Unfortunately, if a readiness monitor is not complete, no amounts of pixie dust in a bottle will force the monitor to complete and pass an OBD hook up emissions check.

 

If I remember right from my last CA smog test, it is just a CPU check for fault codes and visual check and maybe a gas cap test for an older car but no more sniff test or dyno test. So as Samit said when you flash back to stock or even clear any fault codes you will have to drive around for about 100 miles to reset all of the monitors for the CPU to be ready for a smog test. Plus on my last smog test (different car) I'm the one that pulled the car in and out of the garage, the tester never moved the car or reved it up.
So just flash it back to stock and take it out for a long drive and drive like GrandMa (not the one from Pasadena) until the readiness monitors are set then take it in for the smog test. You should be all set to go.

 

Hi,
Is there a way to tune the I4 engine so that it sounds more Jag and less kitten? I know it's only a 4cyl but would be nice to make it sound better.
Thanks.

 

It's difficult to engineer a good sound into a 4-banger. For one thing, you are pretty much stuck with a 1,3,4,2 firing order to make it run somewhat smoothly. With more cylinders, you can play with the firing order to give it a distinctive sound. Opening up the exhaust on a 4-cylinder will just allow it to sound like a tractor engine (or a swarm of angry hornets at higher rpm).

 

And then there is the turbo which tends to muffle exhaust sounds and make it even harder to get a good sounding note.

 

Thanks for the explanations. I won't chase trying to get the sound I would if I had a "real" engine. I guess I can download an MP4, play it through the stereo (which is much better then the one in the 2016 F Type I had), and pretend I have a real engine.

 

well, if you really want go big:

https://www.sound-booster.com/en/set...c-vehicle.html

 

Those things are amazing. Learn something new every day.

 

DefaultQuestion about the tuning for those that might know.

I'm assuming in the ECU there is a map commanding a certain amount of boost pressure at given load/rpm/etc, with the bypass valve opening to prevent overboost. I live in Colorado (so 5,000 feet and I'm already starting in the hole in terms of power) and am wondering, is this referenced to ambient baro pressure or to sea level ? IE does the ECU command absolute pressure of, say, 20 psi or does it command +7 over ambient? Obviously, there are physical limitations in terms of the mass of air that can be shoved through at any given rpm (because air density is less) but I'm wondering if there's some headroom that allows for some of the loss to be made up so to speak. (IE on supercharger efficiency map, the line would be drawn parallel to, but above the sea level line)

 

ECU's look at absolute for pressure setting commanded, and for ignition a barometric sensor reading is used to alter timing.

 

Thanks, Christopher. I have your Stage 2 pulley and tune (on the v6) and will likely be going to stage 3 with the upper pulley soon. Is the "boost absolute pressure - raw value" from the GAP IID tool a reliable measure of what's actually being provided ?

 

I'm not sure what the GAP IID tool generates but on our VAP JLRToolKit Datalogger I use a similar description PID (Boost Absolute Pressure Raw Value). I built our tool and a lot of the dealer JLR SDD datalogger PID's have the wrong correction formulas, so if this GAP IID tool mirrors the JLR SDD, it would have a large amount of incorrect values.

 

Thanks again to Chris and Stuart at Velocity AP for their fine products and support. It was time for me to replace the plastic coolant pipes, so I took the opportunity to change the SC pulley and up my tune. Chris turned the tune update around quickly for no charge (since I purchased their pulley). I did not perform the install work, a local shop did. We opted to get the depth calibration tool to ensure ease of install.

It took longer to update the Vtech tool than it did to update the car file! The last time I used it was in 2019 when I installed the lower crank pulley and tune. I had not turned the car on until after instructed by the Vteck - it recycled the Vtech at that point with no issue. I selected the new file and off it went.

According to Chris, factory boost is 10 psi. The crank pulley bumps to 13.5. This then goes another 1.5 psi up to 15. I definitely notice an improvement - and it's HOT out today in South Florida. I can't wait for the cooler weather to enjoy increased torque. As a point of information, like before the check engine light lit at first after the update. It took about five on/off cycles before the check engine light self-cleared. It all worked without a hitch.

I'm one very happy Velocity AP customer! I remember when I dyno'd the car in 2019 the increases were impressive with just the first round of mods. I was asking Chris if my estimates post pully are specs are around 650 HP 600 ft. lbs. torque (engine). He affirmed.

 

Question for all you tuned guys out there - mine is a 2015 R, both VAP pullies (pre griptec), VAP high flow cats, mina intake, VAP tune. The car has good power low down but seems there is a big bump in power north of around 4000 rpm, really takes off like a massive vtec effect. Normal? Also have heard of pulley slippage with the older VAP pullies, what does that typically feel like?

 

Personal impressions are hard to characterize from one to another, but IMHO the torque curves on these machines don't match what you describe. I don't note such a dramatic change as RPM builds, but with the 8 speed we are at or near the peak torque in a very flat curve after shifting the first time - it pulls in all gears more or less the same to me.

From prior posts (see the one on pulleys - https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-0l-sc-195858/ - if I recall Chris from VAP clarifies that the pulleys simply move the air sooner (makes perfect sense of course) so you get the torque curves fattened more to the left. The factory torque curve for these motors shows torque coming on (and close to peak) as low as 2300 RPM. Unfortunately my 2019 dyno tests started recording load around 3000 RPM where the driver was ramping the throttle down. By the time all was stabilized - my car was about 460 RW ft. lbs @3300 RPM, peak at 507 at 4800. The curve is quite flat - with most data all from say 475 ft. lbs. to 490 ft. lbs.

I have no dyno data with both pulleys and the latest revised tune (purportedly it simply controls the bypass valve [wastegate] at a higher pressure.

 

I agree, which is why I was asking big v8 + positive displacement supercharger + pulleys I would think add a bunch of power everywhere. Was wondering how pulley slip manifests itself typically - if it's a problem I might need to upgrade the defective pulley. Don't get me wrong, still fast, but definitely has a big surge when you get the revs up. I also have traction control off.

 

I would think that pulley slip would be the opposite of what you see. Superchargers are power hogs - the HP demand of the SC is greater at higher RPM. As such, if you're going to slip, it would be there.

That to me in the converse of what you describe.

As an alternate measure - do you have 1/4 mile times and HP? From there you can reasonably impute HP.

 

Yep my gut said that as well, but things aren't always as I think they should be. I haven't had the car dynoed and haven't done the quarter mile - not really too concerned honestly, just have always noticed this power characteristic. When I hold the traction control button for 3 seconds and the light comes on, is traction control completely off at that point? Was thinking it could be something else intervening.

Either way, car is plenty fast only real concern I may have is long term issue with the older VAP pulley that had been reported to slip under some conditions.

 

As I recall, the first setting is track mode, then the next is 'no' assistance. From what I understand very few cars have a real 'no' assistance mode. If the hold for 3 seconds is how you get to 'no' assistance - then IMHO its exactly that. Generally with good tires granny doesn't step in even in street mode. You see the light on the dash when granny intercedes as I recall.

 

Per my copy of the Owner Manual:

TracDSC is an alternative setting of DSC, with
reduced system interventions. With TracDSC
engaged, traction may be increased, although
stability may be reduced compared to normal
DSC. TracDSC is intended for use only on dry
tarmac, by suitably experienced drivers.
TracDSC should not be selected for other
surfaces or by drivers with insufficient skill and
training to operate the vehicle safely with the
TracDSC function engaged.
Press and hold the DSC switch for 1 second
and then release.
SWITCHING BETWEEN DSC AND
TRACDSC
Press and hold the DSC switch for less than 3
seconds. The Message centre will temporarily
display either TracDSC or DSC On.
The DSC Off warning lamp will illuminate when
TracDSC is active.
Note: Cruise control will automatically be
disengaged.

And:

Press and hold the DSC switch for more than
3 seconds.
• The Message centre will display DSC Off
and a short warning chime will sound.
• The DSC Off warning lamp in the Instrument
panel will illuminate. See 40, DYNAMIC
STABILITY CONTROL (DSC) (AMBER).
SWITCHING DSC ON
Press the DSC switch for 1 second and then
release.
The DSC system will switch on, the Message
centre will temporarily display DSC On.
Note: Switching the engine off and then on
again, will always revert DSC status to DSC On,
regardless of which mode is selected.

So if starting with the default setting of DSC On you press the DSC button for one second to get TracDSC and for three seconds to turn DSC off.