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Interested in any experience people have had of replacing the existing dynamo with PS drive with a more modern high output alternative.
I've found two; The first by Powerlite with an output of 60 Amps https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electri...isted-steering
It depends on what electrical items you are going to run on the car and whether you require more power. I fitted the Accuspark Dynamator to my 3.4 S Type a couple of years ago. All the electrics are standard on the car. I have left the original radio in situ but because it is positive earth and the new system is negative earth I have just disconnected the power to it. Who needs a radio anyway. I have not had any problems with charging or running any of the cars systems such as fans, wipers and lights all at the same time on a dark wet night. Looks just like the original and powers the PAS pump. No brainer really for a cost effective alternator.
Just googled Lucas C42 generator output amps and got a figure of 27 Amps. So 25 Amps agrees with that.
The Accuspark quotes an output of 45 Amps so would provide a significant improvement on the original. And very well priced
I made my alternator with power steering. I started with one from a Vauxhaul Astra 1.7 diesel, it's internally regulated and has a vacuum pump on the back. I removed the vacuum pump, then made an adapter plate and machined a coupling that mated the splined shaft of the alternator with the slot of the PS pump. I needed to use the pulley from a Series 1 4.2 E Type to have the right belt profile and small diameter for an alternator
The PS pump is moved a bit further forward compared to the original, but it works fine. I removed the spring tensioner and used an adjustable link to make the alternator the tensioning member. SO far it works very well, and charges at idle even under high load.
The main reason for me to do this was I was converting to EFi and the dynamo didn't put out enough power, plus it was very "noisy" power.
The C42 has an output of 30 amps at 2200 RPM (standard generator)
The C48 has an output of 35 amps at 1650 RPM (uprated generator)
Per Jaguar Service Manual.
C42 Generator with RB340 Regulator.
It is that variable voltage and high cutting in speed that the generator has that makes the Alternator version better. The alternator gives voltage as soon as it starts to turn to even at tickover speeds of 500 to 600 rpm the alternator is producing power. Not sure about max output but I believe the alternator is a constant power right through the range of rpm.
It depends on what electrical items you are going to run on the car and whether you require more power. I fitted the Accuspark Dynamator to my 3.4 S Type a couple of years ago. All the electrics are standard on the car. I have left the original radio in situ but because it is positive earth and the new system is negative earth I have just disconnected the power to it. Who needs a radio anyway. I have not had any problems with charging or running any of the cars systems such as fans, wipers and lights all at the same time on a dark wet night. Looks just like the original and powers the PAS pump. No brainer really for a cost effective alternator.
Hey Cass,
You can always get your radio converted to - earth. I had mine done to accept an Ipod and bluetooth whilst still looking totally original!
Ray
Retro Air in Texas sells an Alternator Conversion for Jaguar saloons with a power steering adapter. Very expensive at around $600.00 US but claims 70 amps output.
It is that variable voltage and high cutting in speed that the generator has that makes the Alternator version better. The alternator gives voltage as soon as it starts to turn to even at tickover speeds of 500 to 600 rpm the alternator is producing power. Not sure about max output but I believe the alternator is a constant power right through the range of rpm.
Yes Rob. That is the main difference. An Alternator charges from idle. A Generator needs revs. A Generator with commutator generates DC. An Alternator produces AC which requires to be rectified to DC generally using a diode bridge.
I made my alternator with power steering. I started with one from a Vauxhaul Astra 1.7 diesel, it's internally regulated and has a vacuum pump on the back. I removed the vacuum pump, then made an adapter plate and machined a coupling that mated the splined shaft of the alternator with the slot of the PS pump. I needed to use the pulley from a Series 1 4.2 E Type to have the right belt profile and small diameter for an alternator
The PS pump is moved a bit further forward compared to the original, but it works fine. I removed the spring tensioner and used an adjustable link to make the alternator the tensioning member. SO far it works very well, and charges at idle even under high load. The main reason for me to do this was I was converting to EFi and the dynamo didn't put out enough power, plus it was very "noisy" power.
Jagboi64 How many amps is the Vauxhall alternator?
What was your cost to fabricate it? I find that most of the conversions are way overpriced for an alternator inside a generator case and too little amperage.
It's 90 amps. Cost was Alternator, and the metal, as I have a lathe and milling machine so I made it myself, plus the cost of a 4.2 E Type alternator pulley to keep the double groove belt. I bought the alternator off Ebay UK, I just did a search and this was the first one that came up: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323899258...Cclp%3A2334524
I can't remember which vendor I bought from, it wasn't this one, that was just for an example of the type of alternator. I know the listing says 70A, there was a test sheet in the box with my alt that showed 90A.
It took two tries, the first design I came up with didn't last too long, so I had to do a redesign.So far it's holding up well. But before, you ask, I'm not in the business of building conversions, as I have not put enough miles on it yet to be fully confident of the design. Feel free to "copy my homework" as it is though.
I have an electric fan, as well as EFI added to the car and the voltmeter stays charging at idle. I changed the dash amp meter to a voltemeter. Some photos of the adapter are here:
It's 90 amps. Cost was Alternator, and the metal, as I have a lathe and milling machine so I made it myself, plus the cost of a 4.2 E Type alternator pulley to keep the double groove belt. I bought the alternator off Ebay UK, I just did a search and this was the first one that came up. I can't remember which vendor I bought from, it wasn't this one, that was just for an example of the type of alternator. I know the listing says 70A, there was a test sheet in the box with my alt that showed 90A.
It took two tries, the first design I came up with didn't last too long, so I had to do a redesign.So far it's holding up well. But before, you ask, I'm not in the business of building conversions, as I have not put enough miles on it yet to be fully confident of the design. Feel free to "copy my homework" as it is though.
I have an electric fan, as well as EFI added to the car and the voltmeter stays charging at idle. I changed the dash amp meter to a voltemeter. Some photos of the adapter are here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/129643...57719133816569
Jagboi64, no I was not thinking of asking you to make one of those alternator kits for me, but if you insist, 70 or 90 amps is my number. I have a loud Jaguar stereo in my S type, as well as 200 watts`of motorcycle spot lights (where lame fog lights would be), that annoy the living dayights out of truckers and everybody else. But only when doing 80 mph. Have to turn them off when stopped at red lights otherwise the battery is discharged dead in less than 60 seconds. Not fair. And I don't care to duplicate the C42 "look" or if the pump is a bit forward. What I want is AMPS. Thanks.
The C42 ammeter is rated at 30 amps for full deflection. (small 30 printed under the centre marking). You fitted a voltmeter. Prior to that I think Canadian cars had C48's ~ 35amp.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 05-15-2021 at 02:21 PM.
Yes, the car was originally a C48. I removed the Ammeter and replaced it with a voltmeter. I joined the heavy wires together that went to the ammeter and put heat shrink tubing over the joint to protect it.I ran the wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid, where it connects to the battery.
I had no intentions of making this car 100% original, but I wanted it to at least be period correct until the bonnet is opened. I'd never change the engine, but I'm ok with changing the accessories.
Just for general info I have been in touch with Accuspark and they have no Dynamator units suitable for the S Type with the PS drive at the moment.
They are having problems with delivery and won't have any units in for 3-6 months. I presume this means they come on a slow boat from China.
They were very quick in responding to my query re delivery.
05-07-2021, 04:21 PM
Replacement options for Dynamo with PS drive
