I have a Dunlop Brake Master Cylinder that is ceased. What is the best option? Rebuild kit, replace (Girling), SNG lists a Dunlop to Girling conversion kit, etc.. If replace how much modification is required?

Ray

 

I put a new one on, not sure what make it was but it had to have a spacer and longer studs

 

Have it stainless steel sleeved & fit a new rubber kit. Did my whole car that way . Master cyl's, clutch slave, calipers the lot. Ideal for a low use car. No more corrosion worries even if you are a little lazy with brake fluid changing which I don't suggest. Brake fluid is hygroscopic.

Most new brake master cylinders require some pipework re-jigging due to changed port positioning

BTW ~ they bore everything back to original spec so that standard OE rubber kits fit.

Remember these cars have single circuit brakes so the braking system needs to be maintained in top condition to prevent a failure.

 

RMerkley: If you are looking for a source for rebuilding your existing master cylinder, these folks do excellent work:

Brake Sleeving & Rebuilding Services – White Post Restorations

 

For anyone my side of the pond I used:

All hydraulics, stainless sleeving & PAS recon by Summit Brake & Steering, Rivonia, Sandton

 

See this thread about sleeving material and what's best.

Jim Walters is in Canada and he can does excellent work, he's 45 minutes from me and I've seen his shop.
He's 3000 miles from you, but at least you don't have to suffer the exchange rate or delays over the boarder.
He's in Cobble Hill here on Vancouver Island B.C.

(look for Jim Walters' first post a few down)

Australian RR Forums: Seeping Brake Master Cylinder, 51 Mark VI

 

I remind people that there are many "stainless steels". I did not look into composition as Summit are old pro's at this task. I do know the seamless tubing they start with is manufactured in Australia.

 

Hi All

Thanks to Jeff I was able to source a Canadian company to sleeve the Cylinder, thanks Jeff! But before I go ahead I wanted to confirm what other parts I will need to rebuild once I get it back. I looked on the Moss Motors website and they show 2 items that look the same. I think it is the Seal Kit Dunlop Master Cylinder #605164. Does this seem right? Is there anything else I need?

Thanks again for all of the advice and direction, it is very helpful.

Ray

 

Ray,
The guys that recon'ed/sleeved my cylinder for my late 65 S type had all the required rubbers.

The above might or might not fit. Looks very similar to mine.

Dunlop changed the Cylinder around your time & you need to check your VIN. They talk about red tags (page 25). My unit had standard metal tag like yours.

Read this Jaguar bulletin in detail re Master Cylinders. They are addressed a number of times amongst the other guff.

Tried to attach here ~ too large.

https://www.terrysjag.com/3.8%20L%20...%20Service.pdf

 

Thanks Glyn, my Chassis Number is 159265 (RHD) so is after the first Bulletin. I will check with the pardon doing the sleeve to see what they supply.

Ray

 

OK. Then you have the updated Dunlop cylinder like I do. The only slight issue we had was the latest inlet piston seals. They are all just marginally thin from multiple sources. Sometimes we had brakes & sometimes we did not. This was due to the seal sometimes not closing the inlet port & fluid returning to the reservoir instead of pressurising the brake system. Common issue.






Full update/reconditioning kit which we both have as per factory bulletin:




Inlet Valve piston. (the standard of finish on Dunlop braking components is atrocious.)




End of piston vs rubber seal ~ insufficient protrusion








We turned down the end of the inlet piston slightly to ensue adequate seal protrusion. Brakes perfect. Have checked many inlet port seals. They all seem to be manufactured slightly too thin.

Finished job for proper sealing..





Good luck!

 

BTW ~ as you are obviously using Jim Walters for the sleeving presume he will be using 660 bronze for the sleeves. Let us know how it goes. The tribologist in me is interested. Although I'll probably be long gone before a meaningful outcome. I have no issue with the use of 660 bronze vs the correct stainless steel. Either will do a fine job in this application. Wear of the cylinder lining is not going to be an issue. There are a lot of old wives tales out there.

 

I like your statement Glyn, "660 bronze vs the correct stainless steel", the word "correct" being the operative word.
It assumes and implies that the bronze sleeve is incorrect.

You've been hanging around Primaz too much.

After poking at the hornets nest now, I'm sure I'm going to stung. ​​​​​​​

 

Not at all. I think they are both fine choices. No issue whatsoever. Both are proven in the application. (partially lubricated rubber against cylinder bore material at a specific finish).

Quite happy to expand my comment to "correct choice of SS" (out of many) as 660 is a good choice of bronze (out of many). I also believe that 660 bronze is likely much easier to work with. We should not consider SS to be soft in applicable grades however. It's a lot harder than 660 bronze ~ approx X 4). Similar to grey cast iron.

All a matter of application &/or lubrication. e.g. it is no surprise that surgeons scalpels are made from 440, 420 or 316 SS & not 316L with it's low carbon content.

I also said "Either will do a fine job in this application."

No such implication intended. My lancets are fully retracted.