Hey folks, I need to buy a Malpassi fuel pressure regulator (with filter) for my '62 MK2, and am wondering if anyone here has installed one, and can tell me which model and/or part # they are using.

...When I go on Malpassi's page, there's a no way to know which model I need for this car.

...and fwiw, if anyone knows of ANY fuel pressure regulator (designed for carbs, so low pressure) available that has some kind of visible pressure reference, be it a gauge or some form of scale, that can be mounted in the engine bay of a MK2, I'm all ears. And if it incorporates a filter, all the better.



Thanks!

 

If you're running the correct pumps, what do you need a fuel regulator for, or if you don't like SU, then Hardi ?
Volume is needed, not pressure, no more then 2 to 4 pounds, so the pump doesn't over-come the float valves in the carburetor's.

Looking at the sight, it doesn't say at all what to expect; turn the cap nut for more pressure or the other way to decrease it.
Why don't you ask them if no one here knows, but no one has never asked about this that I can remember, and I've been here for while.
We'll see who else comments about this.

Fuel Pumps - HARDI Automotive (hardi-automotive.com)

 

I have had a gut full of SU pumps in my 60 years of Jaguar ownership.
I run Facet type pumps in my MK1 and MK2 which are both 2.4 s modified with SU HD6 carbies.
I use fuel pressure regulators set to 2 PSI and that works very well. I find 3 PSI can get a bit "iffy" on the float bowls and 4 PSI is just too much for the floats to handle.
HARDI pups seem to be scarce on the ground in Australia.

 

Hey Jeff, thanks for chiming in.

The new pump was one of the first things I bought in the effort to rectify the fuel dumping issue, the thinking being that since it's the original fitment, I assumed that along with sorting the float needles, it was enough to fix it.

So, since it was so bleedin' expensive I'm just going to keep it, and adjust the pressure downstream.

 

just a thought...you didn't mention the problem you were trying to solve or the symptoms that lead you to believe that you are in need of a fuel pressure regulator, but in any event, and assuming you think your pump is defective and putting out too much pressure, or possibly too little pressure...

pressure in a fuel hose is in part determined by the cross section of the inside diameter of the hose and anything inside it. if there's an obstruction up to or near the float needle, like the filter on the hose right at the entrance to the float bowls for instance, a fluctuation in pressure can be expected at the needle, i would think. (i'm assuming the carbs in my mk2 have a screen filter in the fuel line connector right at the floatbowl like many SU carbs do. but i'm willing to be corrected, yet again, if that's not the case. )

but to give you a direct answer to the question posed in the title of the thread, my answer would be that a fuel regulator was never a factory item and so, is unnecessary. and even if a fuel pressure regulator solved the problem, it would most likely just be masking the real problem.

i would be looking closely at the fuel lines, floats and fuel cutoff valve in the floatbows,first. if nothing is found i would research the expected pressure coming out of a working fuel pump (which i don't know) and determine whether or not the pump is the source of the problem.

BTW, a quick google of fuel pressure regulators show a number of simple two port regulators with gauges attached. they don't look to be too expensive. i suppose one could be used, if set properly, to easily determine how much pressure is in the line.

 

The Hardi unit SNG Barratt sells is perfect for any 1960's Jaguar. I have 2 of these in my S Type. Used by Porsche until EFI. Perfect pressure provided for any SU Automotive Carb. The Petroleum Industry has had enough of the lack of SU pump reliability. The most unreliable pump on the market globally ~ and yes we have the numbers.

 

Refresh thread for edits.

 

Standard Jaguar metal pipe is 8mm = 5/16 inch. ID

 

Hey thanks Huey for chiming in.

Fwiw, this is all about an ongoing issue with fuel blowing out the float bowl vent tubes...car starts from cold, runs perfectly...for much longer than it takes to achieve full operating temp...and then after shutting it off for enough time to heat soak, it starts right up (always), but stumbles and misfires when any load is attempted.

I pull over and let it idle (it almost always idles just fine) for a few minutes or so, when it calms down and off we go.

Real-time EDIT;

What I just discovered, is that when looking up the data on the Moss page re. the pump I bought (all part of my "full disclosure" policy in this saga ), the p/n I have on my invoice isn't listed on the catalog page. It's 377-161, just in case anyone knows it.

I will contact Moss tomorrow, and find out what the pressure rating is before I waste one more minute of anyone's time...


..

 

Thanks Glyn.

I have this, albeit in copper, which as you know is std. replacement sold by most vendors.

 

How do I know. Fitted new pipe & checked against a Series 1.5 E Type 2+2 LWB.

Fuel pipe lower. Cunifer brake pipe upper.

 

Copper is not original. Ni-terne plated is. Same is wiper rack drive cover. Brake pipe = Cunifer

 

chris, i had similar symptoms. starts fine. soon enough blowing raw gas out the overflow tubes and underneath (because of he positioning of the ends of the tubes on my car, though others may suffer different results) the car's floorboards and then into the interior. sitting at lights had my eyes watering. it was gag-worthy. turned out the head was cracked.

i know... not something you want to hear. and BTW, a cracked head can be cracked in a number of different places, each of which may result in a unique set of symptoms. i.e. oil mixed with water, loss of compression, over-heating, etc.

 

That is a most unusual cause of fuel running out of the Plenum Chamber drains.

 

It's coming out the float bowl drains.

 

Ha!...wouldn't that be just a kick in the head.

Fwiw, I suspect it's not the case with this car - it runs like a scalded cat, and stays at 70c on the temp gauge in California weather.

However, sooner or later I'll get to the bottom of it all...patience man, patience is what I keep telling myself.

 

Chris, if that's what's happening and you have replaced the needle valves, check the float bowl fork setting, as well as the floats themselves.
Check the floats by putting some fuel in a container, push the floats (one at a time) till totally immersed and hold for a minute, it should bob to the top and float.
I'm going to assume that they're not cracked, and they float squarely in the fuel.
Check the centre spindle that the float slides on and make sire it's smooth _ the inside of the float too _ check for oxidization on the brass in the centre of the float.

When I set up the float level, I go a bit bigger then 7/16.

If the float level is set correctly, the fuel level on the jet bridge should be about 1/16 below the bridge _ I prefer 1/8 of an inch.
That also helps the AED from getting too much fuel as well at 1/8 of an inch.

 

Excuse my error. The situation is still strange even from the float bowl drains. Cracked head EXTREMELY UNLIKELY.

 

Refresh page for edit.

 

I'm with Jeff ! excellent advice in his post ! IT's apparently simple to make sure the float bowls are NOT the issue. I've heard one can hold them down in a container of warm water and check to make sure you don't see any bubbles coming out..Best of luck !
Schmitty