Potential purchase of a 340
Chaps
Seriously tempted by returning to the mk2 fold by purchasing a 68 340 Auto. As such, I seek advice from those who know better.
Bodywork - no rust in the usual areas, no serious bubbles or blemishes. Dark blue.
Chassis etc - Looks fine, crows feet OK, sills OK, stainless exhaust, surface corrosion.
Engine - Timing chain rattle - hopefully the top one - fairly easy fix? Could do with a good tune up, no smoke though, electronic ignition.
Box- Kickdown absent, seems smooth enough.
Interior - some work to be done on the wood, seats and carpets fine
Wire wheels - surface rust o nthe rims, could polish out.
All in all pretty decent, no obvious major faults, may get it for 14K.
Thoughts very welcome, anything in particular I should look out for?
Many thanks
Mark
Seriously tempted by returning to the mk2 fold by purchasing a 68 340 Auto. As such, I seek advice from those who know better.
Bodywork - no rust in the usual areas, no serious bubbles or blemishes. Dark blue.
Chassis etc - Looks fine, crows feet OK, sills OK, stainless exhaust, surface corrosion.
Engine - Timing chain rattle - hopefully the top one - fairly easy fix? Could do with a good tune up, no smoke though, electronic ignition.
Box- Kickdown absent, seems smooth enough.
Interior - some work to be done on the wood, seats and carpets fine
Wire wheels - surface rust o nthe rims, could polish out.
All in all pretty decent, no obvious major faults, may get it for 14K.
Thoughts very welcome, anything in particular I should look out for?
Many thanks
Mark
Mate,
See if you can arrange a compression test with the engine warmed up. The T/C rattle could be just a matter of re-tensioning. Also, worth a quick look under the carpets, under the rear seat and the spare wheel well. Check also the scuttle vent, to see if it opens & closes OK.
Mine was rusted solid and was a pain to sort out, also a small rust hole in the bottom of the plenum chamber for the heater had allowed ingress of water resulting in rust holes on the passenger side front floor. The plenum chamber was full of gum leaves, but fortunately no koalas or flying foxes.
See if you can arrange a compression test with the engine warmed up. The T/C rattle could be just a matter of re-tensioning. Also, worth a quick look under the carpets, under the rear seat and the spare wheel well. Check also the scuttle vent, to see if it opens & closes OK.
Mine was rusted solid and was a pain to sort out, also a small rust hole in the bottom of the plenum chamber for the heater had allowed ingress of water resulting in rust holes on the passenger side front floor. The plenum chamber was full of gum leaves, but fortunately no koalas or flying foxes.
As per Redtriangles advice, also check rear spring hanger boxes and where the Panhard rod connects to the body.
Has the car had a respray ? Check with a magnet wrapped in a cloth for filler in the bottom of the doors, wheel arches, cills etc. also look inside the front wheel arches for arch repairs, if they have not been done well you will spot that easily.
What condition is the underseal in ? This can cover up many many sins, if there are areas that are at all loose/not solid you need to know whats going on underneath it.
What's the mileage, and what history can you inspect ?
Has the car had a respray ? Check with a magnet wrapped in a cloth for filler in the bottom of the doors, wheel arches, cills etc. also look inside the front wheel arches for arch repairs, if they have not been done well you will spot that easily.
What condition is the underseal in ? This can cover up many many sins, if there are areas that are at all loose/not solid you need to know whats going on underneath it.
What's the mileage, and what history can you inspect ?
The seat cushion is very easily removed as it just sits on a couple of pegs. I would say it is essential you check this area as it will reveal any really serious rusting around the spring hangers.
Another test is to jack up the car at all four jacking points. The rears are especially prone to rot out.
Of course if there is photographic proof or rebuild work you can be more relaxed. Are you familiar with the Mark 2 Jaguar or know almost nothing ? If the latter, try to get hold of the book on the Mark 2 by Thorley. Also read-up as much as you can on these cars. If I had room, this is the car I once had that I would have again, as the style is perfect for me. I had mine in the 80s, but now they're a lot older so need very careful checking.
Another test is to jack up the car at all four jacking points. The rears are especially prone to rot out.
Of course if there is photographic proof or rebuild work you can be more relaxed. Are you familiar with the Mark 2 Jaguar or know almost nothing ? If the latter, try to get hold of the book on the Mark 2 by Thorley. Also read-up as much as you can on these cars. If I had room, this is the car I once had that I would have again, as the style is perfect for me. I had mine in the 80s, but now they're a lot older so need very careful checking.
I have a rear bumper for a 340 if needed, without the two overriders, just the bumper, in mint condition, chrome is brilliant. A rare part made only for 2 years, the thin bumper same as the S type or 420, but only used in the 240 / 340 / 380 Series.







