Those NGK plugs should have worked just fine with the solid wires, most resistor plugs are around 5k ohms.
Measure you coil resistance across the primary winding's (the negative and positive terminal), if it's 3 ohms or more then an external resistor isn't required, if it's 1.5 ohms or less, then you need an external resistor.

The Jags that I've come across do not have a resistor wire in the loom, so a 3 ohm coil is needed. If yours is 1.5, the it will still work just for starting purposes, but for everyday use it will get quite hot with out an external resistor, especially when idling.

It should start now, we've pretty much gone over everything that I can think of.

 

Hi Folks,
Thanks for all the input in chasing down my "no start" problem. As we all know, there is a reason for everything, and I know now what the problem was all along. While waiting for help to lift the head back on yesterday I found the original ignition rotor in a pile of bits and decided to clean it up and use it rather than the new aftermarket one I had tried. I went to put it on, gave it a little turn, and the shaft turned. Group silence, right? Pulled the distributor and sure enough, no pin in the drive gear. I have no explanation for this oversight, other than maybe some poorly timed distraction. I'm usually over meticulous with assembly procedures but surely dropped the ball on this one. Totally my mistake. I'm just glad I found it (fluke/rotor swap) because had I not, I'd still be chasing the problem. The fact that the engine actually ran is what led me to all the second guessing re timing/ignition/fuel etc., all of which were adjusted perfectly all along. Even when I thought I was 180 out it was because the the shaft had stopped exactly pointing at #6. Once all back together with new found hope, I barely touched the starter and the engine started instantly and just purred. Sounds beautiful! Big sigh of relief going on here needless to say, can't wait now to take this thing for a spin. Thanks again,
Seann

 

I was checking this post a couple times a day and now this morning _ OH oh... There's Seann again.
Well, I did say it was an ignition problem... Just kidding...
I would have never thought too look for a missing roll pin _ I would have found out (like you) by accident.

This reminds me of a time with my dad's P5 Rover, him and my mother were driving and the car just stopped.
The bronze gear that drove the distributor had totally worn away.
My dad was too cheap to get one from the dealer so he rebuilt it with brass rod and silver solder.

Another mystery car problem (not ignition related).
My brother in law had a Beaumont with a 350 in it, started and ran OK, but as soon as you booted it or went up a hill, it would cough and hesitate.

Went over everything, just like here _ my dad never did figure out what was wrong _ a mechanics teacher of 35 years.
He eventually went to one of his former students whom had set up shop locally _ he knew right away what it was _ I'll leave you to take a guess.

Anyways, so glad you happened upon the problem, but at least you discovered the bent valve _ the car would have ran pretty rough with that.
If it hadn't of ran _ I was fresh out of ideas what to suggest.

 

float level?

 

That was one of the things I did check _ tore the carb apart of course.
Worn cam shaft lobes, apparently there were some years where the shaft was kind of soft.
That, and if I remember the valve springs in those engines were quite strong.

The exhaust valves weren't opening enough (and long enough) to let all the burned gasses out.
So at faster speeds and under load, the excess would choke the combustion chamber.
It had hydraulic lifters too and that made things even worse.
Because the lobes were worn the lifters were not traveling their full distance _ this kept the lifters from getting enough oil _ which exasperated the problem.

 

Great story- those kind of things are very frustrating! That however, is one of the reason's I like basket cases. You are starting from scratch, and have to check everything. Then at least you know what you are starting with!

 

Never would have guessed the cam...tough one! Re Jag, in all my reading I don't see any schedule for cylinder head re torque...yes/no?

 

There is a sequence for cylinder head torque- I assume re-torque would be the same?

 

I'm aware of the sequence, the time frame is the question....hours? miles?

 

Aluminum head _ cast iron block.
After the first drive (good and hot _ poodling around town doesn't count) _ retorque after a total cool down.

I check mine once a year to 6 months depending on how much it's driven.

The important thing is to have the threads on the nuts and studs lubricated.