MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Which fuel regulator for 3.8 MK2?

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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 11:54 AM
  #21  
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over heating due to the cracked head caused over-heating which was boiling the fuel out the floatbowl overflow tubes. ...it can happen.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 03:25 PM
  #22  
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Cracked head EXTREMELY UNLIKELY. Zero overheating reported. 70 deg C. Read OP's post 16. If it was boiling the fuel it would vaporise.
 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 30, 2024 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 04:52 PM
  #23  
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glyn,

my last post was not to suggest that the OP's problem was necessarily overheating caused by a cracked head (as the OP so kindly noted as a response to my post) but that it was merely a possibility, and in my case a reality. and all caps in bold is considered shouting in a forum. am i correct in thinking you were not shouting?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 04:57 PM
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I had this on my old S-Type and it was the float levels as mentioned above but what happened was one of the floats developed a leak and sank and so I bought a new one and then the other one did the same a few months later.and after that it never ran properly, fuel came out of the bottom of the inlet and it stuttered when pulling away but once going it went well (but was doing around 9mpg!).

It turned out that one of the floats was faulty as it was a bit heavier than the other, a new float and the problem was solved.

I appreciate its unlikely but I spent a huge amount of time trying to figure it out so though it worth mentioning.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 05:08 PM
  #25  
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I was most certainly not shouting. Merely highlighting. I'm a Tribologist now retired from a Supermajor US oilco. I fully understand the float issue. I replaced both of mine at my carb rebuild. See my profile. This is a business I know backwards. The shouting must be a US thing ~ certainly not global. I traveled globally 230 days a year for decades.
 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 31, 2024 at 02:30 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 05:23 PM
  #26  
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You can see my S Type restoration in my signature.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 05:35 PM
  #27  
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I am a Super Moderator & Ambassador at MBWorld with 20,000 posts ~ a rod for my own back ~ the number of e mails I get weekly is staggering. We certainly don't consider highlighting as shouting there. We are the Jewel in the Internet Brands Automotive crown. A sister forum to this one where I come for fun.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffR1
Chris, if that's what's happening and you have replaced the needle valves, check the float bowl fork setting, as well as the floats themselves.
Check the floats by putting some fuel in a container, push the floats (one at a time) till totally immersed and hold for a minute, it should bob to the top and float.
I'm going to assume that they're not cracked, and they float squarely in the fuel.
Check the centre spindle that the float slides on and make sire it's smooth _ the inside of the float too _ check for oxidization on the brass in the centre of the float.

When I set up the float level, I go a bit bigger then 7/16.

If the float level is set correctly, the fuel level on the jet bridge should be about 1/16 below the bridge _ I prefer 1/8 of an inch.
That also helps the AED from getting too much fuel as well at 1/8 of an inch.
The floats were both verified as being buoyant, but that's where it ended.

I shall check the other points when I'm back with the car...thanks Jeff.

...and I will let everyone know whatever ends up being the cause(s) of this little mystery, upon verification that it's....finally....over.

It's what one does, amirite?
 

Last edited by Chris Scott; Feb 5, 2024 at 03:25 PM.
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