after years of sitting in dry storage, we took it to the mechanic's garage this morning at 6:30 am to get the engine removed and checked for crankshaft and/or bearings.

I will be there on Tuesday helping with the engine removal and will take pictures showing the orientation of the engine mount brackets as requested by Cass and Glyn, before we get them rewelded if needed. I believe the engine has never been removed before but who knows..

 

Here's hoping that a new set of bearings and mild crank polish is all you need! I hope all goes well.

 

Make sure they clean out the Crankshaft oil galleries while it is removed from the engine & replace the bottom timing chain.

Good luck!

 

Thank you!

 

Thank you ! he will be removing the timing cover to inspect chains and related after sump is removed. Pressure wash the old grease, etc. Radiator is ready and polished.

he knows a machine shop nearby if the crankshaft needs cutting.

​​​​​​Bonnet is already off, I was surprised how light it is. Hardly any weight at all.

 

Jaguar crankshaft galleries get very clogged up with debris & the lower chain just makes common sense while you have access. You can always pull a new top chain without an engine strip down/tear down.

Remove sludge plugs & clean. This is quite a good crank. I've seen far worse clogging.

 

yes and the Damper / Balancer rubber doesn't look good either. if the crankshaft needs to come off, maybe the damper will need tlc as well.

 

You can get rebuilt ones but they are tough old things.

https://www.terrysjag.com/product/C15274R.html

 

Terry''s gets those from White Post Restorations in White Post, Virginia, who purchased The Damper Doctor a few years back.

White Post is known as a fabricator and restorer of impossible parts for antique cars like Duesenbergs and cars of the brass era.

 

There is one on Ebay at present for $30 but I'm sure it's worse than yours. I remember Damper Doctor. We used them for a friends car when I lived in Dallas.

 

8 hours of removing bolts and nuts and parts. I am worn out.

The engine is stuck at the rear mount. The pivot bolt does not go down enough to clear the firewall bracket. Or we are doing something wrong.

yes driveshaft is out.
yes manifolds are out
​​​​​yes generator is out,
yes carbs are out
yes yes yes to everything.
checked, double triple checked.

trying again tomorrow.

 

Is the tailshaft of the gearbox hitting the ground? Is the rev counter generator on the back of the cam hitting the firewall?

Can you raise the front of the engine further or drop the gearbox further? Increase the tilt?

 

1) no

2) yes

3) not easily with that center rear support in the way, it looks like the engine moved back towards the firewall. plenty space at the front of engine to raise it

We left it where it is, starting back tomorrow. Everything in the photo that should not be there has been removed.

 

Jack up the engine again. Remove the rev counter generator. Use an engine crane to lift the front of the engine/drop rear and you can remove the cross bolt that holds the rear stabiliser to the engine/bellhousing & drop it out of the firewall bracket from beneath.

I only fitted the rear stabiliser once the engine & transmission was in the car but still loose.

 

Cross bolt for rear stabiliser mounts here. Sorry not clear. Blown up tiny piece of a much larger pic.

 

With head brackets no lifting plate required. Your car looks pre lifting brackets so you are going to need the lifting plate that attaches to the head studs..

 

Belt around head brackets if fitted.

 

Engine lifting plate.






Rear Engine Stabiliser






Front engine stabilisers ~ if fitted like mine







Engine lifting brackets, (Longer studs required)

 

I have the head brackets which I attached to a chain but I also had an adjusting bar on my engine hoist which allowed me to adjust the angle of the engine without having to pull the heavy engine hoist around. It allows you to have the engine and gearbox almost vertical as it goes in and then allows you to level it out as you lower the gearbox into the tunnel. I also had the front of my car on axle stands to lift it up which allowed more room for the gearbox tail to go under the car. Careful not to jack the front of the car up to far or the engine hoist will not be able to lift the engine and gearbox up over the front grill. What you can do is once the engine is lifted you can lower the car off the axle stands and it gives you more room to get the engine out. Taking the front wheels off also lets you drop the front of the car even lower if required.
I don't have any photos of the engine in the vertical position as I was too busy holding it off the paintwork to worry about a photo.

 

That adjusting bar is such a good idea! Although I must say sliding the belt through the brackets worked fine. I too have no heavily tilted pics as I was acting as ballast on the engine crane so no damage was done & had a helper under the car & my restorer operating the crane.

During refitting it is so easy to bang the firewall with the tail shaft. I had my car on axle stands but found no need to change them.