Hi All - Well, after over 2 months I finally found enough free time (and nerve) to dive in and try Rock's great PDF steps to add a spoiler disable/override switch. Rock foresaw that my wiring may not match his and added the diagram above, but I was hoping for the best. (I have a left hand drive model with details in my sig block below.) I popped off the driver's footwell trim with fingers crossed that I would get lucky and my wiring would match his picture, but alas it does not. (my middle name is "Murphy"...). Some wires are similar, some are not. I have done some googling trying to match up pics such that I know for CERTAIN which wire to cut and splice in the switch but have struck out so far. His picture is on the left, mine is on the right. So I am posting here hoping someone may have the answer or at least point me to a diagram like the Rock did above but matches my setup. I guess one question is - although I think I am in the correct fuse block - am I? Thanks in advance for any info or advice.

 

Also a question: My 2017 R matches the picture Rock posted. The Yellow wire goes under a wire bundle and looks to be in a very restricted place to cut and splice. Do you remove the gray connector to make it easier to cut/splice? If so, any trick on removing the connector? Or does the connector somehow releases the Yellow wire?

 

I think the Rock must have been bashed by the Porsche people with the disclaimers on each DIY. Really, we are more laid back on this forum ;-)

 

Agreed and good question - there was not much slack in any of the wires I tugged on, and as you know if you have contorted yourself down in the footwell, it is not easy working down there. Cutting the wire, stripping the ends, then (I assume) using crimp connectors to attach to the switch wires is going to be challenging to say the least. Any useful hack ideas are most welcome.

 

Hi...I did it with it in place. It is tight....But I am "persistent" / Hard Headed. If you do want to unplug it for easier access....YOu have to press the large tab at the backside of the plug and pull like a Bi@tch to get it out....But it will come. Hope that helps.

DC

 

Haha...You would think so, but actually have just worked with litigation and businesses a lot during my life so extra cautious. That said, there are no shortage of ****** on the Turbo Forum

Reminds me of a joke I always tell at car shows (only because I have Porsches, so no one get all ruffled)...And it goes like this...Do not read ahead:

Do you know what the difference is between a Porsche and a Porcupine??.........
.
.
.
.
.
.
.With a Porcupine....The ****** are on the outside

Take care,
DC

 

Well...That is unfortunate. Must have changed for 2018. That is definitely the correct fuse black, but missing quite a few wires. Not sure why...Again, they must have changed for 2018? If I come across anything that may help I will post it. Good luck. I guess another option would be to tap directly into the motor wiring....Just a bit more work.

DC

 

Hello,

i am digging out this threat eventhough this is my first post in the forums. Thanks btw DC i ve been following all your threads considering the wings.

I installed today the piecha wing on F-Type R.

The shop decided to remove the gear from the motor (in white in the picture) instead of cutting the rods.


I still get the error in the dash: "Wing not operable" after 100mph. Do i need to cut the rods if the gear has been removed?
Also the hatch now wont stay open because of the weight of the wing. Is there a solution to that?

Thank you

 

I have disabled my spoiler (OEM) by disconnecting the wiring plug (shown in your pic at the bottom of your circle and also obviously disconnected) and I also get that message on the dash at 160 km/h (100 mph), so it looks like you are stuck with it.
As for the hatch staying up maybe your struts have become a bit weak with age and new ones will fix the problem?
I also vaguely recall reading somewhere on here that you can get stronger struts.

 

Thanks OzXFR,

i didnt do the modification myself. The shop where i did the wing installation chose to remove the gear from the motor instead of cutting the rods. Which is i guess easier to return to original.
As far as I understood they left the wiring plug connected. Do you by any chance have an item number for those struts? I cant seem to find anything over the search.

Thanks for the help though

 

In your pic the plug is obviously disconnected, it is showing one half (the female half) of the plug and the other half is nowhere in sight, my guess is it is sitting to the left out of shot. Which gets me to wondering, if the gear really has been removed maybe you can reconnect that power plug to avoid the error message but still have a disabled spoiler? It's not that hard to access the plug I have a post around here somewhere with the details.
I know there are one or two posts if not threads around here somewhere about new/replacement hatch struts, maybe a bit of searching will unearth them.
Also it depends on whether you have a power hatch or a manual hatch as they use different struts, on the power hatch the motors are part of the strut which makes them quite expensive.

 

Ok so I went back to the shop and told to do everything just like in the piecha instructions. We tested the motor of the wing with everything back on and it was working as intended.
We disconnected and cut the rods. We connected all the cables back including the motor and the 2 plugs on the side and STILL the error comes up after 100mph that wing in not operable.

Does the wing deployment need to be coded out? I also noticed that the hatch makes more rattling noises on high speeds and bumps, anyone experienced that with a fixed wing?


All plugs are plugged in and still the error code appears.

 

My fixed wing was a factory fit and no rattles at all.

 

I actually found out what the rattling is. Its the trim pieces on the side of the hatch. There are 2 pieces on the left and on right that come together. (one along the window area and one from the bottom area)
There is a small gap between them and on bumps they rattle. I ordered new struts and hopefully i ll receive them soon. It is kinda difficult to order parts fort he F type is seems. It seems i have to code out the deployment function with the DSS there is no other way around it.

 

Not so. There is another way around it that the Jaguar Sport Design spoiler uses. It comes with a module that replaces the motor unit. It obviously mimics the response to the actuator. I just looked at the instruction sheet I got with it and there is no separate part number listed for it. If I were installing an aftermarket fixed spoiler or just wanting to disable the stock one I'd try to figure a way to build a similar module before cutting any hard parts.

 

I actually have the part number of the module the part number is: T2R18586 . It is just REALLY expensive and difficult to sort.

 

That is a dilemma. The wiring diagram I have is not the most helpful. It's not clear to me how it detects that the spoiler has reached fully up or fully down.

 

bump

 

I got one of those mongoose cables to disable the deployment on SDD. Is it safe to do that without power support? Does that take long? In the DIY I couldnt find any info on how long it takes or if its safe to do without power support on the vehicle.

 

Could be current monitoring. Would spike at the end of travel both ways.