2005 S-type R Track Times
Ya did well. 13.5 is about right for a bone stock STR in a 75+ degree high humidity environment. You could have popped on a bag of ice on each charge cooler (30 min. minimum) and tried to spray cold water at the intercooler, which is unfortunately behind the much smaller trans. and oil coolers. On a cool night with 25 lbs in the tires and an ECU hard re-set you propably could have ticked off a 13.1. An 05 STR with a K&N a/f knocked off a 4.8 sec. 0-60, 13.1 1/4 mile on a cold NJ night on the track. Yep, a K&N drop in a/f, 3 lb. pulley, "Mafioso" air intake elbow, low temp. thermo., s/c cooling circuit chiller, full exhaust mod, and an ECU tune will put you comfortably in the 12's. I've done-up high 12 second cars (2003 BMW M5, 2010 Camaro SS) on the street and highway. Keep up the good work, you'll get there.
Last edited by bfsgross; May 26, 2011 at 07:14 AM.
Thanks man. I assumed that its a mid 12 second car with the mild bolt ons we both mentoioned above, but may not be worth the $ to throw at the STR in my case. Who does tunes on these? Any type of good mail order guys on here or that guys on here use, or is it mostly custom tuning done for the comp on these?
I was goin to bring up a cooler with a few bags of ice for in between runs and put it off to the side of the staging lanes but I didn't have time. People laugh but that small bit could have helped knock a tenth off an when you're at the track it's simply to see what your best numbers are.
If I decide not to put any mods on it and just keeP it how it is ill go back on a nice cool night and see how it does with better weather conditions late in the season for ***** and giggles.
I was goin to bring up a cooler with a few bags of ice for in between runs and put it off to the side of the staging lanes but I didn't have time. People laugh but that small bit could have helped knock a tenth off an when you're at the track it's simply to see what your best numbers are.
If I decide not to put any mods on it and just keeP it how it is ill go back on a nice cool night and see how it does with better weather conditions late in the season for ***** and giggles.
No one really makes a good tune for these cars. You can get a boxed eurotoys tune for a grand, no data on it and no real tuning in it, just a box flash tune.
I am working on two diffrent things right now. We will have a custom dyno tuneable timing and fule option very soon.
Not bad numbers. I think the STR is worth wrenching on. The pulley for a few hundred bucks is 15-25 rwhp that's a big bang for the buck. I will hit 500rwhp on a 50shot when it am all said and done with maybe 3k in parts or less if my plan works out. Worse case should get it to 450rwhp that's not a bad hp to dollar ratio for any car.
It will never be a race car but a nice cruiser that will lay the smack down in sheeps clothing.
I am working on two diffrent things right now. We will have a custom dyno tuneable timing and fule option very soon.
Not bad numbers. I think the STR is worth wrenching on. The pulley for a few hundred bucks is 15-25 rwhp that's a big bang for the buck. I will hit 500rwhp on a 50shot when it am all said and done with maybe 3k in parts or less if my plan works out. Worse case should get it to 450rwhp that's not a bad hp to dollar ratio for any car.
It will never be a race car but a nice cruiser that will lay the smack down in sheeps clothing.
They're definitely a sleeper man!! A blank box flash tune, I'm unaware of what that is...if it's got no tuning written on it, does it learn the new mapping on it's own?
Your developing a tuning software for the cars? That's awesome man keep us updated!!
I'm guessing most guys run the 3lb pulley but what I read on eurotoys states some machining of the snout is involved if I remember correctly. Also guys aren't tuning the comp to meet the needs of the additional boost?
Is that safe?
For $3000 anything over 450whp is def a great bang for the buck. Good luck with it brother!
Your developing a tuning software for the cars? That's awesome man keep us updated!!
I'm guessing most guys run the 3lb pulley but what I read on eurotoys states some machining of the snout is involved if I remember correctly. Also guys aren't tuning the comp to meet the needs of the additional boost?
Is that safe?
For $3000 anything over 450whp is def a great bang for the buck. Good luck with it brother!
What is so special about the STR's m112 that commands hundreds of dollars for a blower pulley when they can be had for the Mustang Cobra m112's for about $100??
Troyer Performance
Besides the fact that the car it's going into has a leaper on the hood of course!
Take care,
George
Troyer Performance
Besides the fact that the car it's going into has a leaper on the hood of course!
Take care,
George
First question to Z06. What I mean is it's a obd flash tune. You can not modifiy it for mods, adjust timing etc... What they have is a one tune fits all 15hp maybe flash tune. For 1k bucks that's a no go for me and no proof how well it works even at that.
I am working on have a way to tune the STR. I am meeting with a guy today to see if we can go the simple route if not wen though I really had not planed to go that far with my car I will do a cost effective piggy back an work out a harness with a ecu manufature I have spoke to about the project. Since I can do it cheap and have the know how and resorces I will tackel the job for the benifit of the few of us that will use it.
George: main reason the euro toys is so pricy is because it's one of a kind. Good cobra pulleys are a dime a dozen and although the cobra 112 and ours Is very diffrent the pulley would be the same. Bad thing is your stock pully is already smaller the the upgraded ones for a cobra. We run much more boost stock then they do. That's why the cobra 2.80 fits the stock snout wher as our 2.60 needs to have it machined. If you put that cobra pulley on you would lose boost not gain it.
Now that dosnt mean it cost more to make ours just that they charge more
but what's a 100$ when your moding a euro car. You should mod a Mercedes Renntech stuff is made of gold apparently!!!
I am working on have a way to tune the STR. I am meeting with a guy today to see if we can go the simple route if not wen though I really had not planed to go that far with my car I will do a cost effective piggy back an work out a harness with a ecu manufature I have spoke to about the project. Since I can do it cheap and have the know how and resorces I will tackel the job for the benifit of the few of us that will use it.
George: main reason the euro toys is so pricy is because it's one of a kind. Good cobra pulleys are a dime a dozen and although the cobra 112 and ours Is very diffrent the pulley would be the same. Bad thing is your stock pully is already smaller the the upgraded ones for a cobra. We run much more boost stock then they do. That's why the cobra 2.80 fits the stock snout wher as our 2.60 needs to have it machined. If you put that cobra pulley on you would lose boost not gain it.
Now that dosnt mean it cost more to make ours just that they charge more
but what's a 100$ when your moding a euro car. You should mod a Mercedes Renntech stuff is made of gold apparently!!!
First question to Z06. What I mean is it's a obd flash tune. You can not modifiy it for mods, adjust timing etc... What they have is a one tune fits all 15hp maybe flash tune. For 1k bucks that's a no go for me and no proof how well it works even at that.
I am working on have a way to tune the STR. I am meeting with a guy today to see if we can go the simple route if not wen though I really had not planed to go that far with my car I will do a cost effective piggy back an work out a harness with a ecu manufature I have spoke to about the project. Since I can do it cheap and have the know how and resorces I will tackel the job for the benifit of the few of us that will use it.
George: main reason the euro toys is so pricy is because it's one of a kind. Good cobra pulleys are a dime a dozen and although the cobra 112 and ours Is very diffrent the pulley would be the same. Bad thing is your stock pully is already smaller the the upgraded ones for a cobra. We run much more boost stock then they do. That's why the cobra 2.80 fits the stock snout wher as our 2.60 needs to have it machined. If you put that cobra pulley on you would lose boost not gain it.
Now that dosnt mean it cost more to make ours just that they charge more
but what's a 100$ when your moding a euro car. You should mod a Mercedes Renntech stuff is made of gold apparently!!!
I am working on have a way to tune the STR. I am meeting with a guy today to see if we can go the simple route if not wen though I really had not planed to go that far with my car I will do a cost effective piggy back an work out a harness with a ecu manufature I have spoke to about the project. Since I can do it cheap and have the know how and resorces I will tackel the job for the benifit of the few of us that will use it.
George: main reason the euro toys is so pricy is because it's one of a kind. Good cobra pulleys are a dime a dozen and although the cobra 112 and ours Is very diffrent the pulley would be the same. Bad thing is your stock pully is already smaller the the upgraded ones for a cobra. We run much more boost stock then they do. That's why the cobra 2.80 fits the stock snout wher as our 2.60 needs to have it machined. If you put that cobra pulley on you would lose boost not gain it.
Now that dosnt mean it cost more to make ours just that they charge more
but what's a 100$ when your moding a euro car. You should mod a Mercedes Renntech stuff is made of gold apparently!!!CNC Machine Shop | Custom Waterjet, Plasma, Laser Cutting | eMachineShop.com
And sell out stock pulleys as boost pulleys for the fords
. Take care,
George
Just food for thought, if you feel like changing the game for the STR boys. (I don't have one YET).
Especially since I know you're playing with a piggyback engine management system but keeping quiet about it
Take care,
George
Ok I understand the tuning thing now. Keep us updated on how you make out. Im sure some of us would love to mimic your tune with similar mods.
I was also wondering the exact same thing about the cobra blower and pulley situation. Guess that answers that as well lol.
I was also wondering the exact same thing about the cobra blower and pulley situation. Guess that answers that as well lol.
What liability? You think eurotoys or mina will assume any liability if you pop a motor with their pulley? It's a pulley, not like anyone has a patent on them...
Just food for thought, if you feel like changing the game for the STR boys. (I don't have one YET).
Especially since I know you're playing with a piggyback engine management system but keeping quiet about it
Take care,
George
Just food for thought, if you feel like changing the game for the STR boys. (I don't have one YET).
Especially since I know you're playing with a piggyback engine management system but keeping quiet about it
Take care,
George
I may have already ordered an ECU and could be working with the manufactures in house tuners... Or maybe not
I just don't like putting somethig out there and finding out it doesn't work as I had expected. I will make sure if it is as cheap as I think it can be and works as well as I think it could it will be available to the whole community in one way or another. Lets just say its not as complicated as some may have made it seam 
BTW my iphone posting sucks! between auto correct and my horrid spelling I can barley read my own post. My apology's!
qwikcat, I'm holding off on the Eurotoys ECU tune cause I'm elated you and Mafioso are working on a "Real" ECU tune for the STR. Popped on the Borlas today. Love the deep breathing and sweet sound but Butt Dyno thinks it feels less low end trq.? Kinda thinking 2.50" pipe is too much but holding off returning to 2.25 till ECU can be tuned and chill out the intercooler.
Last edited by bfsgross; May 27, 2011 at 09:42 PM.
No question a better blower is the way to go depending on what you want. I know the STR isn't a race car and I have no plans to make mine one. I can get where I want to be on the 112 and it will cost less then just the price a good TS would run you sitting in a box uninstalled.
As for tuning there is no proof as to what gains can be had since it hasn't been done but anyone who knows anything about tuning can look at the A/F and see your giving up a lot of power.
Forced induction cars that are running 11-10.5 A/F under max boost are loosing a lot of power. You look for 12 on a street car under load. There is no question tuning will help, you also have other reasons for being able to controll things besides power. You want to upgrade inj, want to pull timing for NOS, want to data log, more you build the car more you need tuning. This setup would allow you to pull a USB cord out of the glove box and plug a lap top into the ecu and have full controll over your fuel and timing maps, a switched output for NOS or water inj. data logging, the ablity to scale for larger inj, switch between pump or race gas etc... And the plan is installed for less then the other off the shelf flash tunes, dependant on how long it takes to dyno tune it.
The old I don't hear any detanation and the butt says I am making power crowd is guessing at best. I have seen people talk about how much power they feel with there new boost controller only to find out they hooked it up wrong and it isn't working. The way to build a good, solid, well performing car that is safe and you know your getting what you pay for is to have it tuned and running to top safe performance with numarical proof that it is doing what it should.
It won't be for everyone, that's one of the drawbacks not many to sell means having to convince a company the harness will be worth it. It's not even needed for everyone, if your happy with what a 1.5 pulley, K&N and exhaust gets you this is not for you. But for those that want some power this may work out to be a nice option. No promisses yet since it's still in the concept phase and we don't know what that gain VS cost will be yet.
As for tuning there is no proof as to what gains can be had since it hasn't been done but anyone who knows anything about tuning can look at the A/F and see your giving up a lot of power.
Forced induction cars that are running 11-10.5 A/F under max boost are loosing a lot of power. You look for 12 on a street car under load. There is no question tuning will help, you also have other reasons for being able to controll things besides power. You want to upgrade inj, want to pull timing for NOS, want to data log, more you build the car more you need tuning. This setup would allow you to pull a USB cord out of the glove box and plug a lap top into the ecu and have full controll over your fuel and timing maps, a switched output for NOS or water inj. data logging, the ablity to scale for larger inj, switch between pump or race gas etc... And the plan is installed for less then the other off the shelf flash tunes, dependant on how long it takes to dyno tune it.
The old I don't hear any detanation and the butt says I am making power crowd is guessing at best. I have seen people talk about how much power they feel with there new boost controller only to find out they hooked it up wrong and it isn't working. The way to build a good, solid, well performing car that is safe and you know your getting what you pay for is to have it tuned and running to top safe performance with numarical proof that it is doing what it should.
It won't be for everyone, that's one of the drawbacks not many to sell means having to convince a company the harness will be worth it. It's not even needed for everyone, if your happy with what a 1.5 pulley, K&N and exhaust gets you this is not for you. But for those that want some power this may work out to be a nice option. No promisses yet since it's still in the concept phase and we don't know what that gain VS cost will be yet.
No question a better blower is the way to go depending on what you want. I know the STR isn't a race car and I have no plans to make mine one. I can get where I want to be on the 112 and it will cost less then just the price a good TS would run you sitting in a box uninstalled.
As for tuning there is no proof as to what gains can be had since it hasn't been done but anyone who knows anything about tuning can look at the A/F and see your giving up a lot of power.
Forced induction cars that are running 11-10.5 A/F under max boost are loosing a lot of power. You look for 12 on a street car under load. There is no question tuning will help, you also have other reasons for being able to controll things besides power. You want to upgrade inj, want to pull timing for NOS, want to data log, more you build the car more you need tuning. This setup would allow you to pull a USB cord out of the glove box and plug a lap top into the ecu and have full controll over your fuel and timing maps, a switched output for NOS or water inj. data logging, the ablity to scale for larger inj, switch between pump or race gas etc... And the plan is installed for less then the other off the shelf flash tunes, dependant on how long it takes to dyno tune it.
The old I don't hear any detanation and the butt says I am making power crowd is guessing at best. I have seen people talk about how much power they feel with there new boost controller only to find out they hooked it up wrong and it isn't working. The way to build a good, solid, well performing car that is safe and you know your getting what you pay for is to have it tuned and running to top safe performance with numarical proof that it is doing what it should.
It won't be for everyone, that's one of the drawbacks not many to sell means having to convince a company the harness will be worth it. It's not even needed for everyone, if your happy with what a 1.5 pulley, K&N and exhaust gets you this is not for you. But for those that want some power this may work out to be a nice option. No promisses yet since it's still in the concept phase and we don't know what that gain VS cost will be yet.
As for tuning there is no proof as to what gains can be had since it hasn't been done but anyone who knows anything about tuning can look at the A/F and see your giving up a lot of power.
Forced induction cars that are running 11-10.5 A/F under max boost are loosing a lot of power. You look for 12 on a street car under load. There is no question tuning will help, you also have other reasons for being able to controll things besides power. You want to upgrade inj, want to pull timing for NOS, want to data log, more you build the car more you need tuning. This setup would allow you to pull a USB cord out of the glove box and plug a lap top into the ecu and have full controll over your fuel and timing maps, a switched output for NOS or water inj. data logging, the ablity to scale for larger inj, switch between pump or race gas etc... And the plan is installed for less then the other off the shelf flash tunes, dependant on how long it takes to dyno tune it.
The old I don't hear any detanation and the butt says I am making power crowd is guessing at best. I have seen people talk about how much power they feel with there new boost controller only to find out they hooked it up wrong and it isn't working. The way to build a good, solid, well performing car that is safe and you know your getting what you pay for is to have it tuned and running to top safe performance with numarical proof that it is doing what it should.
It won't be for everyone, that's one of the drawbacks not many to sell means having to convince a company the harness will be worth it. It's not even needed for everyone, if your happy with what a 1.5 pulley, K&N and exhaust gets you this is not for you. But for those that want some power this may work out to be a nice option. No promisses yet since it's still in the concept phase and we don't know what that gain VS cost will be yet.
PM me for more info... Take care,
George
It will vairy from car to car under diffrent conditions. Mine is at 11.0 at boost but I have only dynoed it a few times. I have seen many in the 10.2-10.5 range. It's no revelation the factory computer is very rich and overly safe.
I have already heard rumore of this. Mine will be done de pinning the factory ecu and soldering a new custom one in but it may be needed if a off the shelf harness becomes a reality.
Can you confirm you mean you've seen many S-Type Rs (STRs) in that 10.2-10.5 range?






