Hello all

Reading your posts with interest. I am doing similar mods to my mk2.

I have used the POR 15 with some success. This is a picture of my boot lid painted with por 15 with a 4" brush. This is with no high build primer or any other filler.

I have thought about painting the car as I have done the rust repairs myself.
I have looked at enrolling at tech college and learning how do it but nothing replaces experience. Then I looked at vinyl wrapping. This may be a good option as costs about a grand for materials , lasts up to 4 years (probably longer) , can easily be taken off and replaced. I have no experience with this but (check out you tube) there are many cars that have been done.
Could be a viable option especially when my car is completely stripped all ready.

Glenn

 

Interesting _ it was pretty painful watching these guys for the first time, but at least they finally got it.

 

Great job, just make sure not to get any of the POR15 on your skin as it will NOT come out with gasoline, paint thinner, etc. you will have to wait three months for your skin to peel.


I am not a big fan of wraps for main paint. I like it for highlights like logos, etc. I know it is expensive to paint a car but I think it is worth it. You could go with the clear wraps after you paint in the front to avoid rock chips.

 

We pushed the tub out into the sun to look for flaws in the bodywork. One final blocking and it's ready for the painter. I picked up the panels and am very please with the results. They'll remain in the basement in an unused room out of harms way until the end of the project. If you've got the time I've learned body work isn't difficult - just very time consuming if you don't know what you're doing. Another week or two at the painter's and we'll start the assembly. I'm relieved to have this part of the project behind me - hopefully it's downhill from here. Yeah, I'm sure...

If anyone knows where to get that adhesive-backed vinyl wrap that new cars are covered with for transport let me know - I'd like to cover the paint and hopefully avoid some of the inevitable scratches during assembly. Thanks.

 

that looks very nice,
doug,can you post some close up pics of your front door frames pls,
where the wing mirror fits and how the glass fits in that front channel now you have
moved the upright ,
thanks,
Dave.

 

Those louvers are truly "bad @$$"! Great work!

 

We picked the tub up from paint and I'm really pleased with the outcome. The painter's work was first rate - the do-it-yourselfer's work wasn't bad for a first timer. The roof is dead straight despite cutting that big hole in it, and I really like the look of the shaved gutters - the chrome window frames should set these lines off really nicely, and hopefully we'll have less wind noise at the A pillars. I see a little distortion around the louvers where the panels were welded in - hopefully the painter can shoot a few coats of clear and reblock the fender sides to get them straight. We'll do this when the finished car goes back for the inevitable paint repairs and buff out. The painter advised against applying any protective film during reassembly since even after baking, solvent continues to flash off for months and trapping this can damage the paint.

Primaz, the paint supplier told me not to use Por 15 since this is a bare metal treatment. Since I already applied epoxy primer to the tube bottom the recommendation was to shoot a single stage urethane paint and top this with a 2-part urethane truck bed liner. I had planned to apply undercoat to cut down on road noise so I'll give this a try. The thought of mounting the finished tub on the rotisserie doesn't thrill me. No idea why I didn't think to finish the bottom before sending the thing off to paint. Live and learn...

Dave, I forgot to shoot pics of the front window frames - will do so for next post. In the meantime I hope you enjoy these - making progress!

 

Actually they are incorrect about it being a bare metal paint. POR-15 undercoating goes after the car is at bare metal and after the POR-15 nickel oxide metal prep paint coating is applied, then the POR-15 is applied. It is up to you but a nice thing with the POR-15 is it can be applied without fancy paint guns, etc. and being right on the Pacific Ocean I can attest that it works. To me painting it twice is a just as much work if not more as that needs to be via a shop. If you go their route you might consider the Rhino liner.

 

Looks absolutely beautiful, Doug. Lines are really clean without the drip rails.
Lin

 

Doug,
One very fine job!

 

This is the best mark 2 build I have seen yet


Am currently looking for a modern v8 jag engine for my car

I have done a lot so far just need an engine

• upgraded brakes to vented Volvo 4 pots
• hydraulic adjustable suspension
• wider rear quarter panels
• 10" front and 12" wide rear 17" wheels
• removed the rear bumper and bodytrim

I don't have many photos yet as I have only had it out once for my wedding last week

 

^ You need to start a new thread detailing your car ^


I'd be quite interested to know more about it

 

Always interested in seeing more modified MK 2's.

Good to see that the Bride has her priorities right in presenting the car before herself!

Car looks a little low at the front. Is it practical to run it like that?

 

He is running air bags so he can slam the car down when parked, etc. and raise it for normal driving.


But yes as Stony said you NEED to create your own posting as this thread is for Dave's great XJR which is one heck of a custom Jag and it not right to merge your car and have any discussions on it under this thread. I would be interested in details of suspension mods but please do not reply to this as discussions on your car need to be in a separate thread to respect others topics...


Doug, when are you going to post more pics? Your car is getting close to completion and I am eager to see more pics of this cool Jag!

 

Not much progress to report explains the lack of pics. We did get the bottom seam sealed and shot with a single stage urethane, along with all the suspension bits. Also shot the bottom and wheel wells with a 2 part urethane bedliner for trucks. I've used traditional undercoats in the past which simply turned to mush the minute oil or grease touched it, so hopefully this stuff will stand up better - it certainly sets up rock hard.

I'm in the middle of fabricating and mounting brake and fuel lines - wanted to do this while the beast is still on the rotisserie. All tubing and fittings are metric and the unions are bubble/DIN type so it took some research and time to source everything - hopefully we'll be on jack stands after this weekend and can start the engine and suspension install. I've purchased urethane bushings for the front and am debating whether to replace all the rear bushings - I think there are about a dozen altogether. They look new but the donor XJR was a 2001 so the rubber is 14 years old - probably doesn't make sense to scrimp at this point.

That white Mark 2 is sweet - who says a white car can't look bad ***. I don't get the slammed thing and the black chrome isn't my taste, but these projects are all about doing what you like and making it one-of-a-kind. Till next time.

 

Doug,
Looks great.
Trying to plan ahead on mine. Thinking of an acid etching primer first, then a product called Chassis Saver. All over kill, and the paint shop says not to or not necessary - as in do the Chassis Saver on bare. Two part bed line you used maybe what I want to try. What brand did you use?
Thanks,
Clyde

 

Clyde, I stripped my car to bare metal, then applied POR-15 nickel oxide metal prep coating and then the POR-15 chassis paint. I have doe the same for my Z cars and I just a few blocks from the Pacific Ocean and in my opinion this is the best undercoating.

 

Clyde, the undercoat I used was a SEM product - Rock It Liner. I suspect all the urethane products are similar - Primaz mentioned Rhino Liner.

I need to purchase insulation material soon - Dynamat, Second Skin, Lizard Skin, Hushmat - too many types all claiming to be the best. Any knowledge would be appreciated. I'm thinking sound deadening for the interior and heat insulation for the firewall.

 

So many options for choices, but usually both a heavy product like dynamat, fatmat etc to dampen vibrations is the way to go, and if they have a foil top, they also help with heat, but on top of that you want to run an insulation as well, these are a light product but a bit thicker, basically carpet underlay.


You can spend heaps on car specific products or go to the house section in a hardware dept and buy very similar products in bulk, roofing insulation is a great start.

 

Doug,


I used Dynamat and my upholstery shop added base insulation under the new carpet. I am no expert on other brands but one recommendation is that for the firewall and the trans tunnel you might want to add two layers and really make sure there are zero gaps. The reason is that to me I still feel like some heat gets in.