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I've run 10/30 in both my 340 Jaguar and my MK VI Bentley for decades, and all the mechanicals are in good condition.
I just fitted a reconditioned cam shaft to the Bentley, and all the lifters are in good condition; that was after 21,000 miles from a complete engine rebuild.
Never add anything to the oil. Shell, Chevron, BP/Castrol, ... spend a fortune developing and testing their products. They employ world class tribologists, chemists and engineers. They know what they are doing.
Apart from that, Jaguar made a big effort to ensure a more than adequate supply of lubricant to the camshafts of their engines unlike some other manufacturers for whom adding a tube or drilling a hole adds too much to the cost.
Well, I've got a new issue, something with the transmission/overdrive. I drove it a little over 10 miles today with no issues. I just tried to drive it and it started acting like the brakes were dragging. It shifts ok, and there were no odd noises or indications of a failure. With the engine off and the clutch disengaged and in a forward gear it will roll backwards but not forwards, with it in reverse it will roll forward but not backwards. In neutral it rolls fine in both directions.
The overdrive controls are not connected and it has not been tested. The transmission and overdrive fluid levels are correct. I have to assume the overdrive engages when the solenoid is activated or possibly when the lever on the overdrive is manually engaged.
Well, I've got a new issue, something with the transmission/overdrive. I drove it a little over 10 miles today with no issues. I just tried to drive it and it started acting like the brakes were dragging. It shifts ok, and there were no odd noises or indications of a failure. With the engine off and the clutch disengaged and in a forward gear it will roll backwards but not forwards, with it in reverse it will roll forward but not backwards. In neutral it rolls fine in both directions.
The overdrive controls are not connected and it has not been tested. The transmission and overdrive fluid levels are correct. I have to assume the overdrive engages when the solenoid is activated or possibly when the lever on the overdrive is manually engaged.
Anyone got any idea what's up?
I figured it out, the overdrive was partially engaged. I moved the manual lever a few times and that must have relieved the pressure in the pump assembly.
The oil pressure has been about 40 psi until today. This morning the pressure was down a few pounds after driving a few miles. I just drove it again, now the pressure is around 32-35 psi at 2000 rpm, and about 15 at 500 rpm.
When I assembled the engine the sump pickup tubes replacement O-rings did not fit correctly. The original O-rings appear to have been replaced when the engine was assembled by the previous owner and were a better fit than the replacements.
The bearings clearances were within spec and should not be an issue as far as oil pressure goes.
Is it possible the pressure relief valve spring is weak? Or are the pickup tube O-rings not sealing correctly?
it's IS possible the pressure relief valve spring is weak (i've recently purchased one and have yet to install it) but i would first suspect that it may be held open by debris as it doesn't take much. i would also HOPE that it is debris. ha
Faulty gauge and/or sender.
The only way to be sure is test with a bourdon tube type gauge.
When I first got my car the oil gauge would be all over the place, and sometimes would rest on "0".
I knew there was nothing wrong with the engine as an engine with zero oil pressure makes a tremendous racket.
I ended up installing a mechanical gauge from a Mini, and changed out the chrome bezel to the Jaguars painted type.
The gauge has been in there for more then 30 years, and has never leaked, or given any trouble.
I just used compression and pipe fittings to install it.
I took the original sender, removed the electrical parts, then drilled and tapped it to 1/8 pipe thread.
I just drove it about 30 miles. A little timing correction brought to life. The 3.4 is very impressive, plenty of power for this car. It's much more fun to drive, and the exhaust sounds like no other, it's great.
Oil pressure issue. The car originally had Auto Meter gauges, electric not mechanical. I've ordered Murphy Switch Gauge industrial mechanical gauges for coolant temp and oil pressure. They are equipped with adjustable contacts that can be used for warning lights or shut down.
I checked the oil pressure relief valve and didn't find any thing out of place. The pressure now reads 24-30 PSI no matter what RPM, and that's with the Auto Meter and a basic mechanical gauge. I'll probably try replacing the pressure relief spring.
There are a lot of little items that still need addressing, at least I can attempt to complete the engine break-in now.
The oil pan is leaking in the around the sump pan, it's a stamped steel pan with a sump pan brazed on. The block has a slinger type rear seal. Is there an aluminum pan that will fit this style block?
Jaguar owners weren't kidding about oil leaks, mine has plenty. A special thanks to the member that mentioned "diapers" for oil leaks. I'm using pig mat held in place by rare earth magnets, it's not perfect but does help.
I'm currently using generic plug wires. The plug wires need to be replaced, is there any real benefit from using high performance wires, like MSD 8.5mm?
I'm currently using generic plug wires. The plug wires need to be replaced, is there any real benefit from using high performance wires, like MSD 8.5mm?
If you're running points, either use resistor wires or plugs, not both.
You can also install resistor caps by NGK, they have a wire wound resister inside at 5000 ohms, so use solid core wire and no resistor plugs with set up.
I like NGK resistor plugs because, like their resister caps, they use the same wire wound resistor inside, they are very accurate and reliable _ my opinion.
So if you install your MSD wire, which is a low resistance performance wire, then install non-resister plugs.
from what i've read there is no common agreed upon consensus other than that resistor wires can reduce RFI. i don't question that. and that in turn will eliminate, or at least suppress, distortion in radios. but if your TD has a radio and you have a habit of listening to the AM band and are not satisfied with the quality of sound you may want to use resistor wires.
personally, i use solid copper-cored wires, but i don't have a radio (i listen to everything on my earbuds via my smartphone) but do run a fully electronic distributor with all the electronics enclosed in the distributor housing and i am more than satisfied with the performance of the engine and ignition....thus far.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; Jul 26, 2024 at 12:40 PM.
I'm currently using generic plug wires. The plug wires need to be replaced, is there any real benefit from using high performance wires, like MSD 8.5mm?
The only time high performance wires are needed is if you have high performance coil.. 3.0 ohm coil for points, 1.5 ohm coil for early electronics are all fine with standard 7mm ignition wires... If you go to .6 ohm coil, or less (stage II or III) with 45,000 Volts, you can get arcing from adjacent touching 7mm wires. Standard wires for an 1984 XJ6 S3 jaguar available online or at any auto parts store, will be fine.
Rgds
David
Last edited by David84XJ6; Jul 26, 2024 at 02:57 PM.
The only time high performance wires are needed is if you have high performance coil.. 3.0 ohm coil for points, 1.5 ohm coil for early electronics are all fine with standard 7mm ignition wires... If you go to .6 ohm coil, or less (stage II or III) with 45,000 Volts, you can get arcing from adjacent touching 7mm wires. Standard wires for an 1984 XJ6 S3 jaguar available online or at any auto parts store, will be fine.
Rgds
David
Pertronix BRITISH DISTRIBUTORS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, GENERAL INFORMATION
1. IMPORTANT: Read all instructions before starting installation.
2. For 12-volt negative ground systems only.
3. New spark plug wires may be required.
4. Solid core spark plug wires MUST NOT be used, Pertronix ignitions need carbon-suppression, or spiral-wound wire.
5. Many vehicles came equipped with ballast resistors or resistance wires. To achieve optimum performance, we recommended removal of these components.
From HotRod Magazine article ref’d by Pertronix support page
“A solid wire offers virtually no resistance, as it was designed to deliver the maximum amount of spark from a low-output ignition. This type of plug wire is perfectly suited for a points-style distributor (but NOT one that's been converted to electronic!) or with a magneto; used with an electronic ignition, a solid wire cannot protect the sensitive components like a properly insulated wire can.
A carbon-conductor wire, on the other hand, does offer the shielding characteristics needed for a "basic" electronic ignition (with the terminals acting as resistors), however, its high level of suppression (designed to prevent noise/radio interference) equates to reduced spark travel.
A spiral-wound or induction-type wire offers the same or more high suppression as a carbon-core, but unlike its predecessor, has the low resistance necessary for optimum spark, making it perfectly suited for performance ignition systems. “
NGK 54393 ultra-low resistance mag core wire set. (This is My personal choice, Blue looks nice too )
