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When the stock boxes are removed, the volumetric area left behind is huge and more than enough for this engine to suck into.
The GT4 just has the blanking plates (that hold the parking sensors) that are mounted behind our 'Sharks gills' removed.
I contemplated the GT4 route when installing itg induction kit, but after looking at the lower undertray and the general area, I concluded that there was no benefit, and would most probably curse the fact that I would be cleaning the filters a lot more often
This wheelwell area is fed by the air tubes (13) that collect cold air from behind the front crash bar, these normally feed cold air to the now removed airboxes. Excess air 'forced' into the wheelwell area is able to escape from a large cutout in the undertray, although this is replaced on the SVR with cut out slots in the fender liner I believe.
So, I'm at a loss why people seem to think that the air is hot in this area, or any hotter than being completely open like the GT4 car.
My itg setup has the filters within a couple of inches of the fresh air tubes, VAP have merely raised their filters up a bit to mitigate any water ingress.
This wheelwell area is fed by the air tubes (13) that collect cold air from behind the front crash bar, these normally feed cold air to the now removed airboxes. Excess air 'forced' into the wheelwell area is able to escape from a large cutout in the undertray, although this is replaced on the SVR with cut out slots in the fender liner I believe.
So, I'm at a loss why people seem to think that the air is hot in this area, or any hotter than being completely open like the GT4 car.
The way I understood VAP mod (i.e. removal of airbox part of the mod) as also removing inlet piping to the airbox (i.e. part 13 in the diagram). Unlike GT4, on my F-type lower fender (shark gill) vents are decorative (i.e. not open, no airflow). Hence, no inlet piping and no fender opening would result in warm engine bay air going into intake.
I too find it odd that positioning intake inlet to where it would likely feed warm engine bay air would result in anything other than creating thermal issues under any kind of performance-minded driving. Considering that many VAP customers also running a pulley, this will further compound this issue when such mods are combined.
FType17, did you modify coolers on your modded cars? Did you coat your exhaust? Reason I am asking is that I am considering a non-invasive mod to address heat soak. I find my 100% stock car running without engine cover is right up to capacity around 35C. On days that warmer than that and the car starts heat soaking after about 10-15 hot laps. That in turn leads to power getting notably cut as ECU starts to compensate. Fortunately, where I live such days are rare.
SinF BINGO! Yes indeed, heat is a major issue on the F-Type, especially due to the positioning of the cat converters and worsening the issue with the AWD cars with the nearly useless hood vents (unlike the RWD ones).
I have indeed ceramic coated the exhaust manifold and run cat-less coated downpipes as well. The outer bumper vents have been cut out (as posted a number of times before in other threads) to allow more air and for the AWD, the rubber flaps above the shock towers have been removed. The intercooler upper diverter (black plastic flap) is also modified, cut back a tad and a new lip is added to pick up air 0.75" higher. The supplemental radiator (intercooler exchanger) was sourced from the XK and it was designed for that grille, the F-Type extends higher. Further, you want to contour the styrofoam that is around the bumper for greater airflow. The Intercooler electric pumps (Hella) gets replaced with the Bosch one (far more flow).
I noticed that others have pointed out the fact that the bumper side vents are decorative, you can remove the bumper cover and cut out the back plastic closer plate. DO NOT use a drill or dremel from the outside, there are wires in the way! (TPMS antenna etc).
Please keep in mind that a ton of road debris accumulates on top of the intercooler radiator, clean it OFTEN as it sits horizontally. ANother benefit of opening the outer bumper vents is that in the driver's side fender-well, there is an additional transmission cooler, this looks like the usual aluminum oil cooler and you can spot it when you remove the front driver wheel.
It was said that opening the vents is detrimental to aerodynamic (fuel consumption)... It does not affect stability (tested at 190mph+) nor did it deform the lower covers
This is a quick video of a system with a different airbox and aluminum tubing (silencer cancel). I am not much into the whine but it's the most I tolerate
The way I understood VAP mod (i.e. removal of airbox part of the mod) as also removing inlet piping to the airbox (i.e. part 13 in the diagram). Unlike GT4, on my F-type lower fender (shark gill) vents are decorative (i.e. not open, no airflow). Hence, no inlet piping and no fender opening would result in warm engine bay air going into intake.
...but the picture that VAP put up in their earlier post clearly shows the ends of the (13) air ducts in place.
I couldn't find any reference to them removing those pipes.
This is exactly as I have fed my itg's, however in my case the mounting position is lower for the filter as I'm more than happy that standing water is not an issue at that level.
This is exactly as I have fed my itg's, however in my case the mounting position is lower for the filter as I'm more than happy that standing water is not an issue at that level.
I would be concerned that without modifying pipe inlet for ram air configuration or putting cold air isolation box around filter cone you end up mostly sucking in hot engine bay air. Have you measured your intake temperature on initial startup and after your car reaches full operational temperature?
With a stock setup that pipe is directly connected to the airbox that in turn is connected with SC. The resulting setup produces vacuum sucking in air at the front of the car. Consequently stock setup functions as a cold air intake, but only as long as everything connected. When disconnected, that pipe is just a narrow vent that doesn't offer much airflow. Keep in mind, supercharger would lose efficiency with warmer intake temperature, so keeping it as cold as possible is a big deal. Drag racers even put dry ice boxes around intakes, it is just that important for power.
Setup where instead of purely outside air you get most/all of warm engine bay air would result in a net HP loss, if for no other reason but because you increased intake air temperature. This is even before heat soak considerations.
At the very least, I would recommend following FType17 suggestion and opening up "shark gill" if you decide to go with such configuration.
I would be concerned that without modifying pipe inlet for ram air configuration or putting cold air isolation box around filter cone you end up mostly sucking in hot engine bay air. Have you measured your intake temperature on initial startup and after your car reaches full operational temperature?
With a stock setup that pipe is directly connected to the airbox that in turn is connected with SC. The resulting setup produces vacuum sucking in air at the front of the car. Consequently stock setup functions as a cold air intake, but only as long as everything connected. When disconnected, that pipe is just a narrow vent that doesn't offer much airflow. Keep in mind, supercharger would lose efficiency with warmer intake temperature, so keeping it as cold as possible is a big deal. Drag racers even put dry ice boxes around intakes, it is just that important for power.
Setup where instead of purely outside air you get most/all of warm engine bay air would result in a net HP loss, if for no other reason but because you increased intake air temperature. This is even before heat soak considerations.
At the very least, I would recommend following FType17 suggestion and opening up "shark gill" if you decide to go with such configuration.
The forward wheel well where the OE filters are mounted and all the aftermarket filters are located has no possible path for hot air from the engine bay.
Forward motion of the car would take any conducted heat rear wards.
At 4k rpm, I couldn't even feel a vacuum draft around any of the openings, below or above the wheel well.
I have had my head right up in the wheel well area after a good run and it wasn't even warm...apart from around the suspension strut that's close to the manifold. The air pickup is well ahead of this.
Several members have extended the top part of the air pickup tube by connecting a round, horn pickup and direct more air into it, but there's only so much that can be directed in.
As I have said, removing the backplate from the Sharks Gill was my intention, however, that would mean a lot more debris pickup, washing and oiling of the filters which I didn't fancy.
Out of interest I'll measure the IAT's this weekend from cold, on a run and post run stationary.
The OEM air snorkels do a great job at sourcing cold air, any kind of ram air routing (such as cutting the front side) serves no purpose other than picking up more debris. I would not touch them.
If you opt for an open cone filter, just open the side vents BUT this only works for you with the car in motion... Good for track use, not good for regular street use with traffic, stops etc... Think carefully of what works bes for your intended use.
I suggest you buy a couple of these from Amazon: TEMPO DISC Bluetooth wireless thermometer sensor beacon and data logger
lace one with double sided tape on the exterior of the OEM airbox (rear, near the fender liner) and one on the grille separation bar (underside and away from the sun) or better yet, inside the oem air filter box, pre filter (bottom cover) and drive around your normal routine. Then pull the data since they run at the same time and under the same conditions to compare...
Well i'll add my tuppence seeing as i have said GT4 intake from DAE which ive been running for about two months.
Power, not sure as already have 640ish bhp and 1-2% extra isnt going to be noticable.
Throttle response, contary to what ftype17 (Charles) says is exactlly the same as before.
Heat soak, haven't noticed any detrimental effect and as Tel said when moving forward any heat that people think is in the void
where the filter is will be negated by the airflow (yes i've opened one of the "gills"
Well i'll add my tuppence seeing as i have said GT4 intake from DAE which ive been running for about two months.
Power, not sure as already have 640ish bhp and 1-2% extra isnt going to be noticable.
Throttle response, contary to what ftype17 (Charles) says is exactlly the same as before.
Heat soak, haven't noticed any detrimental effect and as Tel said when moving forward any heat that people think is in the void
where the filter is will be negated by the airflow (yes i've opened one of the "gills"
What's the point of posting my name? Since you and I have our personal differences, they should not interfere in a technical discussion. please bring FACTS to the table not disagree just because I wrote something about it.
Tel,
I may have missed this, however what is your ground clearance for the air filters. Having installed an aftermarket set up on mine, I'm happy with the increased supercharger whine, but not the ground clearance.
Lawrence
Tel,
I may have missed this, however what is your ground clearance for the air filters. Having installed an aftermarket set up on mine, I'm happy with the increased supercharger whine, but not the ground clearance.
Lawrence
Just been out and measued; ground to underbody/tray of the car on stock ride height is approx. 5"
I angled down the filters at 40 deg 'ish.
That puts the lowest part of the cone approx. 3 - 4" above the undertay.
Using the silicon elbows allows a lot of free movement in the wheel well, I wanted the best air pickup from the snorkel, highest posn for any water, and above all, free from knocking against any bodywork that might fool a knock sensor.
O.K. and thanks.. my cars is up north right now so can't measure, but I think the bottom of my filter is only about 4 inches from the road surface.
Lawrence
Apologies for the lack of participation on here recently. We've just been super busy and growing rapidly and I haven't had as much time to participate.
I know this is something many people have been wanting for a while. There are some very nice carbon options on the market, but quite pricey and not as much SC noise as a lot of people would like. We recently had the opportunity to spend a couple of weeks with a V6 FType in the shop and design something that we think will fit the bill for most people who are interested - checking off a few boxes from functionality, power & sound. This initial prototype was produced in Stainless, purely because we have a lot more bits & pieces in stock to work with when designing and it speeds up the process. Our production parts should be done in aluminum.
One of our goals with the system was to also produce it in a diameter that will work with the V8 vehicles as well, using a couple of different couplers, but we also need to confirm MAF tube diameter, and will need to test fit the kit on a V8 to sign off. The kit encompasses not just the intake plenum but all the tubing & couplers right down to the MAF sensor, as well as a clamp on cone filter with an airbox delete. We've pushed the filter location up high, to keep concerns about water ingress minimized. This combination maximizes both Supercharger noise as well as induction noise, deletes some unnecessary weight from the front end, and should produce some additional power. We didn't have the time to get this car to the dyno, but based on some work we have done with similar kits for the Aston Martins, we expect to gain around 15BHP on the V8, and around 11-12 BHP on the V6.
Some preliminary pictures:
OK, so I'm new to the Forum and I just bought a new 2021 F Type R coupe. Two questions....
1) Is this new system described here, now available for the 2021 model and if so, what is the price for the kit?
2) will the installation of this system cause Jaguar to void the engine and/or the entire power train of the car? In my world, I'd love to get a little more sound, more attitude, out of this beauty...but killing the warranty on this car is too dangerous, in my opinion.
Thanks for your thoughts!
OK, so I'm new to the Forum and I just bought a new 2021 F Type R coupe. Two questions....
1) Is this new system described here, now available for the 2021 model and if so, what is the price for the kit?
2) will the installation of this system cause Jaguar to void the engine and/or the entire power train of the car? In my world, I'd love to get a little more sound, more attitude, out of this beauty...but killing the warranty on this car is too dangerous, in my opinion.
Thanks for your thoughts!
We never went into production for this because we didn't believe we could get the product to market at the right price point (ie, somewhere in between Eventuri and Mina Gallery) and given we have limited capacity we shelved it to pursue some other things we would see better returns from.
05-08-2019, 04:01 AM
