I've been looking for lighter wheels in the 22 or 23 lbs range...


I was shocked to learn how heavy the factory wheels are:


Thank you for contacting the Jaguar Customer Relationship Center.

I appreciate your inquiry. I can advise both wheel styles (Blade & Tornado) have the same weight:

• Front 9.0J x 20 - 15.5kg (34 lbs)
• Rear 10.5J x 20 - 17.0 kg (37.5 lbs)

I hope this is helpful and appreciate the opportunity to provide this information to you.


Do you all think spending $4000 to get lighter wheels will be worth it (better handling, etc..)...some have said no...its hard to believe

 

Are you subtracting the value of what you may get by selling oem wheels?

 

When I go that route, I'll spend twice that for 14 lb CF wheels (still saving my pennies and waiting for a decent design). Reducing unsprung weight by 80 lbs is huge.

 

I didn't consider selling the oem rims (blades)..maybe I should... I priced PUR rims (RS-07) at $10000 (CAD, inc taxes)


PUR WHEELS


brilliant silver...if I had $10K I would get these....they have F Type fitment available..

 

Who did you get pricing from? I could only find about 4 or 5 ma & pa shops in the US that carried PUR and none of them actively.

 

from this shop in Calgary:


TUNERWORKS PERFORMANCE INC - Calgary, Alberta, Canada

 

What is the sidepocketing they refer to? I see they have 3 f types in their gallery. Not sure I could see my white coupe with the white and black set.

 

Unless you are already getting that last second out of the car on a road course or autox course, you'll likely not truly notice the difference. After the spending the money, you'll likely think you notice it, but it will mostly be placebo...

 

20 lbs/wheel? Believe me, you notice it, particularly on less than perfect surfaces.

 

People feel what they want, especially when spending money. If it makes someone feel good, great. However, it's really pointless to spend money on light wheels for the street. People should focus on wheels than can be repaired or replaced easily for standard street driving.

If the car is used for competition, as I mentioned before, then yes unsprung weight should be reduced as much as financially possible.

 

The oem blade wheels aren't cheap. You may good some decent money for them.

 

so did you actually found any wheels, I am currently looking for some light weight performance wheels too

 

$10,000 for 80 pounds? Perhaps my definition of value is different….give me $5k and I’ll save you 40 pounds - it involves running in a trash bag.

kidding aside, as another response said, 80 pounds isn’t nothing, but unless you’re running consistent 10.02 times just have to get into the 9’s, or you just love the rims, it seems like there may be other alternatives.

 

If an F-Type R weighs about 3,800 lbs loaded, and has 50/50 weight distribution, then each tire has about 950 lbs on it. If we assume a sprung weight of 120 lbs (wheel, tire, brake caliper and rotor, and a bit of the upright), that gives a sprung to unsprung weight ratio of 120/830, or 0.144. Swapping in wheels weighing, oh, 10 lbs less, gives a ratio of 110/820, or 0.134. So the question becomes: will the driver be able to detect that 1% change?

 

I have the v6S, and found that swapping to forged rims (much lighter than the OEM's) made an enormous difference in steering and in particular direction change. There is also a slight feeling that the rears skip a little if I go over a bump around corners.

I should caveat that I was going from 19's to 21's and also changed tyre make, but even accounting for that I am certain that the wheel weight has made a fundamental improvement to the handling of the car. it feels much more capable.

 

Has anyone here in the forum measured their times after converting to lighter rims. Is that measurable?

 

You can't compare unsprung mass to sprung mass, unsprung components like wheels, tires, brakes etc. are always in motion. You know that fancy aluminum suspension we have? One benefit is unsprung mass. The less mass you have associated with your suspension in motion the more responsive your tire will be to undulations/imperfections on the road, which leads to better contact. Also keep in mind rotating mass as well, angular momentum is reduced with lighter wheels (or brake assemblies or tires for that matter) which can lead to better acceleration. The latter is probably less noticeable on a 3800 lb car, but reduction of 80lbs of rotating mass makes a much bigger difference that 80lbs of static mass (also depends on distribution of mass from the axis of rotation). Lighter rims and tires can definitely make a positive difference in the performance of your car, it's not placebo. Most stock rims are heavy to provide extra resiliency/reduce manufacturing cost.

 

If your that serious maybe do the other expensive weight saving things?
The lovely Wortec 2 piece brake rotors are pretty cool looking too!
How about one of those outrageous lightweight lithium batteries?
Maybe some CF body panels?

Heck I saw a Alfa Romeo with CF front seats! The guy told me it was only a $5000 option!!

How low can you go? (In weight that is!)
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Anyone knows where I can find a good set of performance wheels...5k/10k doesn't matter, some pay more than that just for looks, I use my f type r for competition , the extra weight loss would be perfect for me

 

I havent, and there are so many variables I reckon it would be nearly impossible, because the difference would be likely a second or so out of under 90 on a small, tight track. But it is not a placebo effect, when I had mine done I wasnt expecting to notice it other than the ride, and the car fairly danced through corners, roundabouts*. It was the biggest improvement to enjoyment of driving I have experienced. And even in the Mustang, substantial improvement going to forged 20's over the OEM 19's.

But if you arent powering out of corners and doing fast direction changes, you probably wouldnt notice the difference.

*I did go to 21's, wider rubber, michelins with the change.