MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Mark !! Fuel Pump Installation

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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 09:05 AM
  #21  
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Glyn, We may improvise, fabricate, or find a suitable alternative, but we never bodge. We employ professional restorers to do that.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 11:16 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Is the fuel smell actually in the boot in which case you have a minor leak at a union somewhere or at the rear of the car where the breather tubes need checking on both the metal pipes attached to the tanks & the long nylon loops (7 in diagram) should on no account be done away with or shortened.

What brand of pump is that? Is it max 3psi. The usual & best replacement by far for the SU Pumps is Hardi from Germany that fits into the standard SU mount & is not polarity sensitive (plug & play ~ fitted by Porsche pre EFI). Smell your new pump.

Soak fibre washers in fuel or fuel/light oil mix overnight before fitting in a sealed container obviously
Mine is also German, a Hüco (now Hitachi). I think you're right on the fibre washer weeping vapour. Do you think the green gas tight one would work better? Alternatively, what about copper washers?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2023 | 05:38 PM
  #23  
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Stick to fibre washers and soak before use. Huco pumps have given endless trouble in areas with 10% alcohol laced fuel. Keep an eye on it for failure if you live in such an area..
 
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Old Feb 9, 2023 | 07:08 PM
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Glyn, have you ever reused the fibre washers by soaking again, or do you find they "crush" and become non-reusable ?

There's this Loc-Tite product I use that forms a seal under pressure that I have had success with when reusing these fibre washers.
Loc-Tite 518 (from memory)
It's dyed purple and smells like vinegar.

Never had it dry out.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 06:32 AM
  #25  
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Yes I have Jeff. Thanks for the Loc-Tite 518 tip though. I love their products and even used them (Loctite 480) on my rear screen to hold the chrome beading in place (evil job on an S Type). It goes into a channel in the rubber glass side but caps over the rubber body side ~ a real female dog.


 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Feb 10, 2023 at 06:55 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 06:45 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Peter3442
Glyn, We may improvise, fabricate, or find a suitable alternative, but we never bodge. We employ professional restorers to do that.
LOL ~ Well said Peter ~ I love it
 
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 07:38 AM
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I appreciate that most people here know better, but I'll speak to those who don't, which includes too many professional mechanics (and plumbers). Don't over tighten seals and washers, especially fibre and rubber ones. Treat them as advised by Glyn and Jeff above and others according to application. Tighten nuts or whatever retains the seal firmly and no more. Check by eye that the surfaces are closed and in contact. Check again that everything is tight, but don't overdo it. Pressurise the system and watch (or smell) carefully for leaks. Check again after a few days. All seals have to be compressed enough to contain pressure, but crushing them to death ensures that, if they don't leak immediately, they'll fail later.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 10:14 AM
  #28  
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Hallelujah! ~ Very wise advice. You're are not working on a vintage steam engine pulling too many coal trucks on a train track, and even then prudence is advised.
 
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