MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Brakes - removing front rotors

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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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JohnRear's Avatar
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Angry Brakes - removing front rotors

I am trying to remove the front rotors on my 65 MK2 jaguar but I cant get the old rotors off. The rear brakes are grabbing and it appears the whole hub is off alignment on both sides. any information is greatly appreciated.

John
 
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:05 AM
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Welcome to the forum John,

I've copied your question to the MKI / MKII forum. members here with the same model will be able to help.

Graham
 
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 12:30 PM
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Pictures will help. Working on both front and rear?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 10:37 AM
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The rear disc is centred by shimming the caliper. You do need the drive shaft end float to be correct otherwise you will never get it right.(I know to my experience). Hope I am not stating the obvious but, the front disc should come off once the caliper is removed, the castle nut and pin removed, this should allow the disc to be pulled off. Assuming the disc turns, thetwo bearings should not then be ceased tight.Therefore nothing left to hold it.!!. barry
 
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the reply Barry, I have had the front calipers off and the crown nut and thee bearing removed, its loose and it is turning ok but something is stopping it from coming off.
The rears have a very slight wobble on both sides even when the wheel is on you can see it, it must be something in the rear axel. I can feel the brakes grabbing on the pedal. My booster is disconnected as it cause my engine to smoke when I engage the brakes.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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Just a really obvious assumption, but you have removed the entire caliper housing, not just the pistons them selves ???
The caliper housing is held in place by two vey large bolts behind the dust shield.
Also if the car was ever driven with dry bearings, the inner race can over heat and become seized on the stub axle. When this happens people just leave things in place and pack it with more grease as best they can, but by that time any damage has been done and the added grease hides allot of sins.
Although you did say you got the bearings out, so that would have been the outer-most bearings with the inner race.
I'm wondering if the dirt/water/dust seal somehow has become stuck on the back of the stub axle area ??? Hmmm.
That would be strange if that happened.


The wobble in the rear wheels may be caused by someone banging on the axle ends trying to get the hubs/rotors off, in other words they damaged the axle.
You need a very big puller to get the hubs off to service the rotors.
If someone tried with a less then adequate puller they may have bent the tapers on the end of the axle.
As for your booster, it needs an overhaul, it's so worn out, brake fluid is puking out the front seal of the slave cylinder and entering into the main vacuum piston. Here the vacuum of the engine is sucking the brake fluid into combustion chamber and causing the smoke.


The only thing that I am sure off in my diagnosis is the vacuum booster, the other things with the brakes are just possible scenarios.
It's very difficult to tell with out pictures or a video or two.


If you have a digital camera, even a cheap one, most can take videos well enough so we can see what's going on.


Here's a thread over at JCNA where I am talking about what puller I used versus the Jaguar Churchill tool.


http://www.jcna.com/forums/view.php?...0&Vthread=8361


The tool I used.


Amazon.com: OTC 6574 Universal Heavy Duty Hub Puller: Automotive Amazon.com: OTC 6574 Universal Heavy Duty Hub Puller: Automotive


The photos in my thread over at JCNA were adapters I had made to make sure the puller wouldn't distort the axle ends.
 

Last edited by JeffR1; Jul 23, 2014 at 09:38 PM.
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