2003 Stype No power - electrical failure ??
#1
2003 Stype No power - electrical failure ??
Hi everyone. Thanks for a usefull and helpful forum.
I have enjoyed reading your posts over thee last few days.!
My problem is, I parked up my beautiful Stype yesterday evening after a nice run out. I went out this morning and put the key in the ignition and there is nothing happening when i turn the key!!!
When i put the key there are no dash lights only the airbag light comes on and the stereo lights up and the ac console. No CEL, no oil light, no seat belt lights- nothing. Wierd.
Also when i turn the key there is a little click comes from under the hood from the engine area.
I had tripleA out and they said the battery is fine.
My friend checked all the fuses and tried switching over some relays but nothing changes. We noticed one of the relays in the trunk gets hot, the one on the lower row in the middle.
We checked fuses under the hood, in the foot well, and in the trunk and none a blown. Anyone any ideas? Could it be the anti theft system playing up? Or something shorting out?
Please help !
Has this happened to anyone else before?
Barry
I have enjoyed reading your posts over thee last few days.!
My problem is, I parked up my beautiful Stype yesterday evening after a nice run out. I went out this morning and put the key in the ignition and there is nothing happening when i turn the key!!!
When i put the key there are no dash lights only the airbag light comes on and the stereo lights up and the ac console. No CEL, no oil light, no seat belt lights- nothing. Wierd.
Also when i turn the key there is a little click comes from under the hood from the engine area.
I had tripleA out and they said the battery is fine.
My friend checked all the fuses and tried switching over some relays but nothing changes. We noticed one of the relays in the trunk gets hot, the one on the lower row in the middle.
We checked fuses under the hood, in the foot well, and in the trunk and none a blown. Anyone any ideas? Could it be the anti theft system playing up? Or something shorting out?
Please help !
Has this happened to anyone else before?
Barry
#2
#3
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50cool50, first off, welcome to the forums. I Think you will find a lot of useful information around here. We are a friendly bunch and as a result, we like to get to know each other. With that being said, please stop by the "New Member" section and introduce yourself. By doing this you will get to learn who the movers and shakers are around these parts.
As for your problem. A relay getting hot is a clear sign to me that the relay is bad. Based on the relay that you are describing, odds are what you are experiencing is loss of power to your security module which is killing power to the ECU, which is leading to the loss of lights in the dash. I would first replace relay R1 (the middle relay in the bottom row). You can prove this relay working by turning the key to the RUN position (motor can be running or not) and try to move the windows up and down. If the windows work, then you have sufficient power via relay R1 to start the car. If that doesn't fix it, then it is looking like the ECU took a spike and got fried. You can prove the ECU quazi good by getting your hands on a code reader and seeing of you can connect to the ECU. if you can not, then the ECU has suffered a failure (or loss power to it) and that is where you should be focusing your attention at this point.
Hope this helps.
As for your problem. A relay getting hot is a clear sign to me that the relay is bad. Based on the relay that you are describing, odds are what you are experiencing is loss of power to your security module which is killing power to the ECU, which is leading to the loss of lights in the dash. I would first replace relay R1 (the middle relay in the bottom row). You can prove this relay working by turning the key to the RUN position (motor can be running or not) and try to move the windows up and down. If the windows work, then you have sufficient power via relay R1 to start the car. If that doesn't fix it, then it is looking like the ECU took a spike and got fried. You can prove the ECU quazi good by getting your hands on a code reader and seeing of you can connect to the ECU. if you can not, then the ECU has suffered a failure (or loss power to it) and that is where you should be focusing your attention at this point.
Hope this helps.
#4
Hi , thank you so much for taking the time from your sunday and writing the quick replies. I know you jag lovers were probably out washing your jags on a sunday too.
Fraser, when the key is inserted and turned to the first notch the airbag light comes on, and the stereo and ac panel light up and that's it.
When the key is turned to the start position nothing happens. The motor does not turn over. The airbag light stays on.
The headlights work on the car.
will check the windows, and look at a code reader.
thanks guys!
Fraser, when the key is inserted and turned to the first notch the airbag light comes on, and the stereo and ac panel light up and that's it.
When the key is turned to the start position nothing happens. The motor does not turn over. The airbag light stays on.
The headlights work on the car.
will check the windows, and look at a code reader.
thanks guys!
#5
The windows do not go up and down.
Also I switched over that relay R1 for one next to it to see if the car behaved any differently. Still nothing works, the car wont turn over but now i noticed the headlights and brake lights are on permanently, the right indicator blinker light in the dash is lit and the oil light is permanently illuminated- Even when the key is removed!!!!! And here is the really weird thing, i switched back the relays again to original position- and NOTHING CHANGES!! the brake and headlights stay on, the right indicator light in the dash stays illuminated and the oil light stays on. So i tried switching the relay with a different one and nothing changes. Its just staying in this condition. So now i have to disconnect the battery so it doesn't drain.
Anyone any ideas as to what has cooked??
Also I switched over that relay R1 for one next to it to see if the car behaved any differently. Still nothing works, the car wont turn over but now i noticed the headlights and brake lights are on permanently, the right indicator blinker light in the dash is lit and the oil light is permanently illuminated- Even when the key is removed!!!!! And here is the really weird thing, i switched back the relays again to original position- and NOTHING CHANGES!! the brake and headlights stay on, the right indicator light in the dash stays illuminated and the oil light stays on. So i tried switching the relay with a different one and nothing changes. Its just staying in this condition. So now i have to disconnect the battery so it doesn't drain.
Anyone any ideas as to what has cooked??
#6
Hi evertyone again. I tried the ODB2 reader. and there is no connection with the car. The reader cannot establish a connection.?
Also when we reconnect the battery and the door is open and put the key in the ignition the alarms starts going off..which is normal??the alarm stystem is OK?
So what do you guys thin the problem is? ECU?
Also when we reconnect the battery and the door is open and put the key in the ignition the alarms starts going off..which is normal??the alarm stystem is OK?
So what do you guys thin the problem is? ECU?
#7
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#8
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#9
Is the ECu that we are talking about - the front electronic module ECU box down in the drivers side footwell?
If i get a used on will it need reprogramming?
thanks for all your help again
Last edited by 50cool50; 09-25-2012 at 01:39 AM.
#10
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50cool50, according to my diagrams, it shows the ECU over on the passenger side (assuming LHD). It is probably tucked up under the dash or possibly on the firewall inside the engine bay. The S-type guys should be able to steer you right to it. I spend most of my time with the X-Types.
As for programming the ECU, I have heard mixed stories with it. If it is from the same year, you are going to have better luck. I am not sure what the magical method is to make it work without having to have things reprogrammed. Worst case, you can put in the new module and it will flash the security light at you, but you should see a change in what the car is doing. Then from there, about $100 and the dealership can reprogram the ECU to your car. If you look on e-bay, they have the ECU's on there for $119 delivered to your house. Probably worth a shot. Worst case, you put the module back out on e-bay and get the money back.
As for programming the ECU, I have heard mixed stories with it. If it is from the same year, you are going to have better luck. I am not sure what the magical method is to make it work without having to have things reprogrammed. Worst case, you can put in the new module and it will flash the security light at you, but you should see a change in what the car is doing. Then from there, about $100 and the dealership can reprogram the ECU to your car. If you look on e-bay, they have the ECU's on there for $119 delivered to your house. Probably worth a shot. Worst case, you put the module back out on e-bay and get the money back.
#12
Hi, billy 24:
You will note that this message thread is from 2012 and that the issue was never reported as "solved". You need to let us know what model/year Jaguar you are inquiring about... we cannot guess. Also,you need to post an "intro" on the New Members Forum in order to become a full member of the forum community:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/
You will note that this message thread is from 2012 and that the issue was never reported as "solved". You need to let us know what model/year Jaguar you are inquiring about... we cannot guess. Also,you need to post an "intro" on the New Members Forum in order to become a full member of the forum community:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/
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