You need a GoPro Motorsports Hero.

http://gopro.com/cameras/hd-motorsports-hero-camera/

 

Hi General and thanks for the tip.
Please excuse me for a moment while I chuckle at the very thought of me paying 299 for a playtime camera.
What I need is a flat lolly stick that I can fasten to my Fuji which then gets stuck into my hat-band facing forwards. I then need to stick a large lump of plastic to the shutter release so that it is easy to find using a groping finger.
Total cost .... 20p at most, lol

 

20p beats $299 any day.

Those cameras are too expensive, but they're really great. I've seen my friend's surfing videos, and they're really cool.

 

I have a Canon 550D or T2i depending on where you are. Regular Canon 18-55 and 55-250mm lenses. Canon camera bag. In all honesty, i would like perhaps a wide angle lens, a longer range lens, a fisheye and some filters. This is all the camera i'll ever need =]

 

MEEEE TOOO but the lens are addiction, at first the 18-105 my d7000 came with was enough, then i added and now....its getting out of hand.

 

Thermo, its quite easy to shoot fireworks actually, you can fiddle with the iso, but for me i prefer quality and keep it to its lowest setting usually 100. Now thee are a few diffeerent ways to shoot fire work, one is to allowthe shutter to be slower so it can capture the tail and dazzle of the fire work and the others follow a similar route. IN my opnion unless your steady as a rock, its going to be difficult to do with out setting the camera on a static object.

 

Disco, I am doing some more playing. I am doing trial runs doing pics of the moon and stars. But, the next time I do fireworks, I am going to use ISO 100 on a tripod and see how things come out that way. The last time I did it, I don't recall the ISO I used , but I seem to think it was fairly high. that resulted in the fireworks coming out almost all white.

I am not too worried about steady. Between a tripod and a remote shutter, I have that under control.

I am also getting a better feel for how the camera will respond by doing night shots up in DC. I took some during the Christmas time frame. They came out pretty good. Granted, those were free hand and you can see in some of the pics how they are not quite as clear as they could be. Here are two examples. If you want/need to see bigger versions of them, let me know. I will send you the originals.

 

The majority of my work has been done on a Kodak C743, and I have gotten amazing results for the $50 or so I spent on it. The thing's been an absolute charm. However, recently, I unearthed my father's (Or one of his) Polaroid SX-70 Land Cameras and have fallen madly in love with the thing in spite of all it's fussing and hissy fits. When it works, I manage some beautiful shots and there's always a greater sense of significance in it being analog. Real film, even if polaroid.


Dream gear, though.....

A digital and analog Leica, a new Polaroid SX-70 (Second model in brown), and that ought to do it.

 

This is a photo I took several years ago with my Nikon D

 

Incredibly nice! What lens?

My current setup is a Canon EOS 7D (with grip) + Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 with the stabilizer. I also have a Samyang 85mm f/1.4 and some nice Manfrotto tripod. I often use a CP filter, but what I truly lack now is a stronger ND filter. Earlier I had a 62mm ND400, but it wouldn't fit the new lens anyway. I just have an ND8 now and it's far from being enough.

For instance, I wished to capture the mist created from heavy rain during a long exposure, but it wasn't possible with just an ND8. I could barely go over 5 seconds with lowest possible ISO and highest f. Meh.

 

Cannon 5d MKlll
Cannon 16-35 F2.8 L
Cannon 24-70 F2.8 L
Cannon 70-200 F2.8 L IS USM
Cannon Speedlight 600EX-RT X2

 

Canon 5Dmk2, 14LII, 35L, 85LII, 100L, 24-105L, 70-300L

Here's one of the perigee "Super Moon" using my 70-300:

 

Hehe, here's mine from years ago, with tripod, EOS 20D and a bog-standard non-USM 75-300mm:


After that, I've tried to achieve similar results with an EOS 7D, the same lens, 2x Kenko teleconverter, remote shutter release & a superior tripod. So far, I've never gotten anywhere near the original...

 

I paint pictures and want to make them into posters. To digitize them I was using a cheap $75 Fuji camera from Walmart but at 14MP when I made 24x36 posters they were an abysmally low dpi, I forget but something like 128dpi and the posters looked terrible.

In town a place wanted $175 a pop to scan my paintings on a fancy-pants scanner, so I got a 1940's Graflex Speed Graphic and the learning curve was about a month since I know zip about photography. I shoot transparencies and it's 4"x5" format. That's 20 square inches of negative - ya baby!

The camera is actually ultra easy. The film holders present the most fun. I've made two test runs of a painting to get the settings tweaked. So far I love the transparencies but the scans into my computer using an Epson 4870 are not useable because the color is ugly. They yield sufficient dpi though: scanning at about the 6th from the best resolution they are 320MP (yes, 320 megapxels) and use about 850MB which gives me 500+dpi on a 24" x 36" poster. I ended up needing a lot more MP than I thought at first!

I also like that the camera adds an analog mush to the painting akin to recording audio to tape. The lens is out of focus on the edges and I like that a bit.

I've attached a pic of the camera (taken with Fuji $75 camera) in a contraption I made that mounts in a Black & Decker Workmate. It holds the camera steady because after you focus you need to slide in a film holder and while you shoot you're doing it blind. Since the film holders slide in with some force it would be extremely easy to jar the whole thing. I'm using Fuji Velvia ASA 50 film and the colors are unbelievable. Unbelievable also is that a 1940's wooden camera covered in leather with a leather bellows and a 1940's Weston light meter all worked perfectly from the first shot in the hands of a total novice.

The camera was about $235 and each 4x5 slide costs about $10 after all is said and done. I buy the film in Manhattan, shoot the pics in Hawaii and then send it to Rochester N.Y. for developing. (shakes head)

Check out the cameras here: The Aero Ektar Project - Workout Those guys are using WWll 7" airplane photography lenses on their Speed Graphics. Nice!

 

I'm just an amateur, but I've been amassing gear for a while now. I've got a Canon EOS 1d MkIII and 5d (classic), and (I think) 14 lenses. Primes from 15mm Fish to 400mm, zooms from 16mm to 400mm.

Dream gear is to replace the 5d with a 1Dx, and the 400 F/2.8. But then since I've been getting more and more into astrophotography, maybe the 600 F/5.6.

My next photography purchase though is likely to be a Retina Macbook and a 27" Thunderbolt display.

 

Canon 7D
Canon Battery Grip BG-E7
Canon Zoom Lens EF 24-70mm 1:28 L USM (Walk about lens)
Canon Zoom Lens EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L
Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 10-22mm :3.5-4.5 USM ( Interiors )
Sigma 70mm 1:2.8 DGMacro
Canon Speedlite 580EX11
Marumi Macro Ring Flash
Manfrotto Mono Pod
Manfrotto Tripod with 804RC2 Head unit
Tamrac Evolution 9 Backpack

I enjoy all aspects of photography my profession of architecture has enabled me to get to many places for building pictures. I also like fashion but very difficult to arrange unless you have good contacts, Car and aircraft shows. I suppose you could say Jack of all trades master of none, just enjoy the hobby and do not do enough.

 

ok, since i need to count postings I can join this...
Nikon d700
Nikon 14mm f2.8, 24-70mm f2.8, 70-200mm f2.8, 105 Macro f2.8
4x SB900

 

After decades of using Canon 35mm SLRs I recently bought a Nikon D3100 DSLR. It is absolutely amazing. It almost looks like I know what I am doing.

 

Hey, sorry for the delay, post secondary is killing my time, as well all the mods for my new vehicle haha.

Those pictures are a really good start, i should send you some of mine, i caught the northenr lights in edmonton, which i though was impossible do to the light pollution.

If you shoot at a low iso, you will reduce the digital noise, i would tinker with the shutter speed. Its crazy what even a medocre lens ( my 18-105) picked up stars beside a bight hotel.

The slower the speed, in pitch black you will get what us humans see as a firework. Remote shutter is a great idea, i always carry one...but never use it...almost thinking of selling it actaully. Now your probally wondering "how can i reduce the blur?", simple dont use auto foc, swtich to manual, get a light or laser ( i use both), zoom in and focus, or focus to infinity, set apperature as low as possible( most lens are 1.8-3.5) yes there are lower. The aperature allows your camera ( int he dark) to prevent you camera' sensor from intrudicing noise.