So what causes the breakdown? Usage!

 

It has now become 1 of the first things we do for this issue on older S types, NO diag charge only a new switch labor and part.

 

The ignition switch failing would make sense to me in two points - one it is a where and tear part, and two it in my case seams to have gotten progressively worse (the battery draw down).
The battery has been load tested and verified ok.
I didn't get into it last night though, ans saw the suggestion of the switch failure possibilty this morning.
SOMETIMES, a part change ahead of PROPER diagnosis can be helpful - If it is not too hard to change, inexpensive part and likely culprit - As I kind of see here - I may just change the switch on speculation.
Thanks all
(also this might tie in well with the mentions of headlights flashing as some have reported).
PR

 

OK, I just put my meter in line now and set my iphone timer for 45 min.
The inrush was about 9.5 amps, then settled down around 4, and when I closed the trunk it is sitting steady now at about 2.75 amps.
There is a guy locally parting a 2000 S type, I may go grab his ignition switch, but I have to figure out how it comes out 1st. My JTIS system is not available as my windows 7 machine has never run it, and my Tablet XP doesn't have the files, they are at work......
Can't do much now until the timer goes....

Pete

 

That is the result of tonight's test.

Thinking about what to do next.....

Pete

 

Check your PM

 

70mA sounds within plausible figures - maybe a little higher than I'd expect but not by much. A battery will last a long time if that's all that's being drawn.

It doesn't rule out a bad switch (like Brutal said). It just wasn't bad at that 45min time.

 

I agree that 70mA is not that much.
I would expect that if the RECM or GECM were keeping the car 'ON' the current would continue to sit at that 2.75 amps thus draining the battery.
I even suspect that the ignition switch would cause more like a couple of amps.
I think I may look around, and or pull fuses for non critical items like sun visor lights, or am wondering as a type of the Factory cell phone.

hmmmmm

BTW, I had a visitor with an Iphone 4 and confirmed the interference is coming from the upper console, and found posts discussing the occupancy sensors and iphones noise cancellation being the cause.

PR

 

Well, from Friday night to Monday am - dead battery.
I guess I really am going to have to get into this.
For the time being I put a recording voltmeter on the battery so I can watch what is happening - granted not current, but should give me some indication of things.
The alternative is that I could also try to find somewhere to easily clip it onto the main circuit which the 4 relays in the trunk switch so I can see if that is staying at 12v constant.
I am wondering if the 70mA causes a slow decline then at some point of lowered voltage, other systems turn on and cascade the problem and increase the current. We'll see - may not report until after next weekend, as driving it daily seams to give it enough recovery to carry overnight.
Pete

 

Pete

Brutal has always been on target with his comments and suggestions and he suggested that the ignition has been a problem with the S-type. Have you looked into this?

 

I only went as far as looking up how to remove the switch ni the diagrams.
I agree, Brutal is a good source of info, AND that such a part is definitely a wear and tear item.
What might really be telling is if I clipped my recording voltmeter on a circuit which would be live if the switch were in this failed mode - I will have to look at the schematics and try to find one which is also easy to clip onto.
Pete

 

Just FYI from brutals stand point:


OEM Part #Price Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch
Without Lock
From VIN N13089
C2C25596 $54.00

With Lock
From VIN M98368
C2C25597 $229.00


Labor Information Skill Level B

Ignition Switch
Replace 30 minutes

 

you are exactly correct in that a slow drain once it reaches a certain point wakes all systems up and you end up with a fast decline. On the ignition switch, quit thinking how much it powers and their consumption for what they control. All you need is a ign feed to keep a module awake to creat a higher than normal ma draw. A module for the most part dont consume that much power(think of your pc in standby mode or hybernate) if its not powering a circuit you get low ma useage. But enough to slowly run down to a system wake up that takes you all the way down. I have been down this road several times before chasing crap that cant pin down and after another few people had put ign switches in and fixed cars. I did the same with mine and they too where fixed. The s type is the only car that we have a draw from ign switch but it has proven itself over and over a smart first repair and cheap with no diagnostic time to the customer. I just explain as i have you this may or may not be your fault, but it is so common that we recommend it. In other words this is a doctor saying let try this prescritption and see how your bloodwork goes in a few weeks.. You can keep chasing your tail on this or try something proven. We get a bad rap at a dealership many times cause we're thought to be nothing more than parts changers. Sometimes rightfully so. But that comes from warranty not payingus to diag each and every problem. Would you spend hours and hours diag a problem like this if you new you were gonna get a 1 hour only??? Most of our diag warranty time is .2/hr you have to be good and accurate to make money in a dealership or youll starve and get pushed out the door.
Also through repetition we know the issues over times with cars. This is where we blow indies out of the water. They charge less but have to diag there way to the problem that we already know that is an issue on that car and has been for years. We charge more, but get the diag right and dont have to charge much if any time to get there. Just the rnr time. Plus we work closely together to share info between 14 techs. I dont know of a indi shops that specialises in jags that has more than 2 or 3 techs if that.

 

Brutal, Thanks - I'm going to pick up a switch this afternoon and just change it.

I agree, proper diagnosis is best, HOWEVER by a combination of facts that it is a moving part /wear and tear, experience shows common failure, not too expensive, and not too difficult to change all adds up to simply changing it on speculation is fine in this case.

Pete

 

Pete,

Could you send me the old switch? I want to see the configuration and see if i can see the problem and document it.

 

Are they the same for all the cars? Got a/any part number(s) please?

 

I do not know Check this link for the phone # and ask for Ken.
http://www.motorcarsltd.com/

 

No theyre not the same and kens at 800-335-5238 ext 626 YOU WANT THE ELECTRICAL PART NOT THE BARREL. YOU KNOW BUT YOU HAVE TO BE SPECIFIC CAUSE THEYRE 2 SEPRATE PARTS

 

could this be an issue on my 2005 s type, just went to go for a drive and the battery is dead

 

pops is it the factory Jaguar battery still? If so I would bet its the age of the battery.