I have a 2003 s type r . About six mounths ago i had a crack in the radiator just below the upper radiator hose.I order three diffrent radiators from web sites that said they would fit.None did so i ordered one from dealer. So i changed the radiator it was cold out drove to work about thirty miles no problem. On my way home got hot out so i cut the air on within minutes it started to overheat. Pulled over let it cooldown drove home ok. Did a little research on computer seemed everyone was saying air pocket tried everything same thing turn air on it will overheat.I thought it might be blown headgasket.There is a guy close that says he is a jaguar specilist took it to him he said there was a lot of air in system.He charged me five hundred dollars said it took him nine hours to get air out it was cold so we test drove with heat on. Worked ok next morning it was hot cut the air on within minutes overheated. Went back to the same shop he said the fan was not working that it was nothing he did tested the fan wires they had power so i ordered a new fan replaced fan and thermostat.Same thing if you cut the air on car overheats.Next i ordered waterpump replaced that no change took the electric water pump off put power to it seems ok. Felt the hoses comming from supercharger water pump fell like they have good pressure.This has been going on for about six mounths it is good to keep the miles off the car but i would like to drive it. The closest dealership is about sixty miles away and it seems like the local shops would not really no what to do . Any suggustion would be nice. I see some things about the dccv but it seems like the vents inside blow right. I dont see any oil in antifreeze,or antifreeze in oil.Did presure test seemed ok.Please help.

 

when you turn the AC on do you hear the fan?

 

Yes and when it runs hot the fan stays on for a while to cool it down.

 

Just went outside to wash the car.I ran it with the heat on full blast warmed up to normal spot held there for fifteen min. then started heating up i heard the fan speeding up but the temp never went down.

 

Thats a strong indication of an Air pocket still or improper coolant.

Do you have an OBDII scanner? can you read the ECT sensor?

 

when i took it to that tech he cleared the codes . He says the only codes were missfire on like three cylinders.I had recently changed all eight coils he said they were probaly from before. There is a radiator shop not that far away i wounder if i should take it there and see if they have a presure filler . I heard that would get rid of air pockets.

 

Right now i just have water in it because if i run it with the air on the fluid comes out under the cap.I also purchased a new cap just in case.Do you think if i put coolant in it there would be a diffrance.I also flushed it about ten times and the last time i tried to drive it i had the right coolant and some stuff called super cool that is suppose to make it run cooler. It ran good for about twenty minutes then started to overheat.

 

Did you change the thermostat? If you didn't it's likely stuck closed with only a little coolant going through by-pass.

 

yes three diffrent ones even cut the guts out of one and tried it same thing happend.

 

I also replaced the short piece of hose on the back of the thermostat houseing it was swollen up pretty big.

 

Does "air" mean opening the air vents? Or a/c (aircon)? If a/c, then have you got a problem with it which then causes the coolant issue? (Be certain or you'll be chasing the wrong thing!)

 

There is a maze of coolant hoses on passenger side near radiator. Are you sure these are connected/routed correctly when replacing the radiator? One guy here destroyed his motor by connecting wrong hoses here. Are you sure the motor is actually getting hot rather than a faulty temp. sending switch/wire? Was there a message on message center regarding high temp.?

 

yes i mean a/c when i cut the a/c on the car overheats pretty fast.When the heat is on it takes about twenty minutes.As far as the hoses go they seem like they are pre made to only fit in one spot ,but when i get home from work i will check the JTIS diagram.I would like to know witch hose he put in the wrong place the only hose that looks a little odd is the small one that goes into the tank near the little vent screw.There is only two little houses and the other one has to go were it is so that one has to go there.

 

I also noticed on day i was running it on day without radiator cap on to try and get air pockets out.When the heat was on seemed ok when i turned on the a/c fluid started comming out of the top of tank if i pushed the gas a little it would shoot up about inch and a half.I was starting to wonder if maybe the head gasket is just blown to were it lets exuast presure into cooling system.If that is the case i dont know why the a/c would make a diffrence.Thanks for the help.

 

Sounds like a plumbing issue to me as well. One thing to note.. My DCCV failed without ever showing any issue with climate controlled air flow. These are known failure points. Since you are having such severe issues I would think it wouldn't hurt to replace it. BTW.. My control panel also started failing without showing the typical issues.

 

More reason to carefully look at the hose routing and replace the DCCV. When you turn on the A/C it is not routing coolant correctly and the water pump is just building pressure outside of the engine cooling flow. Remember.. The DCCV is just a valve that regulates coolant flow to the heater core. If it is not routing it correctly, you aren't getting coolant to the engine.

 

It has been a while since i changed the radiator but i dont think i removed any hoses off of the dccv , just kind of pushed it back to get get the old one out . It is raining hard here . I think i am going to clean the garage out so i can get the car in and remove the radiator check all the hoses ect.The DCCV did look crappy and that was right were the crack in radiator was leaking probaly right down on the DCCV.I just dont no because all the vents inside seem to blow the right temps.

 

you mentioned you are only running water in your coolant system, if you are please get it out of there ASAP.

Water and alum. do not mix well you need a neutral PH fluid in there.

Worst case senario in the mean time. bypass the DCCV and see how the cooling system does.

 

Drained the system just finished cleaning the garage and getting the car in . I am going to start tacking stuff a part so i can get to the DCCV. I read somewhere you can bench test the valves that they sometimes stick. May be i will find the problem .

 

if you get creative, you can buy a couple of fittings and some hose and just bypass the inlet of the DCCV and loop it back into the coolant system. Eliminating it from the circuit all together for troubleshooting purposes.