There is only one part number per fitment on the locks throughout the production run, so all must have the same internal micro-switches, as opposed to the pre-facelift cars having external plunger switches along the line of the boot/trunk arrangement.

 

Thanks, Bud. But what are internal micro-switches? Just something for me to eliminate. I've been cleaning the door inside seals with a toothbrush (to clean all those hidden spaces of dirt build-up through the years) when the interior light issue happened. I may have damaged one of them. Thanks

 

The switches are internal to the lock assembly itself. The only "fix" is to replace the defective lock assembly once it is isolated.

 

thanks

 

I can tell you what I would do - but it would take a lot of time...:
I assume you do not know, which of the 4 door locks is the culprit - and you are not even sure, if one of those 4 is definitely the culprit...
So it looks like a big job - and I would only hope, that my way to tackle the issue would lead to the goal:
I would approach the issue under the - hopefully correct - assumption that the micro switch in on of those 4 locks does not open anymore, when the door is closed - and if that assumption is correct, the following would make sense:
Start dismantling the interior trim (and I hope you know, how that works) from that door first, where you think it is most likely that the issue is located (maybe where you polished the most before with your toothbrush). Next you have to lift off that black gluey waterproofing material, to get access to the door-lock - and to minimizes the damage to the black stuff, use a heat gun to make the glue dissolve a bit and pull off the black stuff. Find the connector on the door-lock - that connector, where you expect the wires are, which go to the microswitch. So if my assumption above is correct, pulling off the connector would simulate a closed door and a functional micro switch - and having this connector disconnected and the other 3 doors closed, should result in the interior light going of after the usual delay. If it was not that door, same procedure on the next door - and hopefully you don't have to do that to all 4 doors - and even if, hopefully the forth door brings the awaited result. Then you would know, which locking mechanism has the faulty switch. And then you would have nothing to loose by spraying WD40 or similar into that faulty switch, and see if this would magically cure the switch. If not try to find a new locking mechanism. The rear ones seem to be priced reasonably, the front one unreasonably. And you could abviously also attempt, if it is possible to open the locking mechanism without destroying if and send out a "search party" for that micro-switch...

 

I just confirmed this in the wiring diagrams. See figure 09.1 for the interior lighting:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...x2022001en.pdf

Compare that with figure 12.1 for the door locking system. Pick any of the four doors, and wire numbers are the same. The rear doors report their position status (door latch = closed) to the RECM. The front doors report door latch status to the GECM. From what I understand, this is the signal that controls both the warning message and the interior lights.

Note only the front doors report whether locked or not (fig 12.1), but that shouldn't affect the lights or warning messages.

If you wanted to play with the latch switches, I think you could actuate the latches with a sturdy screwdriver. With the door open, you could mechanically trip the latches as if the door was closed. Don't know if that would help with troubleshooting, but maybe one of the latches would feel funny compared to the others.

I'm still confused why the lights are misbehaving, but not the warning messages. Then I noticed something odd in figure 09.1. At the left of the page, halfway down, there's a "Master Interior Lighting Switch". The location is listed as the roof console switch pack. I couldn't find any details about this switch or what it's supposed to do, but maybe it got bumped? I'm not near my car so can't compare. I think this one is the middle of the three switches in a row, next to the one that turns off the rear parking aid.

 

That master interior light switch, which Karl mentioned...: Can it really be that easy? Did you accidentally press the centre (middle) switch (the big one) on the (frt.) upper dome lamp? Pressing that would switch the interior lights to permanently on - but I would have thought, that this would have reset the very latest when you start the car next time... But maybe that switch (or electronic behind it) itself is broken? I mentioned it before in another thread that it can be difficult to pull down that dome-lamp, and even more difficult to latch it back in. But I think it would be worth it: If you pull it down and if you pull off the connector, both the lights of the dome lamp as well as THAT switch are disconnected, but the remaining interior lights would behave as intended, if the door-latches are all OK. Check this. If that is the case, I may have a solution - something I did on my 2004 S-Type: That dome unit electronic of mine is stuffed. I pulled the connector, cut off those 2 wires from the connector, which I need to power the dome lamp and I placed LED bulbs (they do not need that much power! Do not try this with the original filament bulbs...) into the dome light unit (all three: The dome lamp plus those two map reading lights, and I power them all in parallel with those 2 wires. Thus, I got proper light in the car when I enter, and I would never use those map reading lights anyway...

 

Karl, and Peter; thanks for these. So much for my non-mechanical brain to absorb. But I will test them one by one. But I need to understand your messages and then plan on how to test. Peter, I had more trouble doing the visor lamps than the dome. So maybe I will start with the dome. Thanks, gents. Also, if you are in Melb around 20 Nov, it is concours day for the Jaguar Car Club of Victoria. More in this link https://www.jagvic.org.au/

 

no message when door is closed, 'door open' in dash when door is open

 

Thanks, Peter. I can do this during the holidays. Meanwhile, I will pull out and test fuses.

 

Karl, you beautiful person. Gents, it is sorted. It was the Master Interior Light Switch. The reason why I missed it? The other two switches pop out when turning on and in when turning off. The master DOES NOT. I was fiddling with it because I want to paint the scratch over. Thank you for the help, gents.

Summary:

• when the master is on,
  • the interior lights are on when driving
  • the light stays on for a long time (more than 5 mins) when the engine is off and no one sitting
• it is annoying and somewhat worrying as one thinks there might be a bigger issue
• this went long enough for me to use inside glow lights (2nd pic)

 

Well, that is exactly what I thought after Karl gave me that idea in his last post... Simply switch on / switch off...
Your dome lamp looks different than on my 2004, but somewhere I have similar 3 switches...
So one issue solved. I hope your battery will now pass the test of time.
Again: I recommend a CTEK battery charger, probably the next level up from 7A.

 

Thanks, Peter. Strange that you connected the battery to the interior lights. I didn't think they would draw enough to get the battery flat. Anyway, getting a CTEK this weekend. Cheers

 

Hi Roberto, you must have misunderstood something - I know, it is complicated, what I did...: I did not have flat-battery problems. I had probs with the dome lamp unit. So my dome-lamp electronics went up in smoke. There is this connector with many wires connected to these electronics. I found those 2 (plus and minus), which give me battery voltage when the door is open, and then fades out, when the doors are closed. I connected those 2 cables to my 3 new LED bulbs (dome, and 2 x map) in parallel. They all light up now when I open the door. Actually better than before.

 

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. There's no need to point out how wonderful I am, as it's just a given around here. Think of the all the bandwidth that would get tied up. However, since you did mention it, you forgot the part about how I smell nice, too. It kinda all goes together, but you will be forgiven this time as you're still kinda new.

Back to that switch, I'd really like to know more about it, such as how Jaguar described its function. Anybody got an early model owner's manual handy?

 

I totally misunderstood. You always seem to fall into complex situations.

 

Thanks, bud. I have been looking for an owner's manual for this model. Been searching the site but have had no luck so far. Some links no longer work. Anyway, as mentioned, that switch is different from the other two, in it does not change its position from on/off.

 

The kind that used to come as a printed handbook with the car?

Or a workshop-type manual, with mechanical, electrical, etc stuff?

 

Just the kind that comes as a printed handbook, thanks

 

Best I have is attached.

Same as from https://topix.jaguar.jlrext.com/topi...0&groupId=1655