V8 eDiff rebuild / repair
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Joined: Dec 2019
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From: NYC
It is probably no big deal but i would think thrice before cutting a hole in the body!
I think blowing from the fill port every time you change the fluid would be sufficient, it doesn’t look too hard to uncap it with s long reach tool.
I think blowing from the fill port every time you change the fluid would be sufficient, it doesn’t look too hard to uncap it with s long reach tool.
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From: South Kingstown, RI
@Ray Ray The “crud” that I extracted from the various corners of the XJL eDiff (and from many V6S LSD’S) seems to be impervious to air flow.
I am thinking the oil sludge with friction material is an accumulating, semi-solid formation.
This would favor the use of direct air pressure or a auger tool (the zip tie cleaning method) to clear the vent tube.
So I am supportive of @diablo2112 approach.
respectfully,
Herman
I am thinking the oil sludge with friction material is an accumulating, semi-solid formation.
This would favor the use of direct air pressure or a auger tool (the zip tie cleaning method) to clear the vent tube.
So I am supportive of @diablo2112 approach.
respectfully,
Herman
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 666
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From: NYC
@Ray Ray The “crud” that I extracted from the various corners of the XJL eDiff (and from many V6S LSD’S) seems to be impervious to air flow.
I am thinking the oil sludge with friction material is an accumulating, semi-solid formation.
This would favor the use of direct air pressure or a auger tool (the zip tie cleaning method) to clear the vent tube.
So I am supportive of @diablo2112 approach.
respectfully,
Herman
I am thinking the oil sludge with friction material is an accumulating, semi-solid formation.
This would favor the use of direct air pressure or a auger tool (the zip tie cleaning method) to clear the vent tube.
So I am supportive of @diablo2112 approach.
respectfully,
Herman
do you know if there is enough clearance for the crud to come out with a fluid change?
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From: South Kingstown, RI
Ray,
the crud (friction material and metal paste suspended in oil) seems to accumulate at low points and places with burs and threads (like the axle seals, and the fill port).
See my video above at 5:35, 6:05 and 9:50, where I pulled crud out of various corners of the diff.
I am thinking these small collections of crud will stay hidden in the unit when the oil is refreshed. The only place the crud will do any harm is in the vent tube. So best to clean that out with compressed air or a pick/zip tie.
the crud (friction material and metal paste suspended in oil) seems to accumulate at low points and places with burs and threads (like the axle seals, and the fill port).
See my video above at 5:35, 6:05 and 9:50, where I pulled crud out of various corners of the diff.
I am thinking these small collections of crud will stay hidden in the unit when the oil is refreshed. The only place the crud will do any harm is in the vent tube. So best to clean that out with compressed air or a pick/zip tie.
Last edited by HermanWiegman; May 2, 2024 at 09:21 AM.
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From: NYC
I was hoping when cleaning from the port side, the sludge would be suspended in the fluid and come out with a flush.
By clearance i meant if the inside of the diff had enough space for the sludge to travel through with the fluid flush.
i guess the best thing to do would be clean the port, run the car for a bit and then change the fluid to get most sludge out.
By clearance i meant if the inside of the diff had enough space for the sludge to travel through with the fluid flush.
i guess the best thing to do would be clean the port, run the car for a bit and then change the fluid to get most sludge out.
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From: Northern California
If I were to use the fill port to clear the vent I'd either make sure to use low pressure air or slight vacuum. The small handheld Mity-Vac seems a good choice. It's small enough that if the vent is clear, you'll never be able to get any appreciable vacuum. If the system holds even a slight vacuum, you'll know the vent is clogged.
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From: South Kingstown, RI
@Ray Ray
After looking at several diff units, I suspect there is no good way to rid the housing of the gunk.
There is room for the "sludge" / "crud" / "grime" / "gunk" to fall from the breather tube, back into the differential housing.
But it is heavy and schloppy... and I am not sure if it will flow or slide across the bottom of the housing while draining the oil (cold or hot).
I have found gunk in all sorts of corners and crevices, so the only way to rid your diff of the sludge is to remove the diff from the car and disassemble it.
That being said, I think the best path of action is to simply clear the vent tube with a zip tie, and refresh the rear diff oil. (every 25k miles?)
Then consider a rebuild of the diff, if it starts to loose it's LSD action (worn friction discs).
@lizzardo I think a small amount of air vac or pressure may be insufficient to move much crud... rather it would just run through the small hole/opening.
I think the zip tie method is better at cleaning out the passage.
After looking at several diff units, I suspect there is no good way to rid the housing of the gunk.
There is room for the "sludge" / "crud" / "grime" / "gunk" to fall from the breather tube, back into the differential housing.
But it is heavy and schloppy... and I am not sure if it will flow or slide across the bottom of the housing while draining the oil (cold or hot).
I have found gunk in all sorts of corners and crevices, so the only way to rid your diff of the sludge is to remove the diff from the car and disassemble it.
That being said, I think the best path of action is to simply clear the vent tube with a zip tie, and refresh the rear diff oil. (every 25k miles?)
Then consider a rebuild of the diff, if it starts to loose it's LSD action (worn friction discs).
@lizzardo I think a small amount of air vac or pressure may be insufficient to move much crud... rather it would just run through the small hole/opening.
I think the zip tie method is better at cleaning out the passage.
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From: Northern California
I was thinking low pressure to eliminate possibility of damaging a seal, and keeping the operation manageable entirely from underneath the car. You're the Jaguar diff specialist around here, so I'll certainly defer to your judgement.
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From: South Kingstown, RI
@lizzardo The V6 rear diffs (with friction LSD) also accumulate crud (if driven aggressively?),
but the V8's (with eDiff) seem to develop more issues with vent pipe clogging which leads to front pinion seal leaking.
I will report back on how much gunk I find in the unit you send back to me.
But it would be nice if a simple sequence of applying compressed air to the fill hole could liberate any crud in the vent pipe.
Perhaps some experiments are called for!
How much air pressure causes pinion seal failure?
How much air pressure will clear a clogged vent pipe?
How much crud can a wood chuck chuck?
but the V8's (with eDiff) seem to develop more issues with vent pipe clogging which leads to front pinion seal leaking.
I will report back on how much gunk I find in the unit you send back to me.
But it would be nice if a simple sequence of applying compressed air to the fill hole could liberate any crud in the vent pipe.
Perhaps some experiments are called for!
How much air pressure causes pinion seal failure?
How much air pressure will clear a clogged vent pipe?
How much crud can a wood chuck chuck?
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From: Northern California
But it would be nice if a simple sequence of applying compressed air to the fill hole could liberate any crud in the vent pipe.
Perhaps some experiments are called for!
How much air pressure causes pinion seal failure?
How much air pressure will clear a clogged vent pipe?
How much crud can a wood chuck chuck?
Perhaps some experiments are called for!
How much air pressure causes pinion seal failure?
How much air pressure will clear a clogged vent pipe?
How much crud can a wood chuck chuck?
Maybe I need to crawl under the car and see about access so that I'm not confusing things with impossible suggestions.
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Joined: May 2024
Posts: 44
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From: Rhode Island
Update: May 17, 2024
The folks over at RacingDiffs have an upgraded set of eDiff clutches in their production shop.
I will receive the first set of clutches from them and do a trial fit up.
These upgraded clutch discs should provide robust operation for the Jag eDiff.
Drive Well,
Herman
The folks over at RacingDiffs have an upgraded set of eDiff clutches in their production shop.
I will receive the first set of clutches from them and do a trial fit up.
These upgraded clutch discs should provide robust operation for the Jag eDiff.
Drive Well,
Herman
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Joined: Feb 2019
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From: Dallas, TX
Success. After a bit of prodding and looking around to convince myself nothing important would be cut into, I used a hole saw to cut a 3.5" access panel, and had easy access to the vent plug. To locate the hole, I first marked the position of the rear axle (with tape), then translated that measurement to the floor of the trunk with a bubble level. I looked carefully at both the floor and the diagram of the vent location, and decided to drill the hole slightly to the right and in front of the axle. Note: 2 pieces of sheet metal join in this region. I tried to drill out the forward portion only, but still caught some of the lip of the rear piece. If you're doing this, I'd drill 2" closer to the front from my location, but it's not a big deal.
The vent was nearly perfectly in the middle of my hole. 3.5" was the smallest hole I could get my hand through, and from there, it was just a matter of cleaning up around the vent, then cleaning out the vent. I used a nylon tie wrap. I found no gunk at all in my vent, it looked really, really clean. Now, peace-of-mind in knowing I won't have vent issues.
To button it up, I used a couple of pieces of sound deading, and captured the piece I had drilled out in-between. Easy peasy.
To help you in locating the proper place to cut out the access hole, note the 2 pieces of tape in the photos below are centered on the centerline of the car and the rear axle. Center of tape in each case. Note again, I'm cutting just to the right of the centerline (2" to be specific) and placing the lower edge of the 3.5" hole at the seam for the 2 pieces of sheet metal. If I did it again, I'd cut the hole 2" closer to the front of the car to avoid the sheet metal seam all-together.
Here's a few pics.
The vent was nearly perfectly in the middle of my hole. 3.5" was the smallest hole I could get my hand through, and from there, it was just a matter of cleaning up around the vent, then cleaning out the vent. I used a nylon tie wrap. I found no gunk at all in my vent, it looked really, really clean. Now, peace-of-mind in knowing I won't have vent issues.
To button it up, I used a couple of pieces of sound deading, and captured the piece I had drilled out in-between. Easy peasy.
To help you in locating the proper place to cut out the access hole, note the 2 pieces of tape in the photos below are centered on the centerline of the car and the rear axle. Center of tape in each case. Note again, I'm cutting just to the right of the centerline (2" to be specific) and placing the lower edge of the 3.5" hole at the seam for the 2 pieces of sheet metal. If I did it again, I'd cut the hole 2" closer to the front of the car to avoid the sheet metal seam all-together.
Here's a few pics.
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Joined: May 2024
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From: Rhode Island
@xxaarraa Yes, the vent pipe at the top of the diff gives access to the interior volume, so you could use it as an oil fill port… albeit a slow one.
Note: the vent pipe cant act as an extraction port as the carrier is in the way of accessing the predominance of the oil reservoir… unless you flip the car over and allow the oil to drain out of the vent pipe. ;-)
Note: the vent pipe cant act as an extraction port as the carrier is in the way of accessing the predominance of the oil reservoir… unless you flip the car over and allow the oil to drain out of the vent pipe. ;-)
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From: Northern California
@xxaarraa Yes, the vent pipe at the top of the diff gives access to the interior volume, so you could use it as an oil fill port… albeit a slow one.
Note: the vent pipe cant act as an extraction port as the carrier is in the way of accessing the predominance of the oil reservoir… unless you flip the car over and allow the oil to drain out of the vent pipe. ;-)
Note: the vent pipe cant act as an extraction port as the carrier is in the way of accessing the predominance of the oil reservoir… unless you flip the car over and allow the oil to drain out of the vent pipe. ;-)
RE: valve on the vent. The vent pipe has a plastic cap on it that does not seal, but acts as a baffle. The vent needs to breath in both directions, but also exclude the general roadway filth from getting in.
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