FYI,
According to Nigel Thorley, chassis P181374BW is a 3.4 Mk2. (produced from 10/59 til 09/67 starting with chassis number 175001, left hand drive). What I think may happen is the difference between European and US ways to register cars. I had a 1964 Alfa Romeo that was sold in 1965 and therefore was registered as a 1965, but there is no such thing as a 1965 Giulia Spider Veloce. I believe that dealers sold the cars they had in stock regardless of the model year and that, because the 340 had been announced as a new model in September 67, a dealer could easily stick a 340 on the trunk lid to sell it as a "brand new, factory fresh latest version" car and not one that had been for months on the lot. You would not want to buy last year's car at today's price, especially a Jaguar, would you?
Anyone with a better story? :-)
JP

 

But did the dealer change out the leather for Ambla, and there are no picnic tables in the back, although as a MK 2 for export I suppose they could have been omitted due to American safety regulations back then.
It sure looks like Ambla in the photo and given the hot climate it was in for most of it's life, there would be some fading at least, but it looks bran new.
Only the Ambla stands up to hot climates with out any care.
My car was left out side for at least one season, the veneer was peeling, but the vinyl still looks great.

 

Gentlemen in the US the model was changed in name only to 340. Read "Jaguar in America" by Dugdale as he covers it completely. The US 340s carried a MK2 vin sequence and when the ROW 340 was introduced for 68 of course it was not imported to the Us due to compliance issues. It does create confusion but the US 340 is as pictured before. Some had optional equipment but that was order by order. This is a US 340.

 

Note that for the Mk2 (according to Nigel Thorley), in September 1966, Ambla became standard and leather an option, picnic tables were deleted, headlining and sun visors as in S-Type, foglamps deleted, etc.. So the standard Mk2 equipment was already similar to the 340.
JP

 

Interesting story about 340 and Mk2 9see link). It appears that your car is a very rare one.. Only 719 Mk2 rebadged as 340 :-)
JP
The Mk2/340 Project - a footnote in Jaguar history

 

My vin number is P181395 and first registered in 1968, just before this one in the link (P181396), same colour too, inside and out.

http://www.oldirish.com/cars/mk2/jim.jpg

 

Gents the article is great but there is one point that is in error. The cars were not re-badged they were badged as 340s at the factory. While it is true that the 340 and Mk2 script are interchangable MK2 cars carried a MK2 badge and a displacement badge below. An examination of a 340 will not reveal any closed holes in the boot lid and if the cars had been re-badged there would be two holes where the displacement badge "was". The cars were badged for the US market and as I suggested prior the work "Jaguar in America" by Dugdale reveals all. He was only the marketing manager for Jaguar US during the time. Jaguar had gone to a number system for their sedans--420G ,420, and 340. Only the E -Type was considered sacred!

 

Very Interesting! Thanks all

 

George,
Thank you so much. I think that, for the first time in this forum we have now a clear understanding of the "340 with big bumpers" mystery :-)
Thanks again.
JP

 

Very interesting stuff, so Nigel Thornley's chassis numbers re LHD MK2 and 340 did not apply to the US ?

Is that info incorrect, or did those chassis numbers only get exported elsewhere.

It will be interesting to see what the Heritage Cert shows.

Do you have an ISBN number for the book re US in America ?

Jon

 

Heritage Certificate just ordered, I will post once I receive!


Thanks again all!

 

Any other places to rent a hub puller other than JCNA? Looking to rent one for steel wheels. I will be joining JCNA, however looking for a quicker resource. Thanks!

 

You will probably be fine with a standard puller like this OEM Tools 27037 Front Wheel Drive Wheel Bearing / Hub Puller | eBay its the wire wheel splined hubs that cause the problems as you cant fit these.

You can also get hydraulic versions which have much more force, but apply some pressure and a knock with a copper mallet should do the trick.

I got my splined hubs off with a 3 legged puller on the disc, it was fine and worked a treat, but I wasn't worried if I had broken the disc as I will be replacing them anyway.

Are you replacing the discs or need to do the bearings ?

 

I am just replacing the discs, I have tried a three jaw, with a bit of heat (not crazy amount) it seems to be on there good, I suspect based on the mileage it has not ever been off.

 

Heat does nothing, I used an acetylene torch and it wouldn't move. Heat is good for breaking rusty parts, but not this.

I used this puller from OTC and modified the end so it would perfectly fit on the output shaft with out damaging it. (this one has an adapter plate so it fits perfectly on the 5 bolt pattern)
I tightened the puller up as much as I could and then wacked the end with a big sledge hammer.
Then tightened some more _ kept this up and it gave.
You have to whack the puller while under tension _ that's the trick, other wise it will never come lose.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...j6qjnSGZ7Gw6qQ

Note, if the link doesn't work, then copy/paste what's below in the address bar.

OTC 6574 Universal Heavy Duty Hub Puller

EDIT:
Here is a thread I started with photos of the modified end so the axle wouldn't get damaged.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...14/#post797823

 

Thanks Jeff,


I will track one of those down and give it a try. I did whack the three jaw puller, three pound mason hammer, many times. I do not think I was getting enough tension. Thanks for the pics on modifying the end.

 

The shaft on the OTC puller is one inch and the threads on it a finer then what's on the Churchill too, so you can apply allot pressure.
I used a big 3 foot 1/2 inch extension and wedged it in between the puller and the floor to keep the whole thing from turning.
How big was the shaft on the 3 jaw puller ?

 

Jeff you are correct that the JCNA tool loan is a bit costly for our Canadian members. we have enough tools that we have sought a member in Canada to administer a set but no takers. As to the J1 or JD1 you are a bit off--sorry. The J1 for solid wheels has a one inch shaft with 14 PTI. It also has in its housing a secure socket to introduce a bar (included with the tool) to prevent spin. The biggest advantage to the J1 and the J7 (for spline hubs) is a ball bearing that is locked into the business end of the tool. This allows free turn and much more force than fighting a flat end. It also prevents damage to the axle shaft end. The tool you have I am sure did the job but the proper tool just does it easier and better. There is no adapter plate so it is a direct bolt on with all 5 studs (very even pull). Glad you were successful and just wanted to address a bit of mis information.

 

We've had this discussion before.
The OTC tool has 16 TPI.
While I'm sure that the Churchill tool may be suited for the job better then the OTC tool, due to its weight, and impracticality of shipping to Canada due to the terrible dollar exchange, I found the other tool works quite well.
If gijsen wants to borrow the Churchill tool, he has that option, plus he is in the US, but it's up to him.

 

On the JCNA site you have stated that this tool is 12TPI, so i'm not sure Jeff is incorrect, although the loan scheme is great, the cost is too high for many, and lots of people prefer to have their own tools for future maintenance, Jeff's solution is a very good one, and in fact you can buy extra legs for the puller he has used to give more even pull if anyone felt that was required. The adaptor is a perfect solution to avoid axle damage, there maybe other solutions also. I would disagree with the force point, the ball applies a point load, and would reduce friction when turning the threaded shaft but would not apply more load.

Here is another type of puller, 20Ton force and should also bolt directly to all 5 studs, and I am pretty sure this has a ball end built in, I have one of these in the workshop buried somewhere, I will try and find it a confirm this, I think the end doesn't actually turn with the main thread, so there is no friction at all.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/12171...2646143&crdt=0