Boot Latch or Solenoid Not Working
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
Likes: 34
From: San Anselmo, CA, USA
Boot Latch or Solenoid Not Working
Does this sound like a replacement latch is indicated? Upon depressing the release button on the keyfob, the boot latch make a rapid sound like the solenoid is locking/unlockinghowever it does not release.If I pressthe fob while simultaneously pressing and lifting the boot lid button then I canopen the boot.It still makes the rapidlocking/unlocking sound. This is theonly way to open it currently.
And, sometimes it will not latch upon closing and I need to simultaneously press the fob while closing the boot lid. The fuse #59 in the boot fuse box looks fineso I am thinking that the latch mechanism is worn or maladjusted.
And, sometimes it will not latch upon closing and I need to simultaneously press the fob while closing the boot lid. The fuse #59 in the boot fuse box looks fineso I am thinking that the latch mechanism is worn or maladjusted.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 630
Likes: 133
From: Near Berlin Germany
If you scroll to stickies in this section you will be able to download a copy of the JTIS that will help you.
You must have electricity or the steering lock and passengers doors will not be operational as they are on the same fuse.
You must have electricity or the steering lock and passengers doors will not be operational as they are on the same fuse.
Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 55
Likes: 4
From: San Jose, CA USA
I had a boot latch fail 6 months ago. Trunk would not latch closed.
Once I got a new latch replacement from the dealer I could feel the problem with old vs new latch assy. The defective one sounded and felt like it had internal gear teeth missing (something grinding) in the mechanism while manually cycling the open/closed position with a screwdriver; this after disconnecting from mounting location and cable.
The first new latch lasted 2 whole cycles after installing then failed to latch closed. Smelled burning electronics somewhere in the trunk area and figured it must be the new latch.
Dealer ordered second new latch at no cost and this one has worked fine with no problems for 6 months. Latch cost was approx $102. Not sure part you need is same but mine used P/N XR856390 8C
Happy wrenching!
Once I got a new latch replacement from the dealer I could feel the problem with old vs new latch assy. The defective one sounded and felt like it had internal gear teeth missing (something grinding) in the mechanism while manually cycling the open/closed position with a screwdriver; this after disconnecting from mounting location and cable.
The first new latch lasted 2 whole cycles after installing then failed to latch closed. Smelled burning electronics somewhere in the trunk area and figured it must be the new latch.
Dealer ordered second new latch at no cost and this one has worked fine with no problems for 6 months. Latch cost was approx $102. Not sure part you need is same but mine used P/N XR856390 8C
Happy wrenching!
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
Likes: 34
From: San Anselmo, CA, USA
Ok so installed a new latch and problem is cured. Upon initial installation new latch did not work. I was bummed so took it out. Decided to exercise it by hand a few cycles then reinstall. And, then it worked!
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 3,361
From: home
I treat it the same way as the gas door solenoid. Keep them both greased with white Lithium grease and hopefully you won't have any more problems.
I read about the plastic pin problems on the gas door years ago and started spraying it once in a while. I am still on the factory release pin and the gas door release still works fine.
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I read about the plastic pin problems on the gas door years ago and started spraying it once in a while. I am still on the factory release pin and the gas door release still works fine.
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