Has anyone had any problems with warped brake discs on their F type?

 

Do you have 380mm in the front? (Red or black calipers)

 

Some people will tell you that your rotors are warped and need to be replaced. Although extreme heat can cause rotors to warp, in most cases vibration is more likely to be caused by an uneven build-up of brake pad material on the rotor that causes the pad and caliper to move up and down as they grip the uneven disk surface, which you feel in the steering wheel as vibration, shimmy, or judder.

I suggest that you have your rotors checked for build-up and run-out (wobble in and out while spinning) and determine if they need to be resurfaced. Even if your rotors have sufficient thickness remaining to be machined (also called "turned"), my experience is that you're better off to buy brand new rotors as resurfacing leaves them thinner and less effective.

 

OEM setup is phenomenal. Have more than 20 hours of track time over past 3 years and still original pads and rotors and works as it should.

 

I just wanted to know if warped brake disks are a common issue with F types and thought it was best to ask fellow owners. Mine warped after just 15,000 miles, Jaguar replaced the discs and pads under warranty in March 2017. The car now has 23,000 miles and there is vibration under braking once again. The car has never been driven on a race track so that is definitely not the cause of the issue.

 

Mark, if your issue is pad re-deposits, one way to reduce that issue is to leave a car-length ahead of you at all times after a hard stop. (as in: going down a hill with a traffic light at the bottom, or on the end of a freeway ramp)
Then, don't stop, but slowly creep the car so that the hot brake pads don't touch the rotors in one place.

 

Stuart is correct, often the issue is not a warped rotor but one that has embedded deposits on the surface.
I drive mine at very high speed most of the time and brake extremely hard, to the point of major fade however, I never had a warped rotor on the F-Type.
If you use your brakes hard and then you come to a complete stop, keep your foot on the brake, you can cause deposits to embed themselves into the surface of the rotor.

 

I switch to N whenever possible after hard braking (AT) to avoid local heat build-up.

 

Remember that disc brakes do not have automatic retracting systems. So simply releasing the pedal can still lead to pad redeposits..

 

Those are NOT pressed at high pressure into the surface however.
KVO, switching to Neutral on a moving vehicle is not ideal fo the transmission, but yes indeed I try at least and cawl to a red light if must to avoid a full stop, you nailed it, you need to allow the rotors ro cool down and not clamp on them when very hot if not moving.

This is nothing that putting the rotors on a lathe for a light cut will not fix

 

Why assume I would switch to N when moving - I wouldn't be braking anyway if I were moving, and thus no point of switching to N