Hi guys. There's been talk of the engine getting heat soaked and the lack of efficiency of the intercooling system due to it being connected to the expansion tank. Have any of you isolated the intercooling tract? If so, how did you do it, where'd you mount the tank and did you swap to a larger heat exchanger while you were at it?

The reoccuring topic is doing this and hooking up a killer chiller. But, I think with a big enough tank and heat exchanger, we could probably get some good results even without it. The tank would possibly even allow for ice in the tank when we're at the track.

As a sub topic, how do we even know our intercooler pump is even working on our stock setup? Is there any kind of dummy light that comes on if it stops working? Any way to test that it is working?

 

Is there a good isometric drawing of the IC circuit? Something as a starting point of reference to work with.

 

Have a look here, its not worth it imho:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...cooling-15894/

Go for a chiller killer or water kit if you want to cool down more.

 

High-Flow Intercooler Pump Kit - Jaguar Performance Parts

I have no value to add to this thread, but looking forward to the discussion. The above link shows that this pump will work for an STR, so maybe this helps our cooling needs???

 

Or you can save yourself $200, and buy the pump here:
Bosch Automotive 0392022002 - Bosch Intercooler Water Pumps - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Have already installed this one in a STR. The difference in flow is only about 12% to 14% more, so will not give any magical improvements.

 

In that 2009 thread there's talk of a fan as if they didn't realise the SC radiator is at the front so gets the ait first. I know people have mentioned having a/c on to get the fan running fast so how about a mod so that a/c is off but fan on max? (Won't be a major gain, though.)

Not sure they realised there's the IAT2 (intake air temp sensor #2) which measures the air after the intercoolers. It's another input to the PCM for it to decide fuelling.

edit: I read further, and IAT2 is in there - d'oh

 

As Avos mentioned, quick and reliable results can be had with a "Chiller Killer" (CK). Replumbing the I/C circuit will be money consuming whilst likely yielding marginal results. Mafioso uses Water Wetter and claims this has helped some in the Texas heat. This plus a CK may be the way to go?

 

+1. My XKR is set up to continually monitor the temperature of both cooling circuits and they are largely uncorrelated, even though they are connected with a tiny vent tube.

 

Yes it's very interesting how Jaguar set it up. I saw the two cooling systems were connected but found the fluids don't seem to mix very much? The small vent tube is to allow the systems to balance out the pressures.

At idle I have very cold intercoolers with the radiator up to full temperature. So they definably do not mix the fluids enough to make much difference.

Thanks for the feedback on an uprated IC pump. When I was looking at the E55's swapping IC pumps out was pretty common. But that car has extremely bad heat soak problems compared to the STR.
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WhiteXKR, thank you very much for your input regarding the I/C cooling circuit. I ran a low temp thermo. Do you feel it helps? qwiketz, Eurotoys offers a larger I/C radiator? Perhaps this plus upgraded pump will help.

 

How can low temp thermo help with IC, bearing in mind the circuits hardly mix? (It can't.) What else is a lower temp thermo good for (apart from setting codes if too low)?

Just wondering, where would you put a larger "I/C" (Jag calls it SC) radiator?

 

I have not taken any data before and after with the low temp thermostat. In my estimation, though, low temp thermostat has a marginal benefit. I would not be surprised if the 12 degree lower setpoint lowers the intake temp a degree a or two by conduction and convection...hardly enough to make a disecerable difference....though for the price it can be considered a very inexpensive incremental change...albeit a very tiny one. I was replacing my thermostat anyway so I opted for it. The 12 degree lower temp is well above the threshold where it would throw codes.

 

I ran the low temp thermo. A mechanic replaced it with a stock unit while he was addressing the thermo housing leak. No codes were thrown whilst it was used for a year. As for it being effective, JagV8 may have a point. Wouldn't we want to use a higher temp thermo as a means to isolate radiator coolant for a longer period of time before allowing it to be exchanged with the blocks hotter coolant?

 

I suppose you could spray any gas that's just expanded (makes it cold) onto either ICs or the SC radiator. What's cheap and safe? Nitrogen? CO2?

 

Where can the lower temp thermostat be sourced, and is it a WaxStat?

 

plums, low temp thermo can be had from Eurotoys ($35). Tell Mike I sent you and you're a forum moderator (discount?).

 

...Get it from Eurotoys. They give you a OEM Jag thermostat gasket for free. I replaced mine when I did the 1.7lb pulley upgrade. Cost less than the OEM Jag thermostat. Even if it has a marginal benefit its worth it to save $. I haven't had any codes nor housing leaks since install. YOu have to make sure you line up the Notch on the thermostat with the housing or else you will have a leak. Its clearly stated on the directions that come with it.

Cheers!

 

WTF! lolz I had to pay $50 when I bought it recently, I mentioned that I was a Jag forum member etc...he wouldn't budge anything lower than $50....

 

Anyone hear of Water Wetter? Wondering if would help.

Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives

 

Good question, I wonder if this is compatible to use with our OEM Jag coolant in our Jags?