Here is a simple check of the IMT O-Rings on a 2005 3.0. Note different years have different locations.

If you find that they are leaking here is a link for a short route of replacing: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-32135/





1) Simply fold a clean paper towel in quater





2) Wipe the lower portions of the IMTs (tuning valve), if oil is present on paper towel, your IMT O-Rings need to be replaced.

 

Thanks Rick,

That should be clear enough for most folks. maybe you could package the paper towels and sell them as IMT leak test kits.

 

Great photos, easy explanation. This is a no-brainer for every 3.0 owner. Just do it....

 

Awesome work!
I have a 2006 3.0....did they start using the green rings this year?

 

This question has been addressed before.....No one seems to have an answer.

Feeling adventurous today?

 

On my recent repair job, the dealer replaced the rings on my car with the Jag # C2S40669 @ $3.15 each.

 

I have no idea where to find this IMT valve on my 2000 S-Type. I've been staring at the engine for an hour now...Anybody know where this is?

 

 

Hey, thanks.

What's that thing that's circled? Is the arrow pointing to where the o-ring is located?

 

Yes those are the IMT Tuning Valves. There are 2 bolts holding each valve in the manifold (Plenum). The o-rings are located on the valves and inside the manifold (Plenum).

 

Yes, the 2006 3.0 has the old yellow rings. I just changed them for a friend today.

 

I don't remember anyone ever reporting here that they found green-colored, factory-installed IMT O-rings in their S-Type 3.0. Therefore, I have to assume that even the final 2008 model-year cars have the yellow-colored IMT O-rings. Perhaps Brutal will chime in here and confirm or dispute....

 

Rick - (+5) I've read this entire thread from your very first post. It has been wonderfully instructive. I hope the members of this forum realize what a terrific service you've provided. You brought clarity to the issue with excellent photos, comprehensive parts and tools list, and detailed instructions. Even a neanderthal like me can understand the problem and, if necessary, perform the fix (although I undoubtedly would fix this and probably break something else under there, so I'll leave it to a trained professional). I am truly grateful I found a forum that has you in it. I look forward to your future posts and words of wisdom. Kudos and many, many thanks.
Steve

 

Steve thanks for the kind words above. It puts a big smile on my mug when someone says "you can't do that" or "dealer fix", and it is an easy DIY.

Glad to help you and everyone out on this forum!

Do you happen to have a Cadillac and belong to a certain forum that I did a write up on a procedure and had well over a hundred looksees and not even an F.Y. out of one of them. Yes gentlemen I had a serious rant on that thread.

If anyone cares, it was a inferior plastic clip that "pops off" rather than breaks in the model and can be easily repaired (free fix) if you take the time to fix it. Every post I had read on the issue, "dealer only fix" HA!!! Takes less than 2 hours with a phillips screw driver.

 

Rick - IMHO everyone deserves an "atta boy" once in awhile and you sure earned it with this thread.

Nope, no Caddy in this household; just 2 S-Type 3.0s. Sorry I missed your rant. I'm sure it was entertaining, to say the least.
Thanks again,
Steve

 

Hey Rick,

What did you expect from your snooty country club Escalade forum? Those guys probably don't even pump their own gas much less attempt an actual DIY repair!

Stick to the forum where you know you are appreciated....

 

Hi, I have P0171 and P0174. I've sprayed everywhere in the engine bay with brake cleaner and cant find any leak. However I have done this and there is a little oil on the IMT valves. Based on this post it suggests they are leaking of course but is that enough to cause my codes? Also everything was ok then both these codes at the same time, is it likely both banks would have issue at the same time or is one failing enough to set both?
Thanks, G

 

Are you looking for a change in idle quality/speed, or are you watching short term fuel trims in your diagnosis?

 

So far just listening to engine but good point, I'll probably need a friend to spray whilist I check the live data.

 

If there's a leak you should probably change them it's a bit of a scutter but not too bad, I'd advise removing the cabin filter housing for access.
Check the fuel trims at idle and 2500 rpm, they'll tell the story of an air leak.