the least, water resistant. On all of my cars, I regularly take a pressure washer to the engine compartment to clear out oil film and dust. The open mesh vents are actually preferable, as they will allow heat to be released from the engine compartment more quickly with additional open airflow.

 

In your opinion, what are the consequences of such tune on overall reliability of supercharger, transmission, differential, flex disks?

Also, I was told that F-type supercharger is sealed unit and there is no way to change oil. Is this true? Because with a setup like that I'd want to analyze/frequently change oil.

Also, would you be willing to analyze differential fluid after few track days with your setup?

 

Very interesting. How trustworthy is dash temperature gauge? Intuitively, I don't trust it... because I _NEVER_ seen it dip past the middle, not in traffic on a hot day with AC, not after hot laps on the track.

This is with 100% stock V6S.

 

The temperature gauge in the dash is programmed to stay in the middle until the coolant temperature is high. In the older cars they sit in the middle from something like 84°C to 118°C, I expect similar in the F-Type, it only goes up once you are already too hot and doesn't give you much warning if something is wrong.

 

As Cambo suggests, there's no on-board instrumentation available to us to warn of a mounting problem. We just have idiot lights and fake gauges to let us know that something has already failed (with the possible exception of the tpms).

I drove the same two mile circuit twice and measured the temperature (infrared thermometer) at the same spot on the intake manifold after each lap, first with the cover on, then with the cover off.
Results: 130.1F cover on, 111.4F cover off. This will have a significant impact on power,

 

Here's the risk analysis I have done, and it relies in no way on any scientific methodology. As requested, it is an opinion.
1. Supercharger: spins 15% faster than before at all speeds...15-20% reduced life. Further reduction in longevity at engine speeds over 6400rpm.
2. transmission (manual- no issue with automatic): maximum engine torque now exceeds maximum recommended transmission torque by 7%. Since safety margins are factored into component design to account for a certain amount of abuse, I don't expect premature wear but the likelihood of sudden failure is increased if the tranny is shocked with clutch dumping at full torque. (takeaway: don't do that).
3. Same logic would apply to the diff and flex discs.
4. The oil on the Eaton TVS R1320 can indeed be changed through the same small set screw in the front of the blower. Eaton recommends against changing the oil ever, except in the case of... The whole reason for tuning is the ...'s. I will be changing the oil every 25,000 miles
4. Yes I would be happy to sample the oil both before and after a couple of track days.

 

This is how I pull out of the driveway every morning, so it is deal-breaker for me.

 

Sooo...you may have to worry more about equipment longevity than I do.

 

Which diff do you have? When I ordered the big brakes I got the e-diff, which I believe is the same unit for the V8.

Flex discs? I'm not sure of the term. Flex plate, yes, but that's clearly not what you're talking about. From context, I assume something in the diff. Can you 'splain?

 

I too thought that since I got the active torque vectoring with the super performance brakes, that I had the e-diff. I subsequently learned that is not true (look at your order sheet..no reference to e-diff). It is still a mechanical diff (for which I am grateful). Only the V8 cars have the e-diff.

Universal joints are being replace with flex discs (fiber reinforced rubber). Here's a pic from a BMW, but very similar to ours on the rear wheels.

 

Nope, the flex disc is no longer used at the diff end of the propshaft (it was there on the older cars with the Ford/Visteon diff, but the GKN diff in the F-Type doesn't have it).

There is one flex disc at the transmission end of the propshaft though, but I would not worry about that, they cope just fine with the V8 power and in the older cars it was the flex disc at the diff end which used to tear up, but only after 100'000miles or so

 

Cambo,
Looking under the car, it looks like there's a flex disc at the end of the half shaft nearest the wheel. Not true?