Hi Folks,


I'm about to start re-fitting most interior trim after a bare metal re-spray on my 1965 3.8 "S" type.
The front and rear windscreens were re-fitted by the garage (but no trim) and I've got to re-fit most of the furplex, door rubbers, side windows, all bright work and woodwork, plus glue down some of the headlining material near the front & rear screens.
This will be the largest "car job" I've tackled to date, and I'm hoping you good folk will share some of your knowledge with me, so:-


Heading-I suspect this should really be held in place by the screen rubbers, but my head lining may have been slightly damaged. What adhesive is suggested for securing it?
Similarly, what adhesive for the "Furplex"?
Do the door shells have to be removed in order to install some of the door rubbers, and what adhesive for the door rubbers?


I think the order of work ought to be as below, but would welcome your thoughts:
a) secure the odd pieces of headlining
b) secure the Furplex
c) secure the waist height brightwork
d) install the interior wood (some screws go behind the door rubbers)
e) install the door rubbers.


Any information or tips will be very gratefully received. I'm terrified of damaging the new paint, and will use lots of masking tape etc around any work areas.
I understand the windscreen bright work is a pig to fit, any suggestions or tips on this?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give, Richard Hinds

 

The front of the headlining is held with glue plus a couple of shaped pieces of varnished wood screwed into the steel above the windscreen, the screen seal does not secure it. However at the rear the headlining is glued into the rear screen aperture and the glass is then put back in. You must make sure no glue is visible beyond the rubber seal. Of course, at the sides, the headlining is secured to the tacking strip with staples using a staple gun (tacks were previously used when the Mark 1 and early Mark 2s were produced).

The Furflex is also held onto the tacking strips with staples. Securing Furflex is an art, as you can end up with it too slack and then the backing material can be seen. How do I know ? Yes, you're right ! It needs to be tight but not too much, so the trims push it out into position when you insert these.

The waist level external chrome strips can all be removed/secured without reference to the inside of the car except the little short piece on the B-post which has a stud on it and is secured by a nut done up from the inside of the B-post.This means the lower B-post trim cannot be put back on until this chrome trim has been secured. Many people don't bother with the nut and use a bit of glue !

You are correct about wood trim being secured via the door seal channels. As I recall, this is all of the cantrail trim plus the screen pillar wood. The B-post upper trim wood is secured by spring clips.

The door rubbers were fitted at the factory with the doors off . It is extremely difficult to fit them correctly with the doors on the car. The original seals used a standard cross section for the straight "runs" and were moulded at the corners and where the channel had a complex section. In the 80s I was able to get originals, but these have long gone, so you have to rely on after-market. Which is the best source I don't know.

 

I don't know but I would consider the furflex used in the Series 3 XJ-6 bodies from 1980 through 1987, were I ever to replace the furflex or "draught excluder" in my '65 S type.

The original furflex in the S type is nailed or "tacked" at the inside edges of the door openings.

The XJ furflex is simply tapped or pushed onto the lips of the door openings with a light wood or rubber mallet. A lot simpler and faster.

And let's face it, furflex is furflex is furflex. If you can get to a salvage yard and pull a section of XJ furflex to try in the S type you will see what I mean. If it works for you then you can order new furflex in any color from John Skinner:

http://www.john-skinner.co.uk/

 

I don't think you could use a knock on furflex as the door lips on the S-Type and MK2 have a small 90 degree return on them to help hold the rubber in place.

 

Treozen has just posted re fitting his headlining with the glass in plae, start there https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...pleted-165256/

The rubber seals discussion here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...ubbers-164960/

Good luck and post any updates

 

Thanks to all who have replied to my post, especially Fraser for being so quick!
Can anyone recommend a suitable adhesive for the rubber seals around the door apertures, and also for gluing down pieces of the headlining?
I'll attempt to put up some photos of the interior, and photos of any progress I make.
Thanks once again for your responces


Richard

 

I used a generic contact cement for my door seals. Other adhesives stick a lot better, but the advantage is you can remove the seals, using care without destroying them, . I found fitting the seals a real learning experience, and I'm still not 100% satisfied with mine. For the record, I fitted Barratt's product.

 

PS I should have mentioned the seals need to be cleaned with a suitable solvent (e.g. acetone) before applying the adhesive.

 

Wurth makes a very good contact cement /rubber adhesive. Comes in a small tin with a brush suitable for applying to seals.
I also use 3M Super trim adhesive. I haven't' found anything other than the "Super" that actually stays glued.
Stoddards Porsche sells cans of carpet adhesive that works very well too.

 

You definitely can't due to the door seal channels being where you'd normally have the lip of the door aperture. That's why there is a tacking strip there, to tack-on the Furflex. Around the cantrail, the Furflex securing flap is tacked over the headlining which is also tacked to the same strip.

At least that is what I remember from my Mark 2 rebuild of the 80s. I did the full re-trim inside myself. I still have the staple gun !!

 

I would like to know where to get tacking strip. I haven't had any luck searching the web.

 

Hi Guys,

After a bit of E-Bay research, I've ordered some 10mm Copper tacks, for fixing the Furplex.
Trimfix Adhesive for the odd bits of head lining, and some Metal/Rubber adhesive from E-Teck.
I'm going to be busy when that lot arrives!
Meanwhile I'll have a wrestle with the bright work around the Front & Rear screens.

Thanks to everyone for the various replies to date.

Richard Hinds

 

Richard
You will need a tool for the screen chrome, it looks a bit like the eye end of a needle, it slides in the groove and opens up the rubber as you go.
TOOL12 - Mini heavy duty windscreen fillet tool

You may struggle with copper tacks, they are quite soft, and the tack strip is pretty hard so the tacks may bend ! I could be wrong, so good luck.

 

If the copper tacks are an issue I just used the 10mm one from this e-bay supplier BLUE IMPROVED CUT TACKS UPHOLSTERY & CARPET 10mm 13mm 15mm 20mm 25mm CHOOSE QTY | eBay

One tip is to make sure that the head of the tack will be covered by the wood trim, I held a piece up as I went along to check as the first couple I did would have been seen.

 

Hi guys,

A couple of good tips there. TilleyJon, (a) isn't it great that some car Clubs have organised specialist tools for their particular cars! Ken Jenkins sells a few Jaguar tools-perhaps I should drop him a line about a windscreen rubber tool! (b) I once made something similar, using a wooden handle from an old file. I shaped a piece of thick wire so it would fit the particular windscreen rubber, and then using much thinner wire, I bound my shaped piece to the wooden handle.
Homersimpson: That's a good tip to check the nail heads will be covered-something I wouldn't have thought of until after the event!

Regards, Richard

 

The windscreen tool is quite common, that was just one I clicked on first, plenty of them on ebay, they don't have to be Jag specific. The blue tacks Homer showed will def work if the copper ones do cause a problem.

Let us know re copper tacks, they won't corrode with any moisture, so if they work well would be a good choice.

 

Although it's called 'tacking strip', most Jaguar car trim from the 60s-on was fixed to it with staples using a staple gun, this was a lot quicker and safer. Safer because to work very fast the trim guys held the staples in their mouths. A quick kiss of the hammer head and another staple was ready for hammering on. Need I say that they were on piece-work wages. The tacking strip itself was secured into its channel with screw-nails. I found this out as I had to remove the strip from a scrapper as my body shell had none. It had never been made into a car and there weren't even the holes made by the screw-nails. I fixed it into my car with countersunk screws, but I had plenty of time, of course. All the production line guys at Jaguar were on piece work.

 

Hi Folks,


The re-fitting out of my S-type is progressing, but slowly! I could use some advice concerning the following:


I've reached the stage of replacing the "door glass outer waist seals", and find I've purchased the older style which is "fabric" as opposed to the later style being all rubber. New rubber seals would cost about £50 all in: has anyone any experience of one sort versus the other?


I'm struggling to figure out how long the new seal should be, as looking at the old ones, there has to be an allowance for the "non draught vents".
The manual makes reference to a "dumdum" type seal to go under the N.D.V.s-I understand Dumdum is no longer available. What do people use in it's place?


I'm having to use special pop rivits (instead of the original clips) for attaching the chrome beading strips on the doors, but I'm concerned rain water will leak in via the unused "slots" left in the doors-what have you guys used?


I'll appreciate any thoughts


Regards, Richard

 

I've fitted both types of door seal, with the fabric type you have an seperate chrome strip that runs along the top of the door whereas this is built into the rubber type.

For the record the B/C pillar chrome cover (between the doors) is also slightly different as the fabric strips with the seperate chrome strip have a short piece the same profil fixed onto the B/C post and therefore the base of the chrome cover doesn't have the small return.

Hope this makes sense.

I'm just fitting the door frames to my car and I have used some windscreen sealant, it doesn't fully set so remains flexible and should form a nice watertight seal.

With the chrome trim clips, I wouldn't be overly concerned as the fabric strips you are fitting won't keep the water out of the door so good internal protection of the door (waxoil or similar) and clear drain holes are key.

On a lot of old cars the doors arn't actually intended to be water tight, this is one of the reasons that all the inner door holes are sealed to prevent any finding its way into the car.

 

Hi Homer,
Thank you for your common sense approach-it's put my mind to rest.
My car originally had the rubber strips, although these are now torn and cracked with age. However, they appear to be "removeable" from the chrome beading, (I can slide them in and out) and SNG appear to sell them as a separate item. I've tried fitting the fabric items I was provided with, but they won't adopt anything like the correct profile, so I'll be firing off an order for the rubber type.
Incidentally, if you removed your doors, did you also remove the small pressing pop-riveted to the "B" pillar? I didn't, and struggled to fit new rubber door seals. So far I've only done the Off-side (I have a narrowish work area, and can only do one side at a time), and so may adopt a different approach for the Near-side.