MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Rear LH Brake Caliper C22724

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Old Apr 17, 2022 | 04:12 AM
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Default Rear LH Brake Caliper C22724

I'm just putting my rear brakes back together as part of the rear suspension rebuild. Unfortunately I've just spotted that the rear LH caliper/carrier part number C22724 and pictured below has a crack in it. Don't know how I haven't noticed it till now as I have spent the last few weeks disassembling, cleaning, sandblasting, cleaning, painting etc etc the caliper and only noticed when I was putting in the new pistons...

Anyway, I need a replacement and wondered if anybody here could help. Ebay has a couple of possibilities, but one is complete junk and could be cracked as well & needs relining and the other is being sold as a fully refurbed pair. As I have already spent quite a bit of the green stuff on replacement pistons, seals etc for mine what I'm after is a crusty but not too far gone example that I can rejuvenate.



 
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Old Apr 23, 2022 | 08:32 PM
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So chatting to my local Jag specialist and he suggested switching to xj6 rear calipers. An easy swap with a small bit of modification to the calipers to make them fit. You can get new xj6 calipers pretty cheaply, he said he had recently completed this swap for a customer with an S Type. As I have already spent on new pistons etc I said I would see if I could find a good used caliper. Then I thought.. what about the ones he had taken off his customers S Type when he fitted the xj6 calipers. Bingo I have my replacement rear LH caliper.
 

Last edited by paddyx350; Apr 23, 2022 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2025 | 11:56 PM
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I am a tinkerer by nature. I love projects ... that said, get the original mounting brackets for the carbon ceramic calipers. I bet they mount up to your xkr spindle/knuckle. Next, find out the diameter of rotors used for said carbon ceramic calipers. Check the brake hydraulic hose fittings on the new calipers. Dont make any assumptions they are interchangeable, they most likely are NOT. Lastly, check the clearance on your wheels, bigger calipers come with their own unique obstacles. Good luck
 
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by badicedog
I am a tinkerer by nature. I love projects ... that said, get the original mounting brackets for the carbon ceramic calipers. I bet they mount up to your xkr spindle/knuckle. Next, find out the diameter of rotors used for said carbon ceramic calipers. Check the brake hydraulic hose fittings on the new calipers. Dont make any assumptions they are interchangeable, they most likely are NOT. Lastly, check the clearance on your wheels, bigger calipers come with their own unique obstacles. Good luck
No disrespect but what are you talking about? Quite obviously you know nothing about an 1960s S Type rear brake set up which has inboard calipers so nowhere near the wheels and being a 1960s design was built before Carbon ceramic was even thought of for rotors. Now you might be mistaken that we are talking about a Modern S Type but the title of this page should give you a clue that we are not.
Thank you for your input though.
 

Last edited by Cass3958; Apr 6, 2025 at 04:08 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 06:08 AM
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Rob, I suspect it's not so much a fault of the poster as another case of a post ending in the wrong thread due to the peculiar way the site groups threads by subject. For example, trailing below is a thread on X-type brakes.

Returning to topic, a definite advantage of later type brakes is the reduced maintenance. Pads last longer and are often easier to change. And the problem of corrosion inside the slave cylinder is close to eliminated.
 

Last edited by Peter3442; Apr 6, 2025 at 06:10 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 01:43 PM
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I think what you're looking at is what I call a "casting step", what may look like a crack, isn't.
I'm assuming what you think is a crack is what I've pointed out with a red arrow ?

What are the chances of that crack lining up with the other casting step pointed out by the green arrow ?
They are both in line indicating that it just a part of the casting.


 
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 09:11 PM
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I believe Jeff is correct but to be sure I suggest the following
Anyone in the aviation engineering business is familiar with dye penetrant crack detection.
I would suggest that this calliper be taken to an aviation engineering place and subjected to this process.
Would be a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the calliper.
I would do it for a 6 pack of the amber fluid.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2025 | 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Mac
I believe Jeff is correct but to be sure I suggest the following
Anyone in the aviation engineering business is familiar with dye penetrant crack detection.
I would suggest that this calliper be taken to an aviation engineering place and subjected to this process.
Would be a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the calliper.
I would do it for a 6 pack of the amber fluid.
And if you don't want to take the caliper to Australia, most welding suppliers will sell you a three bottle kit for about the same price.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2025 | 08:26 AM
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Peter
You must be paying a hell of a price for beer in the UK.
Most OZ websites sell the 3-bottle dye crack detection kit for A$60 to A$80.
Beer slabs in OZ ie 24 bottles or 30 cans are around $A50.
So, a six pack is a notational A$ 12.50 or thereabouts. (cheaper in cans!)
Any way I hope Paddy's problem can be sorted out by we geriatric fonts of wisdom.
Cheers
 
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Old Apr 10, 2025 | 10:12 AM
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Bill,

Greene King gluten free IPA 8 x 500ml bottles £17 incl delivery

R-Tech crack cleaner, penetrant, and developer £17

There are cheaper alternatives for both. But I'm coeliac so have to stay gluten free and Greene King gf IPA is the real golden nectar. And as for the crack kit, I use R-Tech as they are a reliable supplier of quality goods. I bought my MIG welder from them and it's by far the best and easiest I've ever tried.
 

Last edited by Peter3442; Apr 10, 2025 at 11:26 AM.
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