I think the transmission unfortunately. 2016 F type R AWD 11k miles, yes under warranty. Its quite strange how it happened. I was on a nice windy road today with a few other cars and we pulled over to get a few pictures. Upon pulling back onto the road from maybe 10-15 MPH I gunned it and what appear to be a very small dip in the road was literally under my front tires I'm assuming ( I could barely even feel it nor could I even see it) and that gave the rear tires just enough air to throw the RPMS way up and when the rear tires came back in contact with the ground I lost all power happened in like 1 second, engine spins freely, upon examining the spot I hit we almost couldn't find the dip it was so little. The car won't go into park very easily, it does grab going forward slightly, slipping, and jerking kind of until 10MPH then loose it again. Whats weird is there are zero dash lights on, no fluid so noting cracked. Im hoping this is something like a weak link that is a rather easy fix ( transfer case maybe) as I can't believe how this ZF8 can blow that easy. What happened to me has happened in every single car iv owned common dips, on the race track you name it. But coupled with AWD may have put too much stress and blown the clutches out or something who knows off to the dealership.

These cars aren't build fragile especially the AWD system so I'm interested to see what any of you think, any thoughts?I don't track this car or beat on it.

 

you probably over revved it and then shocked the whole transmission from the impact

 

My guess is it's something in the AWD system other than the ZF8 which has a reputation for being damn near unbreakable.
Maybe the transfer case like you said or the rear diff.
I don't have an AWD I don't know much about them other than that they don't like having the front and rear wheels rotating at wildly different speeds and it sounds like that is what happened.

 

my friends 1200hp trackhawk would like to have a word with you!

 

Don't our cars have a rev limiter? Asking because I attempted a standing WOT sprint and forgot I had put it in !st...oops. Well, it quickly let me know something was not right by going into a state much like old school valve float with some added horrible noises. That was a few weeks ago and nothing seems to have been damaged, but I was surprized the car didn't shut down instead of doing what it did.

 

Mine has, when I discovered it doesn't automatically upshift in manual mode. I got a nice warning icon in the message centre.

 

Have you checked the halfshafts? I saw a 911 turbo shred both front halfshafts in similar circumstances.

 

Wow, Ltrain925, very surprised as you described it. In fact, when reading about AWD before I bought mine I read an article abt how Jag and others test cars at Nurburgring. It was discovered that at some high speed parts of that track, that the vehicles become airborne = no surprise there. However in the early testing, the ABS and AWD would react and encounter problems on landing. It was these experiences that taught the engineers to anticipate such an event, to build in a delayed response in similar situations. I've not had mine airborne, even to the minor degree you describe, yet I have "felt" mine engage in microseconds when needed -- in twisty corners for example. VERY reassuring experience. Maybe yours will be cured by a refresh of the computer which controls the AWD. Let us know what you learn.

 

Hitting redline with the OEM tune produces a horrible cacophony reminiscent of valve float. Redlining with the VAP tune reacts as one would expect. Loss of power and steady backfiring until you back off.

 

Your description depicts accurately what occurred. Are you speaking from a pre-tune experience?

 

YMMV, but my F-type does 1-2 crackles and pulls power for about 10 seconds if I bounce off revlimiter. So lets not attribute to VAP something that is OEM behavior.

 

Yes, pretune. Hitting redline with the OEM tune was a major public embarrassment.

 

Well I can’t get my car to the dealership because of this pandemic they are closed, been on a waiting list for a month. Anyways I found out the code that is thrown is “P215B” looks like an issue between the speed sensor and output shaft. Everything under the car is in place and nothing is broken. So I’m stuck until I can get to the dealer. Hoping this is a simple fix.

 

Given that your stuck with nothing to do, try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and see if things reset. Not great odds, but easy to try.