If you can hear bearing clack when you step on the gas the chances of the engine not needing the crank to be cut is close to zero.

That does not mean that you cannot just do a bottom end rebuild.

 

ok ok.

do you mind putting that in Inglés ?

no understando.

do you mean the crankshaft might NOT be damaged?

I was told by Tom before he died to shut the engine and don't run it. So I removed the battery, and drained the tanks. Car has sat since then, and I never drove it again once I heard the clacking. I was worried about the noise, so at least in theory, the crankshaft cannot be damaged. I also understand these crankshafts are very tough.

Another mechanic told me the noise might be the rivets of the flex plate but Tom had already confirmed bearings, and by the way, the oil was drained and there was gold dust or particles in the oil. Most def. Bearings.

 

No ~ I mean the crankshaft WILL 99% be damaged/worn ~ especially if bearings are worn down to their copper backing & making a noise. You won't know until you put a micrometer on the crank pins/journals but I'll bet on it.

 

in that case, Enter the 4.2 engine swap and drive until it also gives up. It's just an engine swap, the block and head are identical to the 3.8, even the motor mounts are similar.

The issues I mentioned are not deal breakers, I also like the idea of the torque reduction starter. Just to try it.

As to the alternator, I am considering the one being sold by Retro Air that has the adapter for the power steering. $575.00 is a lot but the generator just doesn't keep up.

 

anyway many thanks for all the info and advice. I'm going thru with the swap because a complete rebuild is around $6 grand US and frankly I don't trust any rebuilder around here.

 

Suggest you run that 4.2 before fitting it to your car & make sure all is well & that it develops decent oil pressure hot. Check compression etc.

 

Have a drool here !!
https://angliacarauctions.co.uk/clas...-mg-wa-saloon/
and here
https://revivaler.com/mg-sa-saloon/

 

Yes, I expect we will be doing that. The mechanic was an MK-2 owner and did the same swap in his car. He was also an aircraft and helicopter mechanic during Vietnam, nowadays he builds hot rods, and maintains a collection of Porsches for a doctor. If he doesn't know what and how, I don't know who would. He is also an old friend so I can bark at him if something is not up to par.

 

Fraser I doubt any WA were built LHD, correct?

 

As you know I rebuilt mine myself but had a workshop do the machining for me, ie the rebore and valve train. With the machining and parts it cost me £1500 or $1850 and that was five years ago. I would hate to think how much it would have cost if I had given the engine to someone to strip and rebuild at £60 an hour labour.

 

Cass and Glyn,
I know a mechanic in Nashville who would rebuild the bottom end for around $2,700. and also there is my nephew in Nashville who would probably do it for less. The issue is I am in Florida. Transporting that engine to Nashville (800 miles) is a chore.

With the understanding that I have NOT removed anything from the S type yet, my intention was to rebuild the steering box sending it to the business you posted above, sending the carbs and intake to Joe Curto, famous for his SU work, and so on.

There is no question I would prefer to keep the 3.8, that engine brought me from San Francisco to Nashville doing 80 to 90 mph 2,900 miles almost nonstop without complaining or burning oil. I have lots of memories, respect and esteem for that old Jaguar, but apparently as soon as it reached 83k miles it started to require engine work.. Funny that the DG250 transmission that so many complain about, has been totally reliable, never any problem with it since that trip from California.

 

Why not have a look in the sump before commiting to an engine replacement, having a crank reground, new bearings and a new oil pump would very little if you did it yourself. The help of a good workshop manual would make this simple and the only thing you really need is a set of sockets, spanners and an engine hoist.

 

Homer,
I would like nothing more but unlike you guys, I know little about rebuilding engine internals.

I can dismantle and reassemble an entire car, but no engine, transmission, or differential work.

Sure if I found someone willing to do it I could help, I have a machine shop near who does hot rod engines, they have every kind of industrial machine to steam engine blocks, precision grind crankshafts, heads, you name it, so all I would have to do is cross the street with the parts. But as for removing a crankshaft by myself, that is beyond my knowledge. I do have an engine hoist.

the funny thing is that the engine idles normally without tappet noises or valve or piston noises. It is only when you step on the gas that you hear the clack clack clack.

yes if I could get that resolved I would prefer it.

 

The XK engine is actually fairly simple to rebuild, its just that everything is quite big and heavy. If you get a haynes manual (if you can get those in the USA possibly on ebay?) then that will tell you step by step how to dissassemble and reassemble the engine. If you can take a car to bits and put it back together the engine won't pose any problems for you. Just follow the instructions and take the components to a machine shop for assesment and machining as required. There are lots of people on here and other forums who can advise you on anything you struggle with.

 

Homer,
I have the original blue service manual that came with the car, it has a few foldout pages showing a blowup of engine internals, and instructiona on removing the engine with car on the ground, etc.

I have studied the crankshaft servicing but it is still beyond my knowledge, requiring micrometer measurements and tolerances which I frankly don't want to mess with.

this morning I located the shop owner of a shop called Strictly British near me. The shop was closed don't know why. I sent him a message through the British Car Forum where he is a member since March this year. He had a mechanic who also checked my engine and was going to do the bearings and crankshaft inspection then the shop closed. lost contact with them until today.

Waiting for a call from Bill the shop owner.

 

What was the oil pressure when the engine was running? Was it clacking or a heavy knocking with a drop in oil pressure

Rebuilding an engine block like the xk is really nothing to worry about. With the 3.8 you don't have to worry about the long head bolts snapping way below the deck or the block cracking a definite advantage!
Putting new bearings in, inspecting the crank journals and checking the clearances with plastigauge strips is pretty easy.
I f the crank needs regrinding then picking a decent machine shop which is familiar with old engines is the hardest thing. The machine shop will grind the crank supply the correct oversize bearings and the end float bearings.
But I also understand the need to just get it sorted by fitting a new unit.