Hello again,
Just about at the end of the resto on the 3.8 Mk2 after waiting for the fuel pump kit as Burlen kept sending the wrong parts but done now! Tried to start her up for the 1st time but the starter seemed extremely lazy, It is the second one I've tried as the 1st was even worse! I thought I would bite the bullet and I have ordered a "Powerlight Unit" has anyone else got one of these?
Ray

 

Yes I fitted a Powerlight unit to my 1968 S Type a couple of years ago. Compared to the old unit it is day and night. It spins the engine over really quickly and I have had no problems with starting since. I had rebuilt my old unit at my local shop but it only improved the performance slightly, nothing like the Powerlight. Highly recommended and although it is a modern, smaller, lighter unit it cannot be seen below the carbs so does not ruin the old aesthetics of the engine bay. Easier to install as it is smaller and lighter the only thing which we have been discussing recently on the S Type Jaguar forum is that the welded bolt retaining ring for fixing it to the car does not fit and I had to use nuts and bolts which then became a pain to do up because of its location. You will require some long extension socket bars to go from the front of the car by the distributor to go under the carbs to get to the bolt heads whilst with long arms holding a spanner on the nut on the far side. Could even have to use the Jaguar tool "Wife" as I did to secure one end.

 

Cheers Cass,
That's good news I've managed to remove the original in the meantime by removing the battery and tray,one of the heater hoses, and unclipping the throttle linkage and dropping it down through the bottom. It just goes through, at one time I thought I would need to take take carbs off, glad I didn't as they are like everything on these cars the nuts are a bugger to get to!
I will let you know how I get on fitting the Powerlight but it cant be any worse!!
Ray

 

There is lots of debate over how the starter comes out. The blue book says it comes out the top having been fed along under the carbs but this entails removing the top water hose from the radiator, throttle springs and dizzy cap or dizzy complete. I found it easier out of the bottom although it is tight by removing the oil filter canister and the oil pressure sensor. The dam thing is very heavy though so you have to be careful lying under the car trying to maneuver it through the gap between sump and chassis leg because if you drop it your head will stop it from hitting the floor.. The new Powerlight is a breeze to fit as it is lighter and smaller.

 

I think my route was easier, Didn't need to remove oil filter!

 

The old starter motor seems to be quite tough. I drove my car from Oulton Park to Chester, about 25 km, without clutch hydraulics. A bit of throttle and the starter motor set the car off and started the engine without problem or protest several times over the journey. The low first gear of the old Moss box might have helped.

 

Starter arrived and fitted (turns over a lot quicker!) but hasn't burst into life yet, I will get more time tomorrow to find out why I made a tubular bracket which didn't work so I managed to modify the existing horseshoe which made fitting easy

 

Nice modification on the original theme.
I was surprised how quickly the engine turned over with the new starter compared with the old. 100% better with the modern starter motor fitted.

 

The S type with a DG250 must be the only automatic transmission car that can be started by pushing it if the starter or battery fails?

it's in the Factory Service/Shop Manual. Push it to gain enough momentum and then shift it to DRIVE with ignition switch ON.

I've never done it but it is written. Amazing.

otherwise my Lucas`starter is very slow too. I am ordering a High Torque starter from British Starters in New Jersey. They claim they invented them. And it lets you keep the Remote Solenoid function with just a bypass wire.

 

You could tow any old Automatic which would kick in at around 30mph!, The Starter I bought is brilliant and it also has the option to retain the original solenoid I bought it direct from Powerlight

 

Jose why do you need a bypass wire to retain the solenoid. The power to drive the old starter is the same for the new starter. There is a wire that goes from the battery to the solenoid under the bonnet an then a second wire that goes direct to the starter. If you did not have the solenoid you would have to rewire the whole ignition system from the key via the button to the stater. I think your company who claim to have invented the high power starter is a bit like Al Gore inventing the internet.

 

Correct. What matters if you are not towing to start is dependent on the transmission oil pump set up. With some units you could tow them for a limited distance without disconnecting the propshaft or you would bugger up the transmission due to lack of fluid/oil circulation.

 

That's Right, On the other hand I Had a Mk 2 Cortina Auto which wouldn't change gear properly until it had a flat battery We tow started it and after that the gearbox was perfect!

 

That's a weird one unless it dislodged some clutch wear debris somewhere in the system.