Adding Nameless Cats, should I heat wrap them?
#1
#3
#5
All the exhaust insulation I have ever seen is upstream from the cats; and the cats have not been insulated. Insulating upstream tends to lower underhood temperatures a bit and helps light up the cats a bit sooner. Insulating the cats themselves is just not done, by anyone in my experience.
#7
I sent these off to get ceramic coated last week so they should return this week.
I will have to wait to install them until after I've re-installed my blower. I'm expecting it's arrival early next week.
I want to re-assemble the engine with blower, check to see if there are any problems, and if not, then add the cats, the Boost a pump, dyno and run the 1/4 mile, then add the +4 lb lower pulley and see what that does.
I'm afeeered that if I make too many changes at once and have a problem, it would be more complicated/difficult to locate and fix, so I'm taking it more one step at a time.
I will have to wait to install them until after I've re-installed my blower. I'm expecting it's arrival early next week.
I want to re-assemble the engine with blower, check to see if there are any problems, and if not, then add the cats, the Boost a pump, dyno and run the 1/4 mile, then add the +4 lb lower pulley and see what that does.
I'm afeeered that if I make too many changes at once and have a problem, it would be more complicated/difficult to locate and fix, so I'm taking it more one step at a time.
Last edited by WaterDragon; 08-08-2013 at 07:07 PM.
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#9
The cardinal rule is to try to change only one thing at a time.
All I will have changed is:
Ported TB
Ported elbow
Ported 5th gen blower, slippery rotor coatings that tolerate meth/fuel, etc, rebuilt blower with proper tolerances, none of this common .003" in front of the rotors garbage that can cause them to rub the case when the blower gets hot
upgraded to all aluminum tensioners
changed spark plugs to Denso U-groove one step colder
changed oil to Royal Purple 5w30 w/synerlec
upgraded the inter cooler pump and reversed the direction of flow
changed all hoses- while the super charger was out
put in new knock sensors-while the super charger was out
added 100 feet of wiring for my new:
Water injection
Inter cooler 12" pusher fan
inter cooler radiator water mist
Boost gauge
3 relays for the above
I'm waiting until after it all checks out to add the 92mm maf and larger intake tube, high flow cats, BAP, 4 lb lower pulley, tune, later LSD
So that is all, for now...
All I will have changed is:
Ported TB
Ported elbow
Ported 5th gen blower, slippery rotor coatings that tolerate meth/fuel, etc, rebuilt blower with proper tolerances, none of this common .003" in front of the rotors garbage that can cause them to rub the case when the blower gets hot
upgraded to all aluminum tensioners
changed spark plugs to Denso U-groove one step colder
changed oil to Royal Purple 5w30 w/synerlec
upgraded the inter cooler pump and reversed the direction of flow
changed all hoses- while the super charger was out
put in new knock sensors-while the super charger was out
added 100 feet of wiring for my new:
Water injection
Inter cooler 12" pusher fan
inter cooler radiator water mist
Boost gauge
3 relays for the above
I'm waiting until after it all checks out to add the 92mm maf and larger intake tube, high flow cats, BAP, 4 lb lower pulley, tune, later LSD
So that is all, for now...
Last edited by WaterDragon; 08-06-2013 at 03:14 PM.
#11
Less chance of air bubbles getting into the pump:
The way it was running was the water spills down from the coolers then into the pump. If there is any air bubbles in the system, it can fry the pump.
By running it backwards the water is sucked from 1/2 way down the radiator after the air bubbles would have had the opportunity to travel to the top and out the overflow small tube.
The way it was running was the water spills down from the coolers then into the pump. If there is any air bubbles in the system, it can fry the pump.
By running it backwards the water is sucked from 1/2 way down the radiator after the air bubbles would have had the opportunity to travel to the top and out the overflow small tube.
The following 2 users liked this post by WaterDragon:
Michael Star (08-06-2013),
ONEsicJAG (08-15-2013)
#12
Here is my post about the inter cooler plumbing change
From the factory, the water is pumped from the pump into the radiator, then up to the charge coolers, then back to the pump. It seems to me, that in this arrangement it is much more likely to get an air bubble stuck in the impeller and fry the pump.
If one were to reverse the flow as seen in the photos below, then the pump, in theory, should be already gravity fed pre primed with fluid and much less likely to get an air bubble stuck in it.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ckwards-98938/
From the factory, the water is pumped from the pump into the radiator, then up to the charge coolers, then back to the pump. It seems to me, that in this arrangement it is much more likely to get an air bubble stuck in the impeller and fry the pump.
If one were to reverse the flow as seen in the photos below, then the pump, in theory, should be already gravity fed pre primed with fluid and much less likely to get an air bubble stuck in it.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ckwards-98938/
Last edited by WaterDragon; 08-06-2013 at 11:59 PM.
#13
#14
One board member I talked to told me he ruined his rings and had to pull his motor because the Killer Chiller made the evaporated water in the air condense back into liquid as it passed the charge coolers.
Knowing that happened to him, I'm going to avoid that happening to me, and sharing this info in this post, any one else can avoid repeating that engine killing combo
He sold me his old water/meth injection kit, which is now the one I will be using.
Last edited by WaterDragon; 08-07-2013 at 10:55 AM.
#15
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#16
Maybe a couple of thermo electric coolers attached to the reservoir bottle would do the trick. I'm thinking a killer chiller might freeze the water.
#17
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#19
As said it’s just a thought.
For controllability I would go for a chiller system that can be switched on/off based on desired temps (think the RX one can). This setup would be very effective in only cooling a relativly small volume of substance, which will last much longer than chilling the intercoolers continuously (ie 1/4 mile run), and ideally use a temp switch so the unit doesn't have to run when you have reached a desired temperature.
#20
Ok,
approx 50/50 mix of water/meth has a freezing point of -40C/F to -60C/F
per http://www.methanol.org/Technical-In...Solutions.aspx
This is a very good idea you have here...I especially like the idea of cooling the air before it gets to the 82mm TB, making the air cooler/more dense before the TB is a fabulous way of negating some of the limitation of the small diameter of the 82mm intake track.
Rather than spend the $899 on the chiller, I'm going to try (3) $10 65W thermo electric coolers with small heat sinks and fans and then insulate the reservoir. This way I can likely accomplish the same thing with much less complexity and for less than $100, which is more my speed
approx 50/50 mix of water/meth has a freezing point of -40C/F to -60C/F
per http://www.methanol.org/Technical-In...Solutions.aspx
This is a very good idea you have here...I especially like the idea of cooling the air before it gets to the 82mm TB, making the air cooler/more dense before the TB is a fabulous way of negating some of the limitation of the small diameter of the 82mm intake track.
Rather than spend the $899 on the chiller, I'm going to try (3) $10 65W thermo electric coolers with small heat sinks and fans and then insulate the reservoir. This way I can likely accomplish the same thing with much less complexity and for less than $100, which is more my speed
Last edited by WaterDragon; 08-07-2013 at 12:34 PM.