Thanks for this informative post.

 

Intakes and exhaust mods (apart from cats) will make little or no difference.

 

VelocityAP transmission tune was the difference in me breaking into the 3 second club for the V6. Very satisfied with it.

 

I ordered the pulley and tune along with the transmission tune during the Black Friday sale and just got around to installing it now that the warranty is up on my 2016 R. I did the pulley and tune last week, and to be honest I wasn't totally blown away like I was expecting. I think I may have just overhyped myself due to how dramatic of a difference some people have described here. I don't doubt the numbers VAP is quoting though. I installed the transmission tune last night and took it for a test drive and the two of them together definitely made a difference though. It really pulls hard, and after you get on it, if you let off it's ready to slam you back in your seat right away when you put it on the floor.

It still does have the lag downshifting when you first floor it after cruising steady for a while, which has always annoyed me. Sometimes it takes over a second to do anything, and when I asked the dealer about it they said that's just how it is. Once the transmission is aware you're ready to have fun it seems to be pretty good about dropping a gear quickly though. My solution for that is to pull the shifter over into sport mode before I floor it so it's ready. That said, sport mode or not the VAP transmission tune feels really good when it's going through the gears. I definitely saw it hitting 7K before shifting too, which was cool.

Anyway, I don't have any numbers to post (I did order a Dragy today), but I figured I'd post for anyone on the fence, as a satisfied customer.

 

I've watched all your F type videos on YouTube, thanks posting... very informative and fun to watch the progression. I just picked up a 2016 V6S AWD and plan on doing some work to it. It sounds like (no pun intended) that the muffler resonator delete and the pre muffler resonator delete was a good, cheap mod but the cat delete was too much in terms of volume. Have you thought about the 200 Cell cat? anything thoughts on it?

For the front side, I think I might leave it stock. I don't necessarily want the supercharger whine and from what I've read it doesn't really help with performance. Did you notice any difference? are you thinking about installing the lower intake? Intercooler?

Are you thinking about a Meth/Water injection kit?

Congrats getting in the 3's. that's awesome.

 

Thanks! That means a lot to me that you find the videos interesting and helpful. For the next performance mod, I am thinking about meth injection, but I am hesitant because I don't want to keeping buying more meth each time. I had meth injection on my old car and I had to refill my 1 gallon tank weekly which was annoying and costly.

For the intercooler, I plan on holding off on that for now and just modifying the OEM grill to increase airflow to my Mina Gallery lower intakes. The intake increase sound, but performance is unaffected.

For the exhaust sound, the catless downpipes was too loud for me, but ever since installing $20 mini mufflers, I am not having any issues with drone or harshness:
I looked at videos of the VAP 200 cell downpipes, and I wasn't a fan of the tone for the exhaust, plus they are expensive and won't let me pass smog. I ended up buying used cats on ebay for yearly smog inspection.

Message me if you have any other questions. I'm happy to help.

 

Thanks for the response....

If you were to install a Meth inject kit, where would you consider mounting it?

 

I have a DIY for F-Type. Do not think there are any others (DIY or Instructions) on this car. Lots of ways to do it, but this one works and is nearly invisible.

Thread HERE
or
DIY Doc Directly HERE

DC

 

Thanks man, I just looked over all your DIY PDFs the other day. Nice work and thank you for time and contribution.

I really liked the method you suggested in your install, very clever.

 

Can you clarify what you mean here? You were at 7500 RPM, it hit the rev. limiter, then switched back to D mode with a large sound? Correct?

 

AIUI, if you use the paddles in D mode, the car automatically reverts to D after a number of seconds of no paddle use, nothing to do with hitting the rev limiter.

 

Correct.

 

Hi Doug, hiw did the issue with the tranfer case end? Did it need replacement and are you still running the TCU tune?

 

Hi...

I am not Doug...But it looks like you are referring to my post above.

After a lot of testing at the dealership, this issue simply turned out to be a heat shield that came loose and was touching the driveshaft ...and the exhaust pipe heating/swelling just enough to barely touch a crossmember. Very hard to track down, and the two items together made a horrible sound. All fixed now...No more noises...No issue with TC or Differentials and I AM running the TCU with no issues.

DC

 

Sorry about the name mixup and many thanks for sharing your experience!

 

My pleasure...And no worries on the name

Will be headed to a 1/2 Mile Airstrip race (No Fly Zone) on May 30....Will be interested to see how it does, and how it compares to my 997 TT...

DC

 

Would it be possible to have the tune with no +200 RPM limit?

 

And how about a lock on downshifting in sport mode once you've executed manual shifts? I just finished a day at the local track (likely going out of business to warehouses - bummer). It's a two gear track for all but the back straight - but every now and then I have to back off just a little in the lower gear due to traffic. When I squeeze down to pass, it sometimes automatically downshifts then won't upshift - it drives me nuts. When in Sport and manual, let me be in control!

Chris? thanks. Inman

P.S. this is my first track event since the updated tune and pulley. Scalded dog is an understatement for this car. I'm keeping up with the Turbo S 911 Porsches in the instructor group - with a 500 lb. weight advantage that speaks volumes to this car.

 

I thought the stock box only downshifts automatically when the road speed becomes too low for the engine revs? Wouldn't you already have downshifted manually at that point?

 

You are correct - it's when you go slower. With gazillions of ft.lbs. of torque, however, you don't need to shift that often. Shifting upsets balance when in the middle or exit of a turn and it does what you didn't want. The issue becomes that it readily shifts down and then puts you already at high revs (in this case 2nd gear) which it zips through quickly. It's then time to shift up again - but OH - you're in the middle of the turn still, or near the exit - and oh - it's sport - I won't shift again. You then have to remember (prematurely) to execute another upshift that was never planned.

It's IMHO a shortcoming of the programming. I don't mind being down in revs a little and keeping the gear because then I'll shift up when I want in a bit down the strait.