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4.2 Coolant Leak From Back of Motor..

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  #21  
Old 07-08-2010, 07:01 AM
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By the way, this is the first serious repair that i've been responsible for (my STR has the certified 100K warranty). My coolant tank has been replaced under warranty, but the dealer wanted $1,850.00 to repair the leaking hose (about $1,650.00 in labor alone).
 
  #22  
Old 07-08-2010, 08:34 AM
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Ttwo,

I applaud you for being willing to get in there and do this job yourself. Being a newby to this forum you may not know that some of the best independant Jag mechanics around are members of this forum and reside in Texas. My point is, when you can't abide the dealers price there is an option short of doing it yourself, especially in Texas.
For many of our members, the closest service, dealer or indie, is many miles distant.
 
  #23  
Old 07-08-2010, 08:57 AM
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Being a newby to this forum you may not know that some of the best independant Jag mechanics around are members of this forum and reside in Texas.
Good point tarheal. If we knew which part of TX you were located, we could possibly get you a second opinion for the labor quote.
 
  #24  
Old 07-08-2010, 09:15 AM
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If you haven't installed a smaller s/c pulley and/or ported/polished the blower, this may be a time to do it in lieu of the fact that the blower is off for hose repair.
 
  #25  
Old 07-08-2010, 10:21 AM
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This is becoming a "common" failure

ttwotees - I hope it goes well. There's a partial (mostly) parts list on the .co.uk thread I posted a while back. I couldn't figure out the part # of the actual hose under the SC, though.
 
  #26  
Old 07-08-2010, 12:05 PM
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That repair sucks. I'm used to working on my c4 which is also cramped, but nothing on the level of this thing. I paid $1150 including parts from a reputable independent jag shop. Another member paid $950 including parts. You can find a much better price out there. The labor is about 6.5 hours and parts are the rest.

I sent out my blower to be worked on while the repair was done and it's more fun to drive now. It has much more midrange power and makes a little more blower wine when you're more than 25% into the throttle. It's fun!
 
  #27  
Old 07-08-2010, 01:25 PM
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The hose under the super charger is called the "Throttle Body Coolant Return Hose" Jaguar Part #AJ8-9746 About $18

It is NOT a easy hose to find in the Jaguar parts catalogs!!!
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.
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  #28  
Old 07-08-2010, 02:36 PM
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Too right! It got listed as "hose-heater" on that UK parts list I posted

And I couldn't find it at all in the Parts pdf whose URL I posted.
(Can't find various other things in there, either, such as the throttle body or the SC intercoolers.)
 
  #29  
Old 07-09-2010, 05:44 AM
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I'm slogging through this thread saw this tech tip and would like a further clarification of what you mean by slotting the very back mounting hole?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by BRUTAL
It is the hose under the super charger, and the one tip I can give if you DIY is this. when you take off the blower, slot the very back mounting hole so you can start that bolt and slip the blower in with the bolt already in. Its a royal pain to do if not
 
  #30  
Old 07-09-2010, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tbird6
The hose under the super charger is called the "Throttle Body Coolant Return Hose" Jaguar Part #AJ8-9746 About $18

It is NOT a easy hose to find in the Jaguar parts catalogs!!!
.
.
.
I've never even touched one of these cars but I reconize the problem and have dealt with a similar issue on another car. It had even more GD hoses under the intake manifod including a pair of return coolant flows from turbochargers. I don't know what else is under there and If that hose from the engine shot is any indication then it looks like this is a torturted route for that hose. I'd suspect chaffing, poor quality hose or crummy oem clamps as the culprits.

Ordinary SS hose clamps may be too bulky so you might want to get yourself a bag of those SS crimp-on style clamps and the tool for installing them. Use some silicone grease on the fittings.

I'd look for some of that woven nylon slid-over covering that you see on some radiator hoses where chafing is a worry. Maybe that could work here?

If you can take the time you might want to look at re-engineering this to use silicone heater hose. I don't know if that's feasable but I did it on one of my cars a long time ago and 20 years later it's still just fine. I used a combo of copper tubing and silicone hose to end up with a zero interference fit and high quality hose.

God I hope my STR won't need this repair.

Is there an easy proceedure in the PPI that a Jag dealer can do to check for this one so that I don't get stuck?

Bob S.
 
  #31  
Old 07-09-2010, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Staatsof
I'm slogging through this thread saw this tech tip and would like a further clarification of what you mean by slotting the very back mounting hole?
I think he will mean cutting a slot in the SC rear mounting hole. You can screw the bolt part way into the engine, then the SC slot will allow you to get the SC into position before you tighten the bolt. The other SC mounting(s) will (presumably) stop it coming out of the back mounting.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 07-09-2010 at 06:31 AM.
  #32  
Old 07-09-2010, 01:34 PM
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Here are two pictures with labels to show what Brutal was talking about. Slot out the back mounting hole so you can install the bolt THEN slide the supercharger in place. Below are two pictures with arrows showing what to slot.
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Attached Thumbnails 4.2 Coolant Leak From Back of Motor..-supercharger-bottom-front-view.jpg   4.2 Coolant Leak From Back of Motor..-2003-s-type-r-engine-supercharger-inlet.jpg  
  #33  
Old 07-09-2010, 02:33 PM
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Thanks.

Bob S.
 
  #34  
Old 07-09-2010, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by staatsof
i've never even touched one of these cars but i reconize the problem and have dealt with a similar issue on another car. It had even more gd hoses under the intake manifod including a pair of return coolant flows from turbochargers. I don't know what else is under there and if that hose from the engine shot is any indication then it looks like this is a torturted route for that hose. I'd suspect chaffing, poor quality hose or crummy oem clamps as the culprits.

Ordinary ss hose clamps may be too bulky so you might want to get yourself a bag of those ss crimp-on style clamps and the tool for installing them. Use some silicone grease on the fittings.

I'd look for some of that woven nylon slid-over covering that you see on some radiator hoses where chafing is a worry. Maybe that could work here?

If you can take the time you might want to look at re-engineering this to use silicone heater hose. I don't know if that's feasable but i did it on one of my cars a long time ago and 20 years later it's still just fine. I used a combo of copper tubing and silicone hose to end up with a zero interference fit and high quality hose.

God i hope my str won't need this repair.

Is there an easy proceedure in the ppi that a jag dealer can do to check for this one so that i don't get stuck?

Bob s.
suspect that it under a hot blower, no air flow and gets heat soaked.
And on the last question, no theres no way to see it and inspect it. If its not leaking........
On other posts for the slot and bolt, tighten that bolt after you slip the blower under it. The tip is to keep you from getting frustrating trying get the bolt started and screwed down enough to even start tightening it.
 
  #35  
Old 07-09-2010, 08:52 PM
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So you are suspecting that the hose fails due to heat?

Not good. Strong grounds for a silicone hose substitution.


Bob S.
 
  #36  
Old 07-09-2010, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Staatsof
So you are suspecting that the hose fails due to heat?

Not good. Strong grounds for a silicone hose substitution.


Bob S.
yeah plastic and rubber go away much faster with heat. yes silicone would be great, but for Gods sake do something else besides the hose. Port the blower, smaller pulley etc,,,,,"BUt Honey I HAVE to fix it, its starting to leak"
 
  #37  
Old 07-10-2010, 01:12 AM
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"Do something else" - LOL

He is doing
 
  #38  
Old 07-10-2010, 04:15 AM
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Most owners are not going to dive in and do this themselves. Frankly, I've done so much of this stuff by now that I'm not interested in doing it either. I have hobby cars this one is supposed to be for reliable driving. I try to only do basic stuff on the newer cars for a lot of reasons but one is certainly because they're a lot harder to work on. It sounds like a fair size project involving lots of dis-assembly, cleaning/prep and then careful reassembly.

This would appear to be the proverbial Achilles heel of this car, not quite as bad as those earlier issues with the 4L motor I've read about. It just really irks me that dumb stuff like this happens. I had an issue with plastic cam timing chain guides on my Infiniti Q45 going out at near 100K. That almost sawed the oil pump in half. Otherwise that was a fantastic engine. Fifteen years ahead of this one. What the hell is wrong with all of these engineers?

So the hose in question also involves a portion that's plastic?

Has anyone thought about taking a brand new one and having one of those companies that makes the performance silicone hoses just build a replacement piece or has Jaguar already "engineered" a better replacement part? Could it fit the other models out there as well?

Bob S.


Originally Posted by BRUTAL
yeah plastic and rubber go away much faster with heat. yes silicone would be great, but for Gods sake do something else besides the hose. Port the blower, smaller pulley etc,,,,,"BUt Honey I HAVE to fix it, its starting to leak"
 
  #39  
Old 07-10-2010, 05:14 AM
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I think it's the coolant hose back from the TB (throttle body). If so, only some models would need it i.e. those with the TB at the back of the engine. It's at the front on most, I think

There's probably a similar hose on each of the SC jags.

I'm up for a better hose if someone finds one. If I have to do this job on my car, I'd sure hate to have to do it more than once.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 07-10-2010 at 05:17 AM.
  #40  
Old 07-10-2010, 05:28 AM
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yep, def the time to port/polish/pulley the blower while off.
 


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