Good chart.

I like the better efficiancy of it in combination with controlability, ie spraying based on volume of air.

 

Here is a nice looking $13 controller from ebay
Automatic Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat 12V 110V 220V Control Switch | eBay

And here are the $10 65 w coolers
Most Innovative 40mm Copper Tec Thermoelectric Peltier Cooler Acubite Ted | eBay

That and a 30A relay, some wire, a master switch, a tiny led to know when it's drawing power, and I think I'm good to go!

less than $2 digital thermometer here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T2-Digital-L...item41750b9250

 

So would you put the cooler in the fluid? Or attach it to the outside?

 

Check that, I just read up on how they work.

 

Pretty brilliant little devices, aren't they?

What were the people smoking who came up with this idea, or things like the MRI machine?

 

Have played with them to cool processors, they must be cooled pretty well as the heat output is double of the cooling power iirc. Would calculate 1st what you need in cooling power (amount, temp difference and within what time), 30 amps seems low when taking various losses of the system into account.

 

Not to get off topic, but I used to manage a free standing MRI clinic and those things are nuts.

So are you using a metal container to pull the water/meth from? I currently use my windshield washer bottle to hold the fluid.

 

I'm also using the windscreen bottle. I'm thinking of cutting out the proper sized holes, then epoxying on thin aluminum over those holes to mount the thermal electric coolers to....what do you think?

Back off topic...MRI machines read the spin of the protons..an amazingly novel idea!

 

Did some research on this cooling the water idea:

In talking with my father, who has a 160+ I.Q. (don't ask what happened to me heh....)

He told me that the majority of the cooling was the changing of state of the water from liquid to gas, that the numbers are something along the order of:

water in liquid state, to raise the temp of 1cc 1 degree c = 1 w
liquid to vapor to raise that last 1 degree of 1cc = something like 200 w

So it takes something near 200x the energy to take water from liquid to gas, and this is where the tremendous heat absorption/cooling with the water injection/evaporation comes from.

So if we are able to cool the water another 40 degrees, we would be getting something like only 20% more cooling effect. I'm not thinking this is worth the complexity and time investment.

So, given this, I think I am going to abandon this idea and spend my time on more fruitful ventures.

As an interesting note the energy needed to go from ice to water/solid to liquid is something like 80x, and from liquid to gas is something like 200x, where as moving the temp while liquid to liquid is 1x. These are ballpark numbers, +/-15%

 

The airco unit is much more efficient then pelletiers, and the energy needed for cooling takes place during normal driving, of which you take advantage during wot situations, that’s where the added value is coming from. Of course the pump for the water/meth kit is consuming energy during wot (even if you don’t cool the fluid), and to behonest I can’t tell if the small droplets from these kits can be considered vaporizing even...

Anyway you can only come toa good calculation if you take everything into consideration (i.e. energy used outside wot usable during wot and more airflow all the way into the combustion chamber due to the denser charge for example).

But the one thing I agree with, which I already don’t like about normal Water/Meth kits, is the added complexity especially if there is a dependency for it. Yet I do like its cleaning power, and occasional use for adding the ability for running much higher boost levels than normally possible.

As said, it was just athought.

 

It was a good thought in general. These things just need to be researched out. Not everything will pan out, but this is how progress is made. It was a good germ idea, something may still come from it.

I am quite sure that by the time the water injection droplets leave the Heaton, they most certainly have vaporized and absorbed the 200w per cc/ml, so the cooling effect is pretty high there, more so because the Eaton is so inefficient. Since I will be adding a lower pulley, I'm considering the water injection a must. The price was right at less than $300 for a used one.

You have a very good point on not depending on the meth as fuel, and the potential disaster if it does not function properly. My intention is to run more water than meth because I don't want to depend on the meth as fuel, and water has higher heat absorption capability. When I finalize my tune it will be based on water only injection and 91 octane pump gas so as to err on the side of caution. The reason I asked about the 51/49% mix was that it would have a much lower freezing temp which would have been useful if we were cooling it a lot.

Another big benefit of injecting before the blower is it helps it be more efficient, and should add 1-2 lbs of boost. ( my boost gauge will tell how much when all is tested very soon )
For $199 I had my rotors coated with a slippery coating that is immune to meth, fuel, etc.

 

I have noticed that the car pulls harder with the water/meth mix even on hot days. I still use washer fluid so everything is starting to take a blue tint to it. I did install a small (green) led light on the cluster to let me know when the pump is actively squirting water/meth it.

I could use to run a boost gauge as I have no idea what it is currently producing. Where did you mount yours?

 

I am in the process of mounting a boost gauge now. In keeping with my "sleeper mode" XJ8 badge, etc, the gauge lives under the dash, but when I want to use it, it will temporarily attach to the A pillar with a strong magnet, the same with my afr gauge.
So by the time the Mustang or camaro sees it, it is already too late , if they are stock, that is.

You never can tell with these mustangs if they are 425 HP or 1000+
I've had my *** handed to me more than once by Mustangs, but it's all good when the Jag looks as good as it does, and I'm expecting to get my 2000 XJR down to a 12.7 1/4 mile or better.

 

Scratch that magnet idea, moving the gauge around seems just too fussy.

I'm going to mount my 2" boost gauge in front of the tach, nestled in the bottom area ( 6 o'clock ), and my 2" AFR gauge also in the 6 o'clock position in front of the fuel and temp gauge. I'll test that location with some velcro to see how I like it.

 

Here is a photo showing the boost gauge installed and wired.

I'll try it here for a while to see how I like it.

It is not obscuring anything I need to see so it may stay here.

 

Not bad. The S-types have the worst, more boring gauge I have seen

 

They came back from ceramic coating. Look good.

And a quick peek of the new WaterDragon in the garage

 

re - nameless cats - I had to ditch the copper flange gaskets they supplied, after everything was tight, right side bolts still felt funny, so I ran a feeler strip around and still had 0.008" gap along one side, I fitted Jag factory composite gaskets - end of prob.

 

I just ordered a set of factory gaskets to have on hand for the install.

Thanks for the heads up

 

Started my car with the new Nameless Cats. No exhaust leaks.

Boy does it sound healthy now