It appears the Jag numbers are dry numbers...no engine, tranny or diff oils, no coolant, no fuel. (~308 lbs)


My V6S was spec'd at 3492 lbs and tipped the scales at 3800.
3670 + 308 = 3978, just about the number that another V8S was weighed at.

 

Paramount makes an intercooler.

 

I really don't think that side of the OEM cooling system is the limiting factor (cooling air to water). We need a larger water to charged-air heat-x on top of the SC.

 

Don't disagree with you, just throwing it out there.

 

I had displeasure of dealing with interment misfires on a blown track BMW I used to race. Having to shut down and restart the car to get power back while on the live track ruins your lap times. The best lap times when everything works just not worth the aggravation when it misbehaves.

 

Alright, all this data is making me lose my mind. One benefit (to me anyhow) is that the TVS R1900 used on the F-Type is the same supercharger used on my CTS-V2. I know the 6.2L is a little more forgiving over the 5.0L, but we can assume the supercharger units are nearly identical, and I have years of experience overdriving the 6.2L. Also, the stock redlines are identical.


On my previous car, I was running a 23% overdrive, which was spinning the blower at 20,700 RPM @ 6500RPM, which I feel safe on the F-Type. I’d say the max on the TVS R1900 is 23,000, so that still gives some wiggle room.


Looking at the attached performance map of the supercharger, it’s safe to say that efficiency falls off at 18,000 RPMs. The benefit of 20,000 will be more power through the curve, so I still want to approach 20,000 with a pulley combo.


There isn’t a lot of data on these cars, at all. Talking to viezu, Velocity, and eurotoys, it appears that the car makes 15 psi stock, crank adds 3.5 psi and supercharger pulley 1.5 psi. But I’m more interested on the overdrive ratios to calculate RPM.


By a previous entry on the forum, we found that the crank pulley provides a 11.8% overdrive and the upper a 8% overdrive? This does equate to 20%, which would put the blower right around 20,000 RPM.



As to the intercooler being upgraded, I am assuming we're talking the heat exchanger. For the V8 models I dont know if anyones reported a problem just yet, but those are simple enough to add on. For what its worth, I did have a bigger reservoir for the heat exchanger, but just a factory unit on my V, pushing 620RWHP.



Catless downpipes will help somewhat with heat. But I’m willing to say here that both pulleys would be a smart investment and should be safe on this engine.
Now just to find a place to sell both pulleys and a tuner to tune for them. And what belt to use.

 

You're certainly on the right path with your thinking. I agree that anything above the 11.8% lower and 8% upper would go well beyond the range of supercharger efficiency on the 1900. I think cooling will start to become a problem (just like the C7 Z06 has dealt with) the more this engine is pushed. This will be a problem at the supercharger, not at the heat exchanger in the grill.

However, something you may not be considering is the engine itself. This AJ133 engine is not nearly as strong as the LS engine you're used to. The LSA block in your CTS-V is a semi-closed deck design which gives the cylinders plenty of stability and strength, where as the AJ133 is an open deck design that is much weaker:

LSA:



AJ133



When an engine gets really hot, the cylinders want to flex, and if they aren't supported they can pop. (Note: This engine was supposedly starved of oil):



This is my main concern when it comes to upping the boost and power on this engine. On top of that I believe the AJ133 has some cast internals, but I have no idea what the LSA provides, so that might be something to think about too. So far, no one to my knowledge has blown up an engine from boost/detonation/heat/etc. due to performance increases, but we've only hit the 600-640 bhp mark, which isn't nearly as high as you want to go.


VAP without question is the company to use. They can offer everything you need, including the belt, and by far are the most helpful and knowledgeable when it comes to tuning. As far as making the most power goes, you should consider colder plugs to go along with your catless downpipes. Chris from VAP might be able to open up the stock cat protection when you remove your cats to help with top end performance, as the car tends to dump fuel when it calculates high temps to protect them.

 

VAP and Eurotoys will have the largest crank pulleys (+18mm, 11.8%). The others are offering +10mm pulleys. Both VAP and Eurotoys will offer idler and a belt as a part of their crank pulley kit that will fit either the OEM or undersized SC pulley. You will have to replace the ribbed idler with a smooth idler, as the right sized belt is not available with ribs on both sides.


Most of the other vendors are offering a 62mm SC pulley (6.1%). I do not know what size VAP or Eurotoys offers, but you can get a 60.5mm pulley (8.8%) from Mina Gallery.


OEM pulley diameters for the V8: crank 162mm, SC 66mm.

 

Super helpful information. Im thinking colder plugs, VAP Upper & lower pulley, smooth idler, ecu tune & some kind of modification to the air cleaner intake. I also agree I dont think this will put the engine at risk. I will monitor IAT/IAT2 and see if the upgraded heat exchanger is necessary.


As usual, thank you unhingd. I put my plans above.

 

I just stumbled across this, it might help: Jaguar Intercooler Radiator Upgrade 3.0/5.0L, Eurotoys,Ltd.

 

Right, so that's at the radiator side, which likely isn't going to be as helpful. You need to physically get more fluid to the supercharger itself. It could be better than nothing, but if the OEM intercooler isn't having any issues keeping temps down in the unit itself, there will be no improvement at the supercharger.

 

A number of people played with intake mods, at least at VAP-tune + pulley power levels it didn't offer any notable benefit when dyno-ed. This leads me to think that intake is not restrictive, or more likely it is throttle body that is bottleneck. I also read somewhere that stock tune doesn't go WOT or fully open exhaust baffles on newer cars/firmware updates. You might get gains just by addressing these.

Have you considered playing with increasing RPMs? Re-balance crankshaft, port everything, put in lighter exhaust valves. This is majorly expensive, but since you seems to be willing to go into uncharted territory with your engine, this doesn't appears to be a consideration.

 

yes, identical to the paramount unit. As Stohlen mentions, this unit would be more effective if there was a way to increase heat transfer surface at the SC.

 

I've decided to go with:


Custom air intake
catless down pipes
upper pulley

lower pulley
new plugs


The only question now is who to have do the tune? Eurotoys has more experience it seems with tuning for both pulleys, while velocityap has experience tuning for the catless down pipes.



any suggestions?

 

Velocity is the crowd favorite; Stuart is great to deal with.

Dave

 

Oh and FWIW, my V8S weighed in at 3846 lbs (wet, no fuel, no driver) and it has every option available 'cept the heated windshield. AWD cars will weigh about 100 lbs more

Dave

 

I should mention that Viezu is also the same exact price for tune as well.

 

...I'd suggest that you don't want to pick a tune based on price

 

I wouldnt. But since they are all the same exact price, im asking for members advice and experience on here.

 

Viezu will not provide the personalized service of either VAP or Eurotoys. Stick with one of those 2.