This was my plan exactly, from what I remember there should be enough room on the board . I haven’t taken it apart yet so no pictures at the moment, parts should be here tomorrow or the next day. I hope to just replace that fuse until I can find the issue making it pop.

 

Or maybe a resettable fuse? Here’s a primer on how they work:

https://community.element14.com/tech...settable-fuses

If the description sounds too complicated, they are actually very simple components. Below a certain amperage, they conduct as normal. Above their trip rating, they stop current flow. Once power is removed, they reset automatically if the overload is not present.

Jaguar AC control modules on 2003+ models are prone to burnt traces. There is a guy who repairs them and adds resettable fuses to prevent repeat damage.

 

Interesting, I will look into them some more. I’m sure it would work however I should probobly use a standard fuse until I fix the issue, no? Just to not put too much strain on the small resettable fuse since it would have to be constantly working atm.

 

@ Karl: Hey! So, it is actually possible to teach an old dog new tricks...
A resettable fuse is called "circuit breaker". I obviously know them as they are in a fuse-box of a house.
But I did not know, that they exist meanwhile for 12VDC circuits.
Easy to find with google, if you know, they exist...

 

Evening fellas, here is the burnt out trace

 

It appears to be much worse this time, almost three inches toasted plus some other traces as collateral. This may be a tough fix lol.

The first time it was only half an inch burnt up… maybe I should’ve tried to fix that one

 

Wow!
And: A picture tells a thousand words...
I actually was not really sure, what you meant by "trace", now I know. The German word is "Leiterbahn", and that translated back into English is:
PCB track (PCB=printed circuit board),

So you wrote initially, you had that before, then you replaced the complete overhead unit (or at least the PCB)...
I.e. the issue is not with the PCB, but with what is connected to it.
I don't suppose you can see, what is connected externally to that burned out track?

it is very unlikely that even a cheap LED would cause this. More likely an incandescent bulb, which you want to connect now, but even that should not cause it. Is the incoming signal (the 12VDC) all OK? Once, you creased a "bridge" (a bit of wire - or better: 2 bits: one at each end) ilo. of the burned out track I suggest that you place in series between those 2 wire ends:
a 12V bulb, then a multimeter dials into current measurement (do not forget to swap the positive probe-cable over to the current input (and also do not forget to reverse that back into the voltage directly after, because if your forget, you'll kill your multimeter next time), and the other probe of the "current"-multimeter to the other wire end. This shows you the current that flows. P = U x I (Power consumption = Voltage x current). Take into account that mA means: 1/1000 Amps. Measure the voltage before (in the other Multimeter setting), but it should obviously be about 12.7V. The Power is in the unit W (Watts). An incandescent bulb in the dome light has probably 5W, LED less. If you measure anything else, there is something wrong with the bulb.

 

Here is where the track goes after those spots I’m not too sure.

 

Here, my glorious repair

Gonna test this out, if it doesn’t work I’ll just suck it up and buy a new one

 

 

So, did you put a circuit breaker in? I can't see it...
If it does not work, you want to buy another one?
I'd say it's then time to bypass the PCB.

 

So I gets to thinking…

How many bulbs are controlled via this circuit board in the roof console? I’m seeing 8 different bulbs. I’m wondering if you may have overlooked one in your troubleshooting, and it has failed and keeps overloading the circuit board.

Open your wiring diagram here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Scroll down to figure 09.1 for the interior lights.


Have you checked all 8 bulbs?

Two are in the roof console, shown at the center right of the page. They are called map lights. Each appears to be controlled individually by respective switches on the roof console.

The other 6 are controlled by a different portion of the roof console, shown at the center left. It initially looks a bit confusing, as two sections of the same roof console are illustrated separately. Right in the middle of the page, you will see splice CAS91. When this splice is grounded, either automatically by the GECM (when any door is open or initially unlocked) or manually by the button on the roof console (illustrated at the center left), the following 6 lights are illuminated:

Driver’s door
Front passenger door
Left fascia (footwell?)
Right fascia
Left rear map light
Right rear map light

Also note how the two rear map lights each have two bulbs. One is controlled directly by the local switch. The second bulb in each rear map light is controlled remotely either via the roof console switch or the GECM.

Not sure how these rear map lights are constructed. Maybe the first bulb is obvious but the second one not so much?

Just thinking out loud, wondering if one of those 8 bulbs is the root cause, and not the circuit board itself.

 

Another thought:

Can you isolate the burnt trace to a specific pin at the connector? Per the wiring diagram, the harness connector is CA250 and has 22 pins. If you search that big PDF for "CA250", you will get 62 hits across multiple systems, not just the interior lights. A cursory look shows the security system, moon roof control, panel illumination, garage door opener and a few more. Perhaps the overload is caused by one of those circuits?.

 

If anyone was wondering, the repair on the board has been successful thus far. But fixing the board is not all I did, I also got some new dome and map lights from superbrightleds and replaced the light housing. Everything seems to be working as intended so far .