Does the heater box have to be removed to get to the clutch and brake master cylinders fasteners? 1967 340

 

On a RHD ~ No ~ On a LHD I don't know. Hopefully someone else will answer ~ I doubt it however but it may make things easier.

 

No you don't have to remove the heater Box on LHD cars to reach the fasteners. This is an S Type but the same scuttle, master cylinders & pedal box. They are ahead of the heaterbox. Remove your aircleaner.

 

Just finishing the replacing of the clutch master on my LHD 3.8s. To get the clutch m/c out, I pulled the brake m/c, which means pulling clevis pins on both pedals - lots of bending while kneeling in the footwell.
I did not disconnect brake m/c, as there was some play in the lines.
As usual, a problem cropped up - the clutch fitting flats had been damaged enough so that a fitting wrench would not fit. We disconnected the line at the rubber flex line at the fire wall and took it all out and filed down the flats so we could get a wrench on it.
We put a replacement clutch m/c in; of course it comes with a stirrup that is not like the original - too wide for the original clevis pin. (we'll try to get a longer clevis pin, otherwise pull m/c and swap to original stirrup)
The replacement rubber clutch line is a little shorter than the original and the metal crimp on each end is rather long, just about touching one of the Cyl Head acorns - typical repro part.
The replacement clutch slave cylinder was held in place with 2 bolts, a 5/16" and a 3/8", which entailed enlarging the hole on the slave for the 3/8" ( I believe that there were originally studs on the bell housing for the slave)
The rigid line from from the slave to the firewall had a crimp in it, so we made a new line using the original fittings.
Glad I am not paying shop rates for this.
Lots of effort here - unfortunately no one gets to see it...

 

Yes ~ there were threaded studs on the bell housing. One of mine was stripped so I had to go oversize on the bell housing end & re-cut threads. I made a stepped stud that I could control with an Allen Key and all was fixed, Bit of a fiddle but worked out fine.


Mine ~ stainless steel lined.



Original with suspect spring mounting.