The battery is brand new and ive pulled all the grounds and ground down the contact points just to be on the safe side.
No luck still stalls. Ive checked signal to the pcm for both cam sensors and is good, checked signal coming from pcm to injector with test light and its lit up then goes out and dies. I checked the signal from the pcm to the coil and its there until the engine stops running. I checked all the wires from all the injectors to the pcm and the resistance and continuity is good. The same with the maf sensor and was good.
Everything im told is the pcm has failed and had i not tried a different pcm i would believe it.
I'm not sure what direction to go now.

 

PCM on later cars and I think this will shut off injectors if it thinks misfires occur, to avoid cat damage.

Fuel trims may help but misfires can be all sorts of things, even a blocked cat.

 

If it's any consolation, I'm as baffled as you are.

Did you drain the old fuel and try fresh? I didn't see you mention that yet. I hate to harp on it, but want to make sure all of the basics are covered.

When faced with a perplexing problem like this, one that seems to defy all normal troubleshooting, one of the toughest things to do is shift gears and start all over again from the beginning.

Has the car ever run properly for you? Or did it come to you as a work in progress?

 

the gas is fresh, and i did buy this car as a non running car with brand new engine and transmission. It was an elderly ladies car driven daily than the engine went out so she purchased a new remanufactured engine and paid somebody to install it and its never ran since. the person that installed it messed everything up.
I fixed all the issues that prevented it from running and now i can't keep it running. im racking my brain trying to think of everything that he could have done when removing and istalling the engine that might lead to my current issue.
I called the original owner and they said before the engine went out they had no issues whatsoever. So from the time he worked on it until me now the stalling issue is new to the car.
All of the things i have done is telling me that something is telling the pcm to shut down the injector pulse. With two different pcms having same issue i rulled out the pcm, two different engine harness's i ruled out wiring issue. I had very high fuel trims and have sorted them out with all new o2 sensors,maf sensor and bad vacuum leak on intake. Ive tried 2 different new ckp sensors and no change so i know they are good. both cam pos sensors are new.
I also tried another throttle body and no change. there are just a few original sensors that havent been changed, the fuel temp sensor,fuel pressure sensor and iac valve. Other than those everything is new to the car.

 

I would recommend that you install a fuel pressure gauge and keep it on until the car is up to operating temperature and see if the pressure drops off. That would check the fuel pump. You say you have no codes and I am not sure if the temperature sensor would throw a code. I am thinking that your temperature sensor is going into fault when the engine gets to operating temperature and shuts the engine down. Remember that the gauges in the car are just a placebo and do not give you the most accurate indications.

As for the A/C compressor it may be failing and that is why it is dark in color. I recently replaced mine (XK8) it worked but would provide a vibration when running. When I took it apart to see the problem many parts broke off and scored other parts in the unit. I would recommend flushing the A/C system before you replace anything associated with it if you elect to do that.

 

If it really runs 10 mins then you're not looking for central things like O2 sensors, coils, plugs, etc as it would fail far sooner and also probably set codes.

You're looking at what happens after 10 mins, i.e. just before and as it fails (*).

What happens if you let it run (say) 8 mins, turn off for a few secs, then restart? How long before it fails? Is it the 2 mins remaining of the 10 or what?

(*) may be heat soak, EVAP purge, or well who knows but you're short of data so figure ways to get more

You can of course record sensor data (OBD live data) with a view to seeing what occurs at about the failure point.

 

So it runs now for a little longer than 10 minutes but regardless of the run time it stalls. Not sure what data im looking for. Ive been watching everything from coolant temp to fuel trims to idle speed to o2 data and nothing points to a problem, the timing moves all over the place but im not sure what is normal and not.
The fuel pressure remains same all the way till it dies then it goes up nothing abnormal there.

 

Post #26.

 

ok i captured some data and one thing i noticed is that the CALC LOAD went from 17.6% to 32% then to 42% just before it died. that seems a bit to high to me.

 

heres some data i captured that looked off.
CALC LOAD- 17.3 32.2 to 42.0 then dies
MAF - .78 1.11 to 1.22 then dies
IGN ADV - 5.5 11.5 12.5 11.0 then dies

 

I feel it would be worth answering the question in post 26 but it's up to you.

Tried with A/C disabled (off)? Same exactly?

 

Anyone in the area with a SDD unit that can help? You do nee to tell us what state you are in..

 

I'm in ky.

 

no matter if i shut it off and start back up it still dies. its within 20 minutes it stalls no exact time it just loses injector pulse and dies. looks like it may be a part out car anyone looking for a zero mile engine and rebuilt transmission?

 

A competent jag tech should find it but parting it out is another option.

 

As much as I'd love to take this car off your hands at a fire sale price, don't give up hope yet. I HIGHLY doubt the fix is going to be expensive.

You say the engine stalls after approximately 10 minutes of idling. Think about it. That is a very unusual condition. Unless you're a limo driver running the AC while waiting to pick up Al Gore after a global warming symposium, nobody routinely idles that long.

After all this work has been done, has the car actually been driven yet? The PCM could be stuck in some sort of learning mode (normal after disconnecting the battery) and doesn't know how to process a long period of just idling. If the car will stay running long enough to take it out for a test drive, do that with a minimum of idling and see what happens. If concerned the car might die, stick close to home on secondary roads.

That's my Theory du Jour™.

 

Wow I never gave that a thought, it's deffinately worth a try. We shall see, thanks.

 

You say the trans and engine were replaced? Was the engine from the same year car?

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

Fingers crossed for you. I forgot to add one thing. Before trying a test drive, disconnect the battery again. That will put the PCM in a fresh learning mode, in case it has already taught itself any "bad" habits during extended idling.

Keep us posted.

 

it was a brand new remanufactured engine.